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> Brand New Pistons Took A Crap, Apexi Safc?
Boosted_talon
post Sep 4 2008, 02:00 AM
Post #1


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Joined: 4-September 08
Member No.: 63,774
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Location: Wv
Drives: 98 Talon



I bought a 1998 talon that was knocking and wouldnt hold an idle....it has the 420a engine with a 16g hahn racecraft turbo kit, it has bigger injectors, and bigger fuel pump, front mount, stage 4 cams with ignition box, Apexi Safc un tuned with a software update from chrysler, Je pistons, rings with 8 : 1 compression, maybe like 4000 miles on them..... The compression test showed 190 in 1,3,4 but 2 was down to like 120. The knocking was in the 1st cylinder tho when i pulled the motor apart the pistons had big chips missing out of them, and scratched up on the sides and the block is trashed now. Only had 65,000 miles on it. Spun a rod bearing i guess. So i took the block outta my 98 eclipse auto and had it checked and bored .20 over then decked and bought wiesco pistons and eagle rods, the crank was turned for new main and rod bearings(clevite) with a cometic gasket and new head bolts, pretty much everything.............


What I am wondering i guess is if this car wasn't tuned and took a shit, and i rebuilt it for performance will it do it again BEFORE i get it tuned if i gotta drive like 200 miles just to find a dyno or what is the best thing I can do to save my block this time around
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dxt-cobra
post Sep 4 2008, 12:55 PM
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Location: usa
Drives: 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS



wow,maybe the first motor was built wrong,and in turn didn't last long.If you have this other motor built,then it should be ok.I wouldn't hotrod it or anything till its broke in.

im not to sure on the tuning,are you talking about the specs of timing ,etc that can be set by computer.that might be a good ?? for the shop building the motor.
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Boosted_talon
post Sep 4 2008, 01:07 PM
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Location: Wv
Drives: 98 Talon



The kid i bought it off of didnt know what was wrong but he did admit to 3rd gear burnouts and he had the boost completely up....the afc is out of tune so bad it wouldnt hold and idle until i did a sensor check...but i have to drive it to get it on a dyno and i dont know if its gonna fuck shit up again or what i can tune or turn down to get it there
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pwee05
post Sep 4 2008, 02:04 PM
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Bleeds black and gold
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Location: Lancaster, PA
Drives: 1996 Talon AWD. Built, but no longer drives: 1997 mitsubishi eclipse RS; 1990 Talon AWD; 1995 Talon AWD, 1997 Talon AWD. Seems like a pattern



you're best bet would be to let the wastegate hang open while you break it in for 500 miles. then change the oil, hook the wastegate back up and get it tuned. change oil after 1500 miles.

just to be clear we are unhooking the wastegate flapper, not the vacuum line

if it's externally wastegated completely remove the spring inside of it
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Boosted_talon
post Sep 6 2008, 05:30 PM
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Drives: 98 Talon



damnit bobby. im just not trying to rebuild the damn thing again... what should i set the cam retard and ignition box to
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pwee05
post Sep 9 2008, 08:55 AM
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Bleeds black and gold
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Group: Admin
Posts: 5,845
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Member No.: 19,248
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Location: Lancaster, PA
Drives: 1996 Talon AWD. Built, but no longer drives: 1997 mitsubishi eclipse RS; 1990 Talon AWD; 1995 Talon AWD, 1997 Talon AWD. Seems like a pattern



why would you retard the cam? what the hell is an ignition box?
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EMC 3000gt
post Sep 10 2008, 09:50 AM
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Location: Tri-State Area
Drives: 1992 3000 GT TT, 2004 Acura RSX Type - S



I'm saying this once and I'm not explaining it any further.


Get an AEM UEGO Wideband. Install it.

Read this link
http://members.cox.net/precisionimage/prec...nimage/SAFC.htm

Follow instructions.
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