The stealership wants $175 for a spare key. I had a plain key made but of coures the engine will not stay running without the chip. Is there a way to bypass the security system (nobody going to steal this car)? I only have one key and if I lose that one I don't know what would happen.
Roger

Its not really just teh security. The immobilizer system is tied into the ECU . Unlike other systems that disable the starter , this one kills the fuel injectors and upon each key cycle then cancels the fuel pump and ignition system to disable engine start.

The key has an ionized sensor in the key fob , that reacts to the hall effect sensor in the ignition tumbler

Thanx for the reply, learn something new all the time.
Is there another way around paying the $175 for a key?
Roger

Not really that i kno of ways around it. The main fob at the dealer , which is sdet to match yur ignition lock cylinder hall effect frequincy , and also has to be cut by the dealer according to the VIN of the vehicle with its corresponding ignition lock cylinder tumbler layout of the VIN.

As for obtaining a key outside of the dealership i am unaware of . Getting the key cut to match yur original key would not be an issue as for yu can just take the new aquired fob/key that wil have the correct hall effect pattern to match the ignition cylinder to any place that cuts keys if yu still have the original non working key.

Problem is , where would one be able to obtain a key specific to yur lock cylinder and immobilizer unit.

Yu may try a professional locksmith , that does lots of automotive keys , as in VATS, and PASS KEY chipped keys on older general motors and other ionized/chipped etc keys. Hard to say cause they may just get the key frum the dealer and cut it themselves. Its hard to say. And yull still end up paying if not close to the dealer cost more

I am assuming that you still have one working transponder key. In that case, you can disable the system by hiding the key under the dash and using regular keys...

It doesnt work that way. Not with the ionized key , he has to use the key. Its not like the later units as of 2007 up. If he does not use the corresponding key with the ignition tumbler when turning the ignition it wont start.

Well, that sure sounds sophisticated (almost too sophisticated for a Mitsu (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ). But ok, if this is the case, wouldn’t a copy(s) of the hidden key work as well?

Its not "too sophisticated " for Mitsubishi, maybe just for yu. A copy of the original ionized key wont start the vehicle. Why do yu think the key costs so much. The ionized , (sum people call it a chipped key fob) But the key has to match that of the ig ition tumbler which as yu turn the ignition switch , the key produces a hall effect frequincy with the tumbler that has mo match that of the immobilizer unit , if it does the vehicle starts. So yu can make a copy of the original key , it woont start the car tho. And yu cannot hide the original key in the car cause yu need the frequency that the key produces in the tumbler to start the car

I tried that awhile ago and does not work.
I held the transponder key right next to the switch while I used a non transponder key to start the engine and the engine wouldn't stay running.
Thanx for the replies, I'll have to shell out the $175 for an F___ key!
Roger

Yeah thats why i am speaking frum experiance LoL. There is an ionized section of the key and inside the fob of the key. When yu are turning the ignition switch it creates a "hall effect" or electrical soundwave , that is picked up with the corresponding section on the outer section of the ignition lock cylinder tumbler , this hall effect signal must match that of the one in the immobilizer security.

Many Mitsubishi models had this type of immobilizer since 1996 , but mainly in asian markets and then in euro markets as of late 97. I have this same type of setup in my car. I could have dis sabled this setting when i retuned my PCM but i left it enabled as it is a feature i do like since i have dun lots fo work to my car