Yep, it's goldfarb. Very nice people as far as I can tell. I haven't bought anything yet, just spoke over the phone. But since you had a good experience I will definately buy from them. I was hoping I could find someone that could recommend them before I bought.

will they know the difference between the two h1c's when I call to order?

There are times I think I log too much data and I have to clean everything off except what i'm looking for. But i guess you can never have too much data. The only thing I have trouble figuring out is the VE table and maf clamp but I haven't flowed enough air or have any boost leaks for the need to make major corrections.

I'm still trying to figure this car out, only bought it 3 months ago and sorted through all the boost leaks and previous owner errors. I have been in touch with the most recent owner who says he found a ton of receipts in the glove box when he bought it but no longer has them. I haven't found the guy that had it before him yet though to see what was done. But I can confirm a new head and idles like 272's(no vacuum leaks) but I haven't taken the valve cover off yet to measure the lobes. The bottom end was also worked on but I don't want to drop the oil pan to look inside unless I have to because I live in an apt complex for now. you wouldn't happen to know a way I could see inside without dropping the pan do you? I really don't want to do that in a parking lot nor do I want to spend $300 on a video stick endoscope.

the stock 7-bolt definately will eat itself apart, that's why I'm looking into a turbo that would act like a 16g until I had the chance to inspect the bottom end or build it. When I do finally build it....I don't usually mess around with things I may need to replace later. the magnus dsm catalog will be supplying most (if not all) the parts and I will be pulling out my grinder to make clearance for the rods :grin:


+1,000,000 :banana: the only smell that can come close to being as good as a machine shop is c16 mixed with tires burning through VHT

I know of no way to see the rods/caps but to drop the pan :( sorry.


Well, the big h1c has a 54mm compressor inducer and has the webbing for the map width enhancement groove, but no groove. The small h1c has a 44mm inducer and no webbing. The Wh1c has a wastegate, 54mm inducer, the webbing and the groove. They are rare, only in 1994 trucks. And some REALLY rare Wh1c turbos have the 56mm hx35 wheel in them which flows 3lb/min more than the 54mm wheel. But I wouldn't worry so much about that. Just don't get the small h1c. The 54mm wheel flows about 50lb/min.

i'm a nooob with it comes to turbos..

but is this turbo the H1C Hx35

there from a cummings

most trucks dont go over 3500 rpms

are they turbos safe at the upper rpms?

are they built to spin that fast?

The 5.9l cummins has the h1c or the hx35 or the hy35. All these require 30 psi by 1200rpms, since the redline is so early.

5.9L at 1200rpms equals the same volume flow as a 2.0L motor at 3500rpms since a four stroke at the same VE flows 1/2 the volume of its displacement at its rpm.

Exhaust gases from diesel motors are slower and colder: both contribute to lag. So the holset turbine, being built for diesel applications, is designed to move lots of mass at slow speeds and cold. This means that the turbine is more efficient when hotter gasoline exhaust gases are used. Since the turbo is required to spool as fast as you would want it on the street (at 3500rpms) with slow and cold gas, hot fast gasoline exhaust will propel the turbine faster and at higher flow.

Bottem line, whatever works on a diesel turbine wheel, works better on a gasoline turbine wheel. This is why I say that a Holset has the best turbine wheel out there. . .And a Borg-Warner has the best compressor wheel out there. Holset ONLY deals with diesel engines (two and four stroke). They know how to build the BEST turbine wheel: one that extracts the most work from the exhaust gases. This leads to faster spool since the work is extracted earlier to do work on the compressor. And this leads to more flow, since more exhaust gases can be wastegated or not used because less work is needed to keep a compressor flowing at it's peak work needed.

i'm guessing you could get these pretty cheap to?
theres tons of cummings on the road

compared to like a brand new 20g(price wise)

More like less than half with an external gate setup too :P

damn..

you must have one hell of a built motor to be running 25? pounds!

ever have it dyno'd?


what rpm's do you start to get in boost?

what rpm are you at full boost?

Thanks :beer:

do you have any specs on a H2c? From what I can find it just seems to be an older version of the hx40. If thats true then I will stick with the h1c but.....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-p...256-review.html

that 256 still calls to me for some reason

The h1e is the old hx40. It has the 58mm 8-blade compressor. It flows 55-57 lb/min close to a 60-1.

With the bep housing (.55 a/r), it spools to full boost by 4K with 272s. The small .55 a/r bep housing with the hx4/h1e turbine wheel has put down 653whp with more left. The 8-blade h1e or 8-blade hx40 is good for 550whp you cant go wrong with that if you want that much. And it will be easier to reach 500whp with pump gas with such a turbo. The 6-blade or 7-blade super 40 60mm inducer compressor hx40 spools identical to this but with it's hx40 turbine wheel flows as much as the gt4088r ;) .

The s256 has a great map and has delivered some beautiful results, from my research.

greenydsm, The h1c reaches full boost as fast as my small 16g did with the IDENTICAL setup, down to the water injection nozzle sizes. I'm running a stock 6-bolt block and don't plan on changing. It is plenty for 450-500whp. . .

stock 6 bolt, you seriuse?

Absolutely. The 6-bolt can handle 450+whp the 7-bolt can handle 400whp. These are 4g63 motors we're talking about here. They arn't famous for their wonderful flowing heads ;) . They are tough enough to get the job done. Where nearly all other 4-cylinders fail.

Just in case.......that's only the 4g63T. the N/A 4g63 definately won't get that high unless pistons are changed.

very true numbers though, the only other 4cyl i've ever had such a good experience was the 2.4L in the srt4. We made 474ftlbs of torque and 423whp with a slowboy baby kahuna. It might have been more but I can't find my dyno sheets

that's more my goal for the short term(turbo for 350whp and then after I build the engine turn some boost up and put down 650-700whp to start blowing up and replacing drivetrain parts). So I guess i'm going for the same one you just got, the H1E or HX40 with with the 60mm inducer. did you have a chance to install it yet?

Not for this season. I want to run a divided t4 manifold and the stock holset housing with my h1e next year perhaps with my 2.4 in the shed:). At least with a set of forged rods and pistons. But for now, this h1c is just too fun. I love it on the street. . .

this might be silly but do you know of anyone who makes a divided t3? even just the flange? I could have one waterjet cut but my buddy who works at a place like that is 4 hours away and I don't have any specs

You're going to run a divided t3 manifold for an hx35? Or arn't you going with an hx40? You can't reach your goal with an hx35. The hx40 99% of the time comes with a divided t4 inlet, not t3. There are some out there built by cummins as factory upgrades.

Here's a good source I've used for flanges and mandrel bends: Columbia River Mandrel Bending

If you use a garrett/IHI t3 inlet like the above, you will have to port match the inlet for a smooth transition.

whats good about the divided?

Also... :offtopic: I dont mean to be a thread-jacker but What is teh flange type for the MHI turbos and where can I get one? lol