Guys,

I got 2004 galant DE 4 cylinder. This weekend hopefully weather gonna be good i can replace fluid, filter on my transmission.

I made some research on how to change transmission and parts needed. If you have some comments or additional information i would be glad to hear about it.

Parts i buy:

1) ATF SPIII from dealer, i bought 10 bottles (10quarts)
2) Transmission Filter
3) Drain plug gasket

I'm also planning to buy a silicone adhesive gasket since the dealer told me that this is the type of gasket that mitsubishi used on my car model but its quite expensive from them.
Also, i think i need to buy the O-RING. Did i forget any parts to buy?

If you have done changing the fluid and filter of your transmission, please kindly give me advise.
Also, Planning to do this on street of new york queens.... is it possible or police will caught me?

Thank you and Best Regards,

sterling_silver

there is NO serviceable filter on your car.

all you need is trans fluid. SP3, and nothing else. Approximately 5 quarts.


you drain, and fill. thats it. simple, easy.

From the shop manual

TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE
If you have an transmission fluid changer, use this changer to
replace the transmission fluid. If you do not have an transmission
fluid changer, replace the transmission fluid by the following
procedure.

1. Disconnect the hose shown in the illustration which
connects the transaxle and the oil cooler (inside the
radiator). Place a container under the hose to collect the
discharge.

CAUTION
The engine should be stopped within one minute after it is
started. If all the transmission fluid has drained out before
then, the engine should be stopped at that point.

2. Start the engine and let the transmission fluid drain out.
(Running conditions: "N" range with engine idling)
Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts) of transmission
fluid should be removed.

3. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the transaxle case
to drain the transmission fluid.
Approximately 2.0 dm3 (2.1 quarts) of transmission
fluid should be removed.

4. Install the drain plug with a new gasket,and tighten it to the
specified torque.
Tightening torque: 32 ± 2 N⋅m (23 ± 2 ft-lb)

CAUTION
Stop pouring if the full volume of transmission fluid can
not be added.

5. Add new transmission fluid (DIAMOND ATF SP III) through
the oil filter tube.
Approximately 5.5 dm3 (5.8 quarts) of transmission
fluid should be added.

6. Repeat the procedure in Step 2. (to pump out the rest of the
contaminated transmission fluid)

7. Add new transmission fluid (DIAMOND ATF SP III) through
the oil filter tube.
Approximately 3.5 dm3 (3.7 quarts) of transmission
fluid should be added.

NOTE: Check for contamination or a burnt odor. If the trans-
mission fluid is still contaminated or burnt, repeat Steps 6
and 7 before proceeding to Step 8.

8. Reconnect the hose which was disconnected in step 1
above, and firmly replace the dipstick.

9. Start the engine and run it at idle for one to two minutes.

10.Move the selector lever through all positions, and then move
it to the "N" position.

11.Check that the transmission fluid level is at the "COLD"
mark on the dipstick. If the level is less than this, add
transmission fluid.

12.Drive the vehicle until the transmission fluid temperature
rises to the normal operating temperature [70 − 80°C (158 −
176°F)], and then check the transmission fluid level again.
The transmission fluid level must be at the "HOT" mark.

NOTE: The transmission fluid temperature is measured with
scan tool MB991958 (MUT-III sub assembly).

NOTE: The "COLD" level is for reference only; the "HOT"
level should be regarded as the standard level.

NOTE: If it takes some amount of time until the transmission
fluid reaches its normal operating temperature [70 − 80° C
(158 − 176° F)], check the transmission fluid level by refer-
ring to the left diagram.

13.When the transmission fluid is less than the specified level,
add transmission fluid.
When the transmission fluid is greater than the specified
level, drain the excess fluid through the drain plug to adjust
the transmission fluid to the specified level.

14.Firmly insert the dipstick into the oil filler tube.

If this is the first time doing the flush and you have high mileage on the car, I would suggest doing steps 2-6 twice. I have been flushing my transmission once a year due to the fact that there isn't a serviceable filter on these cars.

seriously..
just drain and fill. If you do it every 30k, the trans will last forever.

if you want a flush, just take it in and spend the 180 bucks. Its time and money well spent.

Do it right or don't do it at all. Why the hell put fresh tranny fluid in with contaminated fluid? That makes absolutely no sense. Why do it half-assed? Follow the instructions I posted above, provided by Mitsubishi, and it WILL last forever.

because there no such thing as "contaminated fluid" unless someone poured something other than trans fluid in it.

the ATF NEVER looses its ability to lubricate or transfer energy. All you need to do is replenish the additives, which are NOT fully depleted at 30k. And draining will get the majority of debris that may be suspended in the fluid out. Although MOST of the debris will be either on the magnet, in the filter membrane, or just stuck to random internal surfaces.

Plus (and this is a good plus), ive been fixing them for 17 years. All you need to do to make them last forever is a drain and fill every 30k. Thats it. Theres no reason to spend more than 5 minutes doing this.
mine has 230,000 miles on it. the fluid (never having been flushed) is bright pink and the trans shifts as good as when new.

i agree with manybrews drain and fill every 30 with no snakeoils added either
flush at 60 with mitsu fluid also
no other service needed imo (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif)

Sorry, but I have dealt with mechanics with 25+ years experience eff up my cars (or other people's cars). I have NEVER had someone recommend doing a half-assed job on maintenance to any car unless they are cheap or trying to bilk the customer out of money. Just do the job right or don't do it at all. A few more quarts of transmission fluid isn't going to break the bank.

and Ive been fixing mitsus for 17 years. And Im telling you that you're wasting time and money.
Are you hurting the car? No, of course not. But as I said, I have 230k on my original engine and trans. Still work PERFECTLY.

WoW........17years fixing Mitsu's?????? Must have alot of experience there. So what do you think about Mitsu's cars overall????

What model is your auto gearbox?????