Alright, So that could cause a PO300 code to pop up?

I believe if you had a timing belt issue then your engine would be history, the gt engine is an interference motor meaning if the belt breaks or skips teeth you need 6 new pistons and prolly 24 valves, just buy a new motor at that point. Let me do some checking on that code for you. ill post again in a few.

ok, read this here is the trouble tree you would follow. sorry for the long post but read through it.
Ignore the parts where it says click for figure cuz i cant include them. This is just a basic run down.
Also check that your cap and rotor on the distributor are good.


DTC P0300: RANDOM MISFIRE DETECTED

DTC Set Criteria

At least 5 seconds have passed since engine started. Engine speed is 500-6000 RPM (2.4L) or 440-6000 RPM (3.0L). Engine coolant temperature is more than 14°F (-10°C). Intake air temperature is more than 14°F (-10°C). Barometric pressure is more than 11 psi (76 kPa). Adaptive learning is complete for the vane which generates crankshaft position signal. Engine is running and there is no gear shifting, deceleration, sudden acceleration or A/C compressor switching occurring. Vehicle speed is 1.6 MPH or more. Throttle deviation is -59-59 millivolts per 10 milliseconds. Misfire is determined by change in angular velocity of Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor. Code will set if misfire occurred in 4 or more of last 200 revolutions when catalytic converter temperature is more than 1742°F (950°C) (severe misfire which will cause MIL to flash continuously). Also, code will set if misfire occurred in 20 or more of last 1000 revolutions.
Probable Causes

• Ignition system related part(s) failed.
• Poor CKP sensor signal.
• Incorrect air/fuel ratio.
• Low compression pressure.
• Timing belt jumped or teeth broken.
• EGR system failed.
• Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module (ECM/PCM) failed.


Diagnostic Procedures (3.0L)

1. Start engine and let idle. Using scan tool, check data list item No. 22 (crankshaft position sensor). Check waveform of CKP sensor pulse width by keeping engine speed constant. If CKP sensor pulse width is constant, go to next step. If CKP sensor pulse width is not constant, check CKP sensor circuit. See DTC P0335: CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION .
2. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn all accessories off. Increase engine speed to 2500 RPM. Using scan tool, check data list item No. 81 (long-term fuel compensation). At 2500 RPM in closed loop, fuel trim should be -12.5-12.5 percent. If fuel trim is as specified, go to next step. If fuel trim is not as specified, check fuel trim fault. See DTC P0171 OR P0174: SYSTEM TOO LEAN or DTC P0172 OR P0175: SYSTEM TOO RICH .
3. Using scan tool, check data list item No. 82 (short-term fuel compensation). At 2500 RPM in closed loop operation, fuel trim should be -25.0-25.0 percent. If fuel trim is as specified, go to next step. If fuel trim is not as specified, check fuel trim fault. See DTC P0171 OR P0174: SYSTEM TOO LEAN or DTC P0172 OR P0175: SYSTEM TOO RICH .
4. Remove spark plugs and connect to plug wire. Ground spark plug electrode and crank engine. If spark plug fires when engine is cranked, go to step 7 . If spark plug does not fire, go to next step.

NOTE:
DO NOT adjust gap on platinum plugs.
5. Check spark plug gap. Gap should be .039-.043" (1.0-1.1 mm). If problem exists, adjust gap orreplace plugs, then go to step 14 . If problem does not exist, go to next step.
6. Remove plug wires and measure resistance. Maximum resistance for each plug wire is 22 k/ohms. If any plug wire resistance is more than specified, replace appropriate plug wire, then go to step 14 . If plug wire resistances are okay, check ignition circuit. See IGNITION CHECKS in BASIC DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES article. If problem exists, repair as necessary. If problem does not exist, go to next step.
7. Disconnect left bank fuel injector connectors (fuel injectors No. 2, 4, and 6). Measure resistance between fuel injector connector terminals (component side). Disconnect right bank fuel injector 4-pin intermediate connector B-48. Measure resistance between fuel injector intermediate connector (component side) terminals No. 1 and 2 (fuel injector No. 1), No. 1 and 3 (fuel injector No. 3), and No. 1 and 4 (fuel injector No. 5). See Fig. 19 . Resistance should be 13-16 ohms at 68°F (20°C). If each resistance is as specified, go to step 9 . If fuel injector No. 2, 4 or6 resistance is not as specified, replace appropriate fuel injector(s), then go to step 14 . If fuel injector No. 1, 3 or5 resistance is not as specified, go to next step.
8. Remove intake manifold. Disconnect connector to fuel injector that failed previous step. Measure resistance between fuel injector connector terminals (component side). Resistance should be 13-16 ohms at 68°F (20°C). If resistance is as specified, repair wire between fuel injector and intermediate connector, install intake manifold and go to step 14 . If resistance is not as specified, replace fuel injector, install intake manifold and go to step 14 .
9. Check left bank fuel injector connectors and right bank fuel injector intermediate connector for loose, damaged or corroded terminals. If problem exists, repair connector, then go to step 14 . If problem does not exist, go to next step.
10. Disconnect ECM connector C-51 or PCM connector C-52. Check ECM connector C-51 or PCM connector C-52 for loose, damaged or corroded terminals. If problem exists, repair appropriate connector, then go to step 14 . If problem does not exist, go to next step.
11. Check for damage to wiring between fuel injectors and ECM/PCM. To check wiring between fuel injector intermediate connector and right bank fuel injectors, it will be necessary to remove intake manifold. If problem exists, repair as necessary, then go to step 14 . If problem does not exist, go to next step.
12. Check valve timing. See appropriate article in ENGINES. Check engine compression. See MECHANICAL INSPECTION under PRELIMINARY INSPECTION & ADJUSTMENTS in BASIC DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURES article. Check EGR system. See EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) under EMISSION SYSTEMS & SUB-SYSTEMS in SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING article. If problem exists, repair as necessary, then go to step 14 . If problem does not exist, go to next step.
13. Replace all fuel injectors. Test drive vehicle following OBD-II drive cycle other monitor pattern. See OTHER MONITOR under OBD-II DRIVE CYCLES under VERIFYING REPAIRS. Check for DTCs. If DTC P0300 is output, replace ECM/PCM, then go to next step. If DTC P0300 is not output, inspection is complete.
14. Test drive vehicle following OBD-II drive cycle other monitor pattern. See OTHER MONITOR under OBD-II DRIVE CYCLES under VERIFYING REPAIRS. Check for DTCs. If DTC P0300 is output, retry diagnostic procedure. If DTC P0300 is not output, inspection is complete.

Alright ill give it a shot, it is a bit lengthy but could help with my problem, thanks Gvieweclipse

Also when i got on the gas this morning coming to work it made a screathing nosie, just thought that that could be pointing to something

If i were to take a shot in the dark, i would pay close attention to the distributor...just something in the back of my mind keeps telling me that. Take a good look at it. Ill ask around the shop cuz it just seems like a problem we ran into a year or so ago...

Just talked to the shop guy and said:
Screach coming from distributor = bad/worn out bushings = possible random misfires. meaning get a distributor and try it out.
Or take it to someone who knows what they are doing... hope this will solve the issue. Good luck and let me know how it turns out.

Alright thanks, i have someone look at it when i get the chance and ill get back on here and tell the results

you can also get your injectors professionally cleaned. I don't mean put that crap in the gas tank, i mean actually get the machine hooked up to them.

Well it's not the timing belt, Still have not had the Distrubuter looked at but have no money to do so.. Going to check the PCV today and make sure that it is cleaned and working properly

save up the money and have the distributor looked at.

Thats what I'm thinking it is i just got done checking the PCV valve and it was functional so the only other thing im guessing it could be is the distributor and or plugs and wires

Well I got it going in on Friday to a local tuner shop called Baily's Hyperformance so they will take care of it :banana:

I don't think you need to go see a "tunner" shop. Just a everyday independent would be fine. Ask some people you know for any recommendations.

Well all the “everyday independent shops” like to price gouge around here i.e. when I paid for my tune up just 6 months ago I paid close to 2 grand.. Plus every shop that I have called within the last week charge minimum of $60-135 dollars just to look at it..No thanks..So I’m going to take it to this Tuner shop on Friday, and remove the intake manifold and look at anything that is causing this problem for $35. Plus I want to get some suspension work done soon, so best to try them out now…