Yeah no kidding. Drop kick yor friend. You don't NEED an amp to power coaxials or components, but running them without an amp won't produce much more than what stock did.

alpine idax100 reciever, xplode front + rear speakers w/ custom rear speaker mounts, mtx mono amp w/ 10" mtx sub in custom made mdf enclosure. life is goood.

actually i haven't tried the x100 receiver yet, been using a kenwood for the past 5 years but recently upgraded because i wanted to be able to plug in my ipod. will post pics of the setup later when I'm done. currently my car is all in pieces for a facelift.

ya my friend is a polack and i do drop kick him every now and then. he thinks he knows everything, but ive learned not to take his advice.

i have a question concerning amps. im looking at a few amps and my question is as follows: do all amps have components input? (because one im looking at doesnt look like it does) the amp i really want is the JL AUDIO 300/4 but might be just a tad out of my price range. its perfect though 75Wx4 @ 4ohms. nicest one i could find at that rating and i dont really need any higher i dont think.

If you want an opinion for subs, try and find the Menace Audio MA1207's. Prob never heard of them cuz they're made per order. They'll set you back 350 a piece, but I have yet to hear a louder 12 incher.

I have a set of KICKER l5's 2400 watts peak running each one off a 1,000 watt kicker amp, kicker tweeters, alpine speakers. then i kind of went overkill with the 3rd sub- JL audio and ran it off a 1600 watt SSL amp, (plus an eclipse head unit) better to overpower than it is to under power, but not too much. it bumps HARD.. i set off car alarms and the sort, but i never brag about it. I certainly don't ride around full bass, full blast, I want to keep my hearing until I'm 40. Car audio is one of my hobbies and loud music is something I enjoy. I also have a set of kicker comps that I'm selling for 250$ 1600 watts peak. More than enough power, but you will need to compensate with extra speakers+ tweeters so you don't drown out your music. car audio sounds like crap if you cant hear the music. I let my friend drive my Cadillac and he got a 200$ ticket for being stupid.. so if you do get a ground shaker, be considerate of neighborhoods where there's people that have to work. No one likes to hear UNC UNC UNC as they're trying to sleep :thumbsup:

ps. If you do have a audio system like mine, make sure you have the juice to power it.. usually buying more battery's adds more dead ones, make sure they're being charged as much juice that's being drawn, that means two alternators. and a 1-5 fared cap depending on you electrical needs or else you will be looking at a dead battery within a year.

I'm running a 20 farad mobile spec cap. To a bridged 2400 watt pyle amp. Running two of those impossible to find subs. With just one 90 amp alternator charging an optima 6 cell battery I never had problems with charging. Or thumping :laughing:

Not sure if you're still looking for answers, but I have a full JL system in mine. JL component 6.5's in the front, 6x9's in the back, JL W7 10" sub (not ported) with a Alpine 500Watt amp, and a JVC stereo. Cost about a grand in all.

I got my girl Pyle 500 watt 6x9's and 300watt 6.5 component for her sunfire and it beats pretty well, no sub, no new radio, no amp. About 100 bucks on amazon.

Little late, but I am throwing this in the Audio section.

reputable: yes
good: yes
Customer Service: horrible.
Look into "underground" Audio companies.
www.ficaraudio.com
www.dcsoundlab.com
for woofers
and brands like CDT, Diamond, Moral, Rainbow for mids/highs


You sir, need to hear a real system (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


depends on the person- many of the guys i bass race against are at least in their 30s


sounds like you are saying investing in a Head Unit over an amp- in this industry you get what you pay for and sooner or later you will get tired of the 15w HU power and enjoy the clarity, depth, and volume of a properly amplified setup.


x2 go infinity


might very well produce less than stock with the change in efficiency from stock to an aftermarket setup


plenty of other amps do that powe without the JL name brand markup


That looks pretty beefy- i like the Neo cylinder motor but i would like to see it beat a DD9918z


a Big 3 wiring upgrade and 20$ 1A trickle charger will give you a good strong battery bank even with a 60A alt and 1.5kw
Look into one High output alt to replace your stock, one good unit will power almost everything.


??????

btw the pyle amp is a good example!!
2400w peak at 16v @2ohm
1200w peak at 14v @2om
600wrms at 14v @4ohm
500w rms at @4ohm

good rough example how your "2.4kw" amp does a few hundred watts...


-Drew
www.youtube.com/eagle10s

Focal, Diamond, and Eclipse for highs
Infinity, alpine, and audiobahn for mids
OLD Blaupunkt, old Pioneer, new JL for lows

The W7 is one of the best subs on the market, and it is EXTREMELY efficient.

Head unit over amp is one of the smartest things to do. The signal you get from a stock unit suckz nutz. You need the better signal before you need the power, or all you will be doing is making the static louder.

Oh, and kicker sucks... REALLY SUCKS. Probably the most over-rated, over-priced company on the market other than BOSE. BOSE blows.

Aftermarket HU > Stock HU

and i would not consider the dub7 special at all, decent woofer but nothing special, ESPECIALLY for the price (DAMN!!!)
-Drew

A sub that can do about 2000RMS@1.5OHM(Yes, I know they are rated 1000rms) for 300 dollars is pretty damn special if you ask me. They are backed by lifetime warranty as long as you do not go into the danger zone(1500RMS for the 12w7), they offer 100% free replacement, they are stable at 1.5OHM. I challenge you to name a better sub for the price you pay.

so a JL W7 is stable at 1.5ohm?


you sir- dont ever need to speak about audio ever again. (ever!)

the woofer is not "stable" at anything. it has one or more coils that can be measured in DC for resistance or AC for impedance. These coils can be wired in either series or parallel to increase or decrease the net impedance of the circuit. YOUR AMPLIFIER is what determines the final impedance and depending on the type of amp and its build quality, protection circuits, and various other variables will tell you how low of an impedance you can go while being "Stable" The JL dub7 is a good woofer, but at $800+ it is a horrible choice. the 12 has a "danger level" of 1kw and the 13.5 at 1500w

Rating:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=9

Price:
http://www.shopatron.com/product/part_number=92112/1451.0

They're warranty policy i sub par as well!! no recones available, they don't even do in house recones! when a product has manufacturing defect they just replace the whole damn driver.

Learn a lil-

Subs:
www.ficaraudio.com

www.dcsoundlab.com

www.ddaudio.com


Amps:
www.diabloaudiotechnologies.com

www.sundownaudio.com

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
-Drew

(IMG:http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1205/lisenceplate.jpg)

-Drew

I am quite an authority on car audio for this forum, I have been doing it for many years now. Pro-Comp setups, Ama. setups, and those just for people wanting decent sound for a low price.




My information was wrong, it is the 13w7 that does 1.5ohm.
Either way, the woofer is stable at 1.5ohm. Meaning that you can run it at .75, 1.5ohm or 3ohm on it's voice coils. You can alter how many ohms a sub runs at by using a simple attenuator type switch, much like they make for people who play guitar. MSRP is $800+, you can order them from sites like sonicelectronix.com for $450 or less, I get them for $325 as a business owner, and usually sell them for $450-$500.


What more could you ask for? They pay for shipping both ways, they replace the entire sub, and they cover all kinds of damage.

I also cannot feel any emotion but sorrow for those who think DC and DD are good brands.

Sounds to me like you are the one who should learn.

:rofl:

You sir, can continue buying JL with pride then (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

and just one more time, woofers are not STABLE at anything they just have wiring options.

Dual 4 = 2 or 8
Dual 2 = 1 or 4
Dual .7 = .35 or 1.4

AMPS are stable at ohm loads.

i also wonder why there are rating differences? The motor, Former, Coil, Spiders are the same on both woofers power handling SHOULD be the same as well. i guess the extra mass from the cone is enough to gain another 500wrms before entering "danger"

Good woofer non the less. Just crappy price and service i guess.

honestly i'm just giving you crap. i spend all day being nice to people and getting taught by some mobile audio pros and its nice to get on a forum where i can just get mad and call people wrong.

JL sucks haha i dare you to buy a Fi Q or a DC lvl 4 (1/2 the price btw) and compare output and SQ
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/gunsmilie.gif)
-Drew

i my self prefer diamond auido subs been thru three sets of 12s not because of them blowing i just boughe the d312s first then bought 2 d612s now im running d912s very sinular to jlw7 s. They sound great but beat your interior apart.

Diamond is a very good company, but most stores are having problems stocking them right now.