So, I picked up the Extension to the Owners Manual from the car for you, TurboMitsu. And made some investigation. Here you are with what I found out:

When I wrote, that I had 5W-30 in my car, it was info from the invoice for inspection last year before winter. I guess my service did insert wrong item in the invoice, but with the same price per L. As you will see in next rows, 5W-30 is a winter time oil for temperatures -25°C and lower, when used in T Outlander. That kind of oil is good for Scandinavian winter. :) After last inspection 3 weeks ago I don't know what oil was refilled for this summer season.

The extension brochure mentions (translated from czech):
***quotation start

Engine oil selection - vehicles equiped with turbocharger

(note: only picture marked as Turbo is present and I used this picture from other source)

First oil change
- Select engine oil with SAE viscosity parameter matching the expected ambient temperature, in which the vecicle will be operating.
- Select engine oil matching these classifications:
ACEA classification:
"For service A1, A2 or A3"
API classification:
"For service SG" or higher

Second and next oil change
Use synthetic engine oil matching these classifications:
- SAE viscosity:
SAE 10W-30 or 10W-40
-ACEA classification:
"For service A3-02"
-API classification:
"For service SG" or higher

NOTE:
- If you would not use specified type of engine oil, it could eventuate in engine damage.
- It is not recommended to use engine oil additives. They reduce efficiency of in oil allready present original additives. It coul eventuate in mechanical parts damage.

***end of quotation

I guess this will help you. Summarized, you should use:
- synthetic oil
- viscosity depending on the ambient temperature
- brand recommended by experts, or simple some premium brand

Guys,

does anyone of you have experience with changing spark-plugs for some racing / high performance type? If yes, is there any reasonable performance growth? What spark-plugs did you use?

In the Extension to the Owners Manual spark-plug type NGK IGR6A is mentioned. Is this some general specification or is it a mitsubishi part number?

Big Thank You !!! :thumbsup: ;) It is that I want. Most of the modern cars need 0w or 5W30 oil but in the Outlander it is not so good.

one more oil question If you can check this too in this book, what is the recommended oil for the gearbox, differential... and the oil change period for this and for the engine oil ?

i change my turbo cars' engine oil around 5.000 km.

Aaaaaaahh! I knew I had to write down this info as well and at once! ;)
I have to get that book out again, just give me some time.
Yes, there is info about transmission and differentials oil.

In the book, there is no info about what must be changed/refilled when. You know, it is book for users. The service knows what to do and when, owner must just know that he must visit service every period of KMs driven or time elapsed.

But I got this "inspections schedule" up to 120.000 km / 96 months.
I'll try to rewrite it into .XLS and provide. It is document created by Czech/Slovak Mitsubishi distributor, means following manufacturers instruction.
It is very curious for me, that air filter change is shceduled not till 45.000 km. Hmm...have to remove the factory airbox right after I get whole new exhaust (from turbo onward).

Rgds

Guys, please who can confirm one of these statements?:

1. Outlander Turbo does use an OPEN-LOOP ECU controlled boost control system.

2. Outlander Turbo does use a CLOSED-LOOP ECU controlled boost control system.

Please reply only if you are sure, you know the difference and best with posting the respected source as well.

Thanks

OK, here is the 2nd part of the Extension to the Owners Manual dealing with fluids/oils:

Recommended lubricants:

Brake and Clutch Fluid: DOT3 or DOT4

Steering servo fluid: ATF DEXRON III or DEXRON II

Manual Gearbox Oil: gearbox oil class API GL-4, SAE 75W-85 or 75W-90

Supplementary Transmission Oil: Hypoid transmission oil class API GL-5 SAE 90W

Rear differential oil: Hypoid transmission oil class API GL-5 or higher, above 10 °C SAE 90W, below 10 °C SAE 80W

I just don't know what the Supplementary transmission is and where in OutT it is.
Because this Extension to the Owners Manual is for Outlander 2.4L too, may be this item belongs to this model.

I change engine oil at every 7500km in the Outlander.
Kemo : Thank You the infos :thumbsup:

No cat in the Outlander :460: 3" Downpipe without cat and there is no big cat just a 3" resonated testpipe. The car pull harder through the rpm range but exspecially at high rev. nice !
The sound is not loud, bacuse the resonator I think... It can be louder with a simple pipe :-)
Yet it have no any O2 fix because the non electrical fixer has no space because there is the rear cardan-shaft... but the check engine lamp was no light up yet :-) I think I will need an electrical one.
The only problem is the downpipe it is very close to the crankcase cover...

Hello, quiet here for a long time,
I have been last week at a tuner in holland, and he removed both cats and change the program in the computer, now i have also more than 250 hp, and 350 nm torque. It is amazing what happen now. The car is completely different to drive. Power from 2500 rpm till 7500 rpm. the car sounds even better, like a rallycar but not to loud. I can advise everybody to make these changes!!!

What is it, EcuTek? Did they use some pre-designed map, some template? Or did they dyno-tunning like re-map, test, correct, re-map, test, correct....

Kemo, you can find more info under the Topic: enginetuning Sweden.

//TOJ