I have a 1998 Eagle Talon with the following setup for now

1998 Eagle Talon 420a

Stage 2 Hahn race craft Turbo Kit
JE Pistons 8:8:1 Compression, Crower I Beams Rods
Rebuilt Head
6 puck Clutch
Wilbro 225 Fuel Pump
270cc Injectors
Fidanza Cam Gears
020 bored over

I'am taking out the engine for a rebuild, I was running 6psi and I want to raise the boost safely to 12psi when I pick up pnp ms and a few other thing's as well should I keep the same compression ratio with the piston's or go up and also would 272/272 cam's be a good upgrade as well.

I've picked up my haynes manuel and a 420a overhaul manual as well, and I've tried searching and searching how can I get alot more room in my engine bay ?, as far as relocating alot of thing's. Thnx :beer:

Well the battery can go in the trunk. After that you can take off the battery mounts all the way down to the tranny. I took out my AC condenser (didn't work anyhow), all its hoses, the bracket that held it and the idler pulley. Youll have to get a shorter belt to run just around the harmonic balancer and the power steering pump to do this. Also you can take out the ac controller behind the pass. headlight. Other than that you can try to re route some wires. Take out the rest of the airbox and put the computer on the inner fender. I also disconnected my cruise controll and the cruise controll resivour. You can get an EGR block off kit and take that out too. Get a vaccum diagram to help you after half the components are gone.

thnx for the info and I'am gonna look up the diagram as well.

hold your horses speedy :P

why would you want to rebuild when you already have JE pistons and I-beam rods?????? your biggest problem is your injectors. get some 550cc's and spin that boost up. you could run 20psi on it right now if you had better fuel injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Not rly. 272's are big. For street applications, use 264/272

so true, well I'am getting the engine checked out while it's out I heard some bad knocking in the engine so it's best to have it looked at then go down the road and mess something up. :beer: militaryman where u stationed at?, iam at fort knox :banana:

you ever thought about your fuel system? how you going to manage your air/fuel flow?

I've already thought about that, I know when raising the boost I need a way to fuel it :grin:

Get an afpr and 550cc injectors out of your wilbro fuel pump. Don't really need the cams, the stock head flows good enough for 400hp. You got great internals and just might have to replace some bearings to take care of the knock.

do I need to go ahead and take out the engine to check it out>?, stupid question but hey might as well ask

If you're taking it out to check for knock then you're wasting your time. Knock can be caused by something as simple as the fuel that you use. With a turbo if you use fuel lower than 89 sometimes lower than 91 you will have a preignition knock. NA engines act the same way but they can use a slightly lower octane rating.

I always use 93 allllll the time, I figure it's best to do this now than have more problem's.

You can run the engine and kill the spark to one of the four cilinders and listen if the knock goes away. Since all the load on the internals happens on the power stroke, causing the knock, you can narrow down which cilinder has the problem. I've used this on V8's with three other running mates, but I don't know is a 4 banger will keep itself chugging with just one.

alright I'am gonna give that a try, now this is my first time dealing with taking out this engine I've gotten everything labeled down, my question is can I take out the block while leaving in the transmission??.

And you've guy's been pretty helpful :grin: :gunsmilie:

It'll look like you can, but you can't. Just drop the tranny out with the engine through the bottom. You'll have to pull out your axles and undo your lower balljoints, so you won't have wheels on it either. Get it as high in the air as you safely can and put all kinds of jackstands and supports under it. But most importantly take your time.

yes you can easily take the engine out without removing the trans.

When I trird it I had about 1.5"of clearance between the engine and the passenger subframe rail. I couldn't pull the engine over to the left enough to get it away from the tranny. And I couldn't reach half of the bellhousing bolts. It might be possible to take it out seprately, but I thin