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> Audio For My Eclipseee?
Rob
post Oct 3 2008, 06:23 PM
Post #21


You get nothing.
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QUOTE(jonbonazza @ Oct 3 2008, 06:30 AM)
Your friend is dumb. The amp is PART of the stero. you NEED an amp in order to run subs and coaxial and component speakers.
[right][snapback]211605[/snapback][/right]



Yeah no kidding. Drop kick yor friend. You don't NEED an amp to power coaxials or components, but running them without an amp won't produce much more than what stock did.
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stea1thviper
post Oct 3 2008, 06:53 PM
Post #22


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Drives: 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS



alpine idax100 reciever, xplode front + rear speakers w/ custom rear speaker mounts, mtx mono amp w/ 10" mtx sub in custom made mdf enclosure. life is goood.

actually i haven't tried the x100 receiver yet, been using a kenwood for the past 5 years but recently upgraded because i wanted to be able to plug in my ipod. will post pics of the setup later when I'm done. currently my car is all in pieces for a facelift.
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Ian32688
post Oct 4 2008, 07:01 AM
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QUOTE(Rob @ Oct 3 2008, 06:23 PM)
Yeah no kidding. Drop kick yor friend. You don't NEED an amp to power coaxials or components, but running them without an amp won't produce much more than what stock did.
[right][snapback]211861[/snapback][/right]


ya my friend is a polack and i do drop kick him every now and then. he thinks he knows everything, but ive learned not to take his advice.

i have a question concerning amps. im looking at a few amps and my question is as follows: do all amps have components input? (because one im looking at doesnt look like it does) the amp i really want is the JL AUDIO 300/4 but might be just a tad out of my price range. its perfect though 75Wx4 @ 4ohms. nicest one i could find at that rating and i dont really need any higher i dont think.
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dannwo1
post Oct 7 2008, 10:25 PM
Post #24


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If you want an opinion for subs, try and find the Menace Audio MA1207's. Prob never heard of them cuz they're made per order. They'll set you back 350 a piece, but I have yet to hear a louder 12 incher.
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Attached File  MA1207.gif ( 17.68K ) Number of downloads: 19
 
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97clipsee
post Oct 12 2008, 11:16 PM
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I have a set of KICKER l5's 2400 watts peak running each one off a 1,000 watt kicker amp, kicker tweeters, alpine speakers. then i kind of went overkill with the 3rd sub- JL audio and ran it off a 1600 watt SSL amp, (plus an eclipse head unit) better to overpower than it is to under power, but not too much. it bumps HARD.. i set off car alarms and the sort, but i never brag about it. I certainly don't ride around full bass, full blast, I want to keep my hearing until I'm 40. Car audio is one of my hobbies and loud music is something I enjoy. I also have a set of kicker comps that I'm selling for 250$ 1600 watts peak. More than enough power, but you will need to compensate with extra speakers+ tweeters so you don't drown out your music. car audio sounds like crap if you cant hear the music. I let my friend drive my Cadillac and he got a 200$ ticket for being stupid.. so if you do get a ground shaker, be considerate of neighborhoods where there's people that have to work. No one likes to hear UNC UNC UNC as they're trying to sleep :thumbsup:

ps. If you do have a audio system like mine, make sure you have the juice to power it.. usually buying more battery's adds more dead ones, make sure they're being charged as much juice that's being drawn, that means two alternators. and a 1-5 fared cap depending on you electrical needs or else you will be looking at a dead battery within a year.
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dannwo1
post Oct 17 2008, 07:21 PM
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I'm running a 20 farad mobile spec cap. To a bridged 2400 watt pyle amp. Running two of those impossible to find subs. With just one 90 amp alternator charging an optima 6 cell battery I never had problems with charging. Or thumping :laughing:
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