I am looking at this for my rebuild kit: Crower connecting rods, Wisco8.8:1 pistons, Melling high volume oil pump, Clevite rod bearings, ACL main bearings, Airtex water pump, ARP head studs and main studs, HKS head gasket, complete Felpro gasket kit, and a reman crank.
After that, then comes an as yet undecided turbo kit + guages and electronics.

Wow! Thats sold as a kit? sounds pretty sick. Only wouldnt the 8:1 ratio hurt you without a turbo? I just rebuilt mine and plan to turbo it later,(broke now) but I installed the cheap-o pistons with stock compression. Later I'll have to swap'em out with some low comp. JE's.

Are you going turbo eventually? If so, I wouldn't go 8:1-8.5-1 as for the pistons. Would be better. If you are planning on staying N/A, then I wouldnt go any lower than 9:1 If I was to do a N/A build, then I would go either 10:1 or 11:1. You cna makes some nice power with that. Also try to pick up some ARP Rod studs as well. Everything else checks out to me. Good luck!

Yeah, I am going to turbo it eventually, but I am not going to be running the motor at all, untill the complete rebuild with all the stuff is done, and ready for install.
The "kit", i actually from cimotorsports.com. They have a "build your own rebuild kit" option on their website, and you can choose all kinds off different options. I am am also going to throw in some other stuff not mentioned like total seal rings, and coil-on-plug conversion, DSM link, etc. I don't even plan on being ready to stuf the motor in until next summer some time, so I have PLENTY of time to modify the buil as needed.
I am honestly looking for no more than 300 - 350whp. I think it was pwee or EMC3KGT that mentioned that having more than that in a FWD car was kind of pointless (weight distribution and such), and I have to say I agree.
The big thing is going to be finding cheap donor car. I could have picked up a 96 RS manual about two months ago for $400 (body damage with possible frame damage, and rod knock, but it ran), and now I am ind of kicking myself for not haing snatched it up, since it is gone now, towed to the wrecking yard, and all the Eclipses/Talons/Avengers in the "pull it yourself" wrecking yards, have already had the motors snatched. Too bad I don't have a 4G63, there were about five of those in Pick-N-Pull last weekend.
This may sound like a stupid question, but I need to ask it, even at the risk of lookng like a moron. I understand how a turbo works, that much I get no problem. But, I know there is a difference in sizes, being that, larger is not always, because of the time it takes to spool the turbo up (turbo lag, as I have always heard it refered to). I am far more interested in road racing than drag. Everybody always mentions using a 16b turbo (small to mid sized I gather) and I have heard of G42R as well (huge I take it?), but honestly, I know next to nothing about how to choose a proper turbo, for a specific application.
So, in short, does anybody have some advice on how to choose a turbo, for a specific applicationn or know of a place that could give me a good, in depth, from basic to advanced, tutorial on turbos?
I don't want to just throw a bunch of crap together, because somebody told me to do it that way, I actually want to know what the hell I am doing, instead of being jut a user. I would rather admit to me not knowing something, instead of acting like a dumb shit know it all.

To put it simple, for road racing, you are going to want a quick spooling turbo that still nets some decent power. The reason for this is that when you approach a turn, your rpms will drop, thus you will fall out of boost. You want the turbo to be able to get back into boost as you accellerate out of the turn as quick as possible.

This little guy will do just fine

http://treadstoneperformance.com/product.p...+quick+spool%21

Cool, thanks guys (My "car" book mark folder is rapidly filling up).
I know I am going to need some larger injectors, and was thinking of RC Engineering Peak and Hold Low resistance Fuel Injectors (550cc flow rate. horsepowerfreaks.com has them on clearance for $79 a piece), and a Walbro fuel pump with install kit (190LPH).
AND.... I think I found a donor car, a 1996 Dodge Avenger for $600. If it is still around in a couple of weeks I think I might pick it up.

EDIT: I bet I can work the guy lower, probably to $400 for the entire car, pull the motor, and sell the remainder to a junk yard for a couple hundred.

Update: The whole donor car thing isn't real going to work out so well. SOOOOOO......
I am looking at just getting a motor. I have been trying to find a place that just sells the block, since I am just going to rip out most, if not all, of the internals anyway.
I am goig to have to make some calls, but I may have found a place with a remaned short block for $786, shipping included. I am a litle unsure of the price though, and wether or not this kind of price is about average, or too high.
Anybody have any thoughts on this, or about the injectors and fuel pump?

since its reman'ed that's about right but you can find a nice used short block on forums like dsmtrader and stuff for MUCH cheaper.

where do you live?

i have an extra 420a

Don't forget to turn the boost wwaayy down while you're breaking in the engine. You want to put as little stress as possible on the internals during this period. :thumbsup:

That is a for sure.
Lowest boost for 500miess, then check every thing.

:grin: After that, crank it up and hold on tight!!!! :grin:

That's it...............
I am building this fucker in my living room, and stuffing it in, in the parkng lot. I don't care anymore. lol

Just out of curiosity, what's the deal with the 1GBOV's? It seems like everybody and their Gradmas dog uses those.
Is there something about them, that makes them kick ass?

you need high resistance (impedance) injectors. the low impedance ones are for 4g63 cars

the 1g bov can hold up to 30psi. and it's still pretty easy to find for cheap, thats why so many people are after them