Hey all, i have a leaking water pump. I got everything tore apart except the crank pulley. Its stuck good, i have tried putting it in gear, holding the cam sprocket and just hammering a wrench on. It wont budge. And i broke my timing belt. is there a tool made to hold the pulley maybe? im going to try and fill the cylinders with some nylon rope and try that out next if no one has a better idea.

Try using an air impact wrench, say something with like 650 ft lbs of torque, should spin it right out. I had the same problem on an Escort and ended up buying a 650 impact wrench at Harbor Freight Tools. It has been one of my better purchases.

Ron from NC

Yeah, i should probably break down and do that. How much was that bugger?

I was in a bind for time when I bought it and ended up paying full price of about $70. It went on sale a couple of weeks later for about $55. Prices are all over the map, I buy some tools from Harbor Freight Tools because I don't need top quality professional grade tools on some things, the Central Pneumatic brand from Harbor fits my needs. Ask around, someone may have one that you can borrow. That crank bolt is a bear to get off with hand tools, if you are not careful you can round off the shoulders on the bolt head and then you are screwed. On the Escort I was working on, we messed around all day trying to get the bolt off (the timing belt had broken). I ended up towing the car home 200 miles, when I put the impact wrench on the bolt it came out in less than a second. It makes a big difference when you have the right tool for the job.

Good luck!

is there anyway of getting a new timing belt on without taking the crank pulley off?

Do you think a 230 lbs impact would do?

Do you all know anything about the 1/2" earthquake impact?

for tight fit crank bolts i use the power bar hand impact wrench matco tools has one
Part#: PB70865
anything else i use my impact gun

what years have the same water pump as my 93 1.5?

Is that bugger reverse threaded?

The CRANK pulley? What does the cam sprocket and timing belt have to do with this? Just put the trans (assuming a manual) in top gear, set the handbrake and put a socket and breaker bar on it. If has gotten ridiculously tight (only goes on at abt 70 ft.lbs I think) and the clutch is old or oily it might slip and THEN you might have to resort to impact methods but why do so if you don't have to? Note: if no timing belt is in place be very careful rotating the engine with any force, as you will be doing here.

The crank pulley has a cast metal sleeve around the lower half attached to the engine that doesnt provide enough clearance to fit the new belt in. i have tried that and it is weathered on. The pistons dont have clearance machined in for an open valve do they? So, engine turns, valves destroyed?

I dont think the sleeve can be removed easily either.

If engine is out of car try wedging a piece of wood between flywheel and block somehow, maybe using a trans mount ear. FIAT had a tool that went in a trans bolt hole in the block that had teeth to engage and lock the flywheel that way for crank pulley r/r -- maybe Mitsubishi has a similar tool. The FIAT one I got 20 yrs ago was only abt. $10 or so. Or maybe you could just use a big screwdriver in one of the flywheel teeth, but this sounds so tight you might damage the flywheel that way--try wood first. Note if you used the timing belt and cam pulley bolt to try to loosen this crank nut you have now grossly overtightened that cam bolt (the torque delivered by the belt tension is doubled there by the larger sprocket) and that has to be loosened now somehow, too, if you ever want to replace the cam or seal.

The fiat tool sounds cool, do you know the part name or number perhaps? Thanks for all the help guys.

Alright, i got the bolt out of the used engine i bought via the wood between the flywheel+the hammer the ratchet ideal. it is raining, but when it clears up im going to try it on my old engine in the car.

Worked like a charm. thanks guys. I think i put the belt on a notch off though. she runs a little rough.

got it together, and started it. ran rough at first and than smoothed out in about 30-40 seconds. If i was off a tooth on the timing belt, it wouldn't be able to compensate and run rough constantly right?