2001 mits eclipse v-3 gt 5speed

Bought car that does not start and no spark no fuel. Bought a used distributor and nothing works. I checked book to see if crankshaft sensor is bad but have no juice.
No check engine light at beggining during start up, and can't hook code reader to it because car will not connect.




What do u guys think and know?
PLease help?

looks like its pcm problem or connection somewhere.

What do you mean by, "will not connect." There should be a plug by the pedals on the driver's side underneath the dash, it should hook right in.

But could you elaborate more on what you mean by, "will not fit."

I meant that I can plug the diagnostic connector into the obd2 system but my pc keeps saying not connecting to car. It is like the ecm is not communicating at all. The check engine light on dash does not light up either when I turn the ignition switch. Then I check voltage to crank sensor and I get no vltage and the sensor has been changed already. I get negative voltage to my harness wires at the distributor.

Do you think my ecm is the problem?
or what symtoms does this appear to be? I tried tracing the wire from crank sensor Green\red wire and it just leads to ecm, therefore I think it is in the ecm.
Thanks
martin

if the OBD II tester won't connect, test and possibly replace your battery. if it still won't connect replace your ECM. i'v heard good things about car-parts.com for replacing stock parts. i have never used it, but i have heard good things.

my shop uses Auto Ecms

Never had an issue with any of their parts. We used em for enloaders all the way to lil pos VWs. Very friendly staff over the phone.

its got a brand new battery and fully charged, I just got a newer ecm to try and do not want to replace a part that is not the problem.

either put in a ECM or take it to a real shop and have it diagnosed. I don't wanna be harsh but you don't really have any other options.

Ok I am fairly mechanically\technically capable but I have to admit I am stumprd on this car and may take your advise.

I replaced the computer with a remanufactured one and gdet the same results, no check engine light nor power to my crankshaft pos sensor. I tore the interior apart looking for faulty wires in the ecm, ignition switch, and everything I can reach and find but nothing looks bad. I get power to the ecm on the black white wire but no results from ecm as far as I can check with my cheap volt meter. I am stumped and ready to take it to a professional.

I wish i could help you but this is beyond the forums, btw was the computer you bought programmed...if not then that may very well be the issue right now. You may also have a problem on the serial data line, which would cause your scanner not to connect to the computer.

check if your power wire from your battery has power to the ECU. it might just be that the power wire got fried. also make sure all the contact points are clean. pull the wire out and clean the battery terminals, then the connector under your fuse box, also their is a inline fuse that you can check that connects directly to your engine compartment fuse box, pull the little cap off and see if the fuse popped. other than that your going to have to take it to a shop.

The ecm I bought is supposely a remanufactured one with a 1-year warrantee, and is not a preprogrammed for performance just a stock replacement. I will check al my connections again. I checked the wire going to ecm and it has juice but other than that is the same. You were mentioning the fuses, the only fuseable links I see is under the hood at the relay stuff. I will start pulling each plug to clean each contact then as you have mentioned.

Is there other fuseable links other than that?

I am also wondering if the alarm is cutting me out or something?
or what does the alarm do when it is broken in to?

I will take it to the shop til I have exhausted all my efforts, by the way it is a pain to tow it again.

Where is this inline fuse?

Shyza i reversed the directions in my mind. its the power wire coming directly off of the battery. there is that inline fuse right next to the battery bro, my bad. now you'll probably never listen to me again lol oh well sorry.

wait wait wait, what happened to the car before you got it?.... are you using the correct keys? It is possible that the car locked its self out for various reasons, security, key codes not matching, attempt at being stolen. Security would prolly be the next place I would look. Search for how to relearn the car to the key. I do know from past experiences if the key resistance doesnt match the cylinder how it should, the alarm will lock it's self out.

what are you talking about??? i got a new master key for my car right after my wife had bought it because my wife lost the keys, with the newly cut key not programmed to the car i was able to turn the key to the on position and get power period. the loss of power he explained has to be a electrical malfunction, not an anti-theft device cut off. anti-theft devices in our little old Mitsubishi eclipse's aren't that sophisticated, what car company do you think this is a Lamborghini, or Ferrari?

it is probably the inline fuse from the battery, or the connection from the battery to the engine compartment fuse box, which is quite simple to test for, pull your ECU/ECM out and put a test light up to each contact point, if none of them light up, your power wire from your batter to your fuse box is toast!