How To for people without fancy tools.
Tested and performed on the 2008 Lancer (manual transmission).

First and most of all, look at the instructions that came with you pulley, read them thoroughly and understand what you are doing before you read this How To. You can use this at YOUR OWN RISK. I recommend you get a professional to install the pulley for you – I take NO RESPONSIBILITY for anything that goes wrong with you or your car while you’re installing this part or thereafter.

1. Remove the passenger side wheel.
2. Remove the lower part of the plastic shielding (there are a few clip in fasteners on top of the shielding as well as at the bottom – a small flat screwdriver works well)


3. Pop your hood open, locate the Radiator Coolant reservoir. There is only one screw holding it in place, remove that. Now you can twist the reservoir and put it somewhere to the side to gain access to the tensioning pulley from the top (it’s easier that way if you have a shorter tool – no crack a$$ jokes :P ).


4. Get someone to use a wrench (or whatever you got) and pull/push/yank it towards the front of the car as much as possible (it takes a bit of strength).


5. Slip under the car while the tension is taken off the timing belt. Slip the timing belt off the crank pulley and let it loose to the side. I suggest you use thick protective gloves while you’re doing this in case the tension pulley snaps back and yer fingurs are in the way.

6. Now that you have the timing belt off you can get your poor friend (who’s arm is probably falling off by now) to let go of the tension pulley. Now it’s time to crank the crank pulley off. First of all you will need to secure the pulley so it doesn’t spin while you’re unscrewing it. If you have a tool to hold it in place, use it. If you don’t (like me) get a crow bar or something that tough, wrap it in a cloth (to avoid doing damage to any of the parts), shove it into any of the crank pulley openings and get your helper to hold the pulley in place while you are sweating you’re a$$ off trying to get the pulley loose. Once you get the bolt out just yank the pulley straight out – it should come out no problem. Look at the picture for directions to twist in.


7. So lets say you got the pulley off. Follow the directions on your manual that came with the pulley to know what to clean, what to lubricate etc.

8. Now that you are absolutely confident that you know what you’ve gotten yourself into, install the RRM pulley. Use the same instructions as getting the old one off – obviously in reverse, DUH! Put a lot of power into getting the bolt back on properly. If you don’t have a torque wrench (like me) just eye-fak-it and secure it the best you can. If you have it too loose it might leak, if you got it too tight you might rip the threads and then you’re pooched. Good luck.

9. Now get your friend to relieve the tension again so you can slip the belt back onto the pulley. Once you get it make sure the belt is aligned properly on the other pulleys. One more thing, there is a little notch on the pulley (probably in the front). Just above the pulley to the right (if you’re looking at it straight and the front end of the car is to your right) there is a marker with 1 0 1 on it. Set the notch to be aligned with 0. Done.

10. Put the coolant reservoir back on. Check to make sure the belt is inline with everything and go start your car… now come back… inspect the belt and the crank pulley visually to ensure everything is bolted on and aligned properly. You might notice a slightly different sound coming from the crank shaft (or wherever it’s actually coming from). Don’t worry, it should go away. Put your poor car together and go drive around a bit. Stop and check every now and then to make sure everything is still in place. Every so often check the pulley for leaks and that it's still tight and secure until you get sick of it and accept the fact that you probably installed it correctly.

Have fun and good luck!



NOTE: There is a little pin that holds the crank pulley in place, it fits in the groove on the inside of the pulley. Be CAREFUL when removing and especially when installing the new pulley. The pin has potential to pop out, don't let it drop! Mine dropped but got stuck on something and didn't fall into the oil pan so I was able to fish it out. If you lose that thing in there you might have to remove the entire oil pan to get it out - NOT FUN.

+100

Notion to sticky.

to get the pully off i used a airgun ... and to loosen the tension to get it back on .. make sure you havea big ( 22 or 24 i dont remember ) wrench .. i dident have a big one so we used a "cheater" put a thick meatal tube around the wrench to give your maxxxxxxxx power! extreme!!!!! and try leaving the belt on there ... mine fell off and it was like a maze to put it back on all the pullys

o ya and to loosen the belt .. i turned the pully the other way ... worked for me .. maby im wrong tho .. but it worked .. and nothing was harmed .. i dont know .. do what he says so you dont blame me

Another way to loosen the crank pulley bolt is to crank the engine with the wrench hard up against some solid part of the car. The direction of rotation will loosen the bolt and the started has enough guts to do the job.

Make sure you pull the plug leads off as you don't want it to fire, just crank and loosen the bolt.

A lot of mechanics use this method as well

Mick

Interesting.
I wish I would have known about this, I'd try it for sure!

But the pulley only turns in one direction, would this work for putting it back on? And doesn't the pulley need to be torqued to spec?

Yes in theory and all practicality it should to torqued to spec.

So what is it supposed to be torqued to then?

The pulley turns both counterclockwise and clockwise.

FooFighter: needs to be torqued to 155 ft-lbs or 210 N-m.