Hey fellas, I am in need of doing a rear brake job on my 97 LS. I do not like to take my car to the shop to get ripped off. I was wondering if there was some write up of how to do the rears on the D. I must say that I'm a pretty good mechanic, so I should be able to tackle this job. I do all of my own work with the exception of water pumps and timing belts and trans jobs. I hope I can get some type of response on this one. Thanks in advance.

in the pinned section labeled "intake and induction" KiT TeUnG 2549 has added

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t39636-in...r-induction.htm

the rear brake "how to do" for your model in there

just takes a little searching brakes are about halfway through the pages

Chain,

I whacked a new set of brake pads (4) into the rear wheels of a TP Magna Sedan today. But I had to remove the hydraulic hose nut to be able to turn back the pistons. In the process, I now need a brake bleed.

Is there any info on how to bleed 1990 TP Magna sedan brakes? I realise I'll need to do all four, and have a bottle of Dot 4 with me.

Also, what about adjusting the handbrake lever. I mucked around with it today but didn't know when to stop turning the nut. I do have the centre console out.

Cheers

Curioso

apparently yu need a guide, yu do not adjust the hand brake at the center console. Yu should have inspected the handbrake shoes while whackin on those pads, and made adjustments which are at the "WHEELS". yu onlee make adjustments at the handbrake inside onlee when replacing the cable , or lever. Making adjustments inside and not at each individual wheel will apply too much cable pull on non loaded actuator and cause the bads to wear down fast and damage the adjusting coupling and components on the side taht did not need adjustment.

This is why each side has individual adjustments at the wheels. Thus even tho adjusting one side the cable at the handbrake inside will still apply that added force to that non adjusted cable.

bleed the brakes like any other normal car


for the TN and TP first gens only
the handbrake should be about 7 clicks of the rachet or less

apply handbrake then jack up the back wheels
and make sure both sides hold and release


note
the only cable adjustment is at the handbrake end on a pivot
the TN and TP calipers have the thread inside the piston to activate the discs to the rotor as a handbrake


2nd and third gen models rear brakes setups are different

Just got a friend to help me with the handbrake after I bled the brakes. Easiest way to bleed them is with a one-way valve at the end of a tube (brake bleeding kit) and a jar - no air can get back in the system. You don't even have to remove the roadwheels, but you need to jack it up a bit to get the clearance to see and turn the nipple, and a torch.

Anyway my friend engaged and disengaged the handbrake lever in and outside the car while I observed both left and right calipers using a torch (it's also dark in there). In an off position, there was around 4mm gap between the integral bump stops on the caliper and the handbrake lever bracket, which is within specifications (0 to 4mm).

My friend's theory was that I shouldn't tighten the handbrake adjusting nut inside the car (near the equaliser bar) too much or it would restrict free travel on the rear disc rotors. He thinks the first couple of inches should spin pretty easily. So I left the handbrake on the loose side of the normal spectrum. Of course, with four new rear brake pads, it only takes 5 or 6 clicks on the lever before the park brake is locked like Fort Knox.

Curioso

To stand corrected , unless the brake setup is different here , which i doubt , 89-92 Diamante Wagons , (86-91)Sigma Wagon , 89-90 Sigma and Diamante Sedan as well as my Galant VR4 , that did not have internal handbrake shoes in the rotor , still had to be adjusted at the caliper side. Where the cable attaches to the caliper back and goes to the locking lever , on the back end of the caliper , the adjustment is made there. The same reason applies , is , because if yu adjust it at the handbrake inside , (like i see guys do here) It causes their rear brake pads to wear down unevenly because the locking screw will hold pressure keeping the pad semi engaged , even if a little and cause that side to wear down faster than the other.

1991-1995 Diamante , Diamante Wagon , 1992 -on Galant , Emurade used parking brake shoes inside the rotors and seperate adjustment , to eleviate , the complicatedness of adjusting the handbrake feel as on older models.

And trust meeh , of yu have new pads and yu need to adjust yur handbrake , sumthins wrung with one of yur calipers. A likely guess is that the calipers may have been incorrectly reverted in at one time , most likely forced in , or the pads were used up til the piston came all the way out, stripping the chord thread on the guide section of the guide screw that compresses teh pads when yu apply the handbrake on this type of setup. This would be the onlee reasons a person would need to make an adjustment. Other than that , if the pads are full they should have no issue locking onto the rotor

Ultimately there is no grounds for adjustment as stated unless the cable is being replaced , hand brake lever being change/removed/replaced. if the caliper is functyioning correctly and the pad has adequate life , no adjustment should be needed at all. Most likely yu attempted to incorrectly get the rear caliper piston in , which damaged the internal component that actuates the handbrake function , so its not properly compressing the pads.

Firstly, here's what I've done with the handbrake setup recently.

I replaced one of the handbrake cables with a good one I found at a wreckers due to some distortion of the cable. It's held up well over the last 18 months its been there.

I bought reconditioning caliper kits and replaced all the rubbers and circlips in each rear caliper. The handbrake bracket/lever on the calipers (which holds the cable end) will seize if you don't change these rubbers and circlips and add rubber grease every probably 4 years or so. I've never changed the pistons though, and they've got some damage around the slots the pad fits into from screwdriver + hammer work to turn them.

The only reason I needed to adjust the handbrake via the adjusting nut was because I adjusted it a day before and wasn't sure if I was out of position. The reality was, as you said, I didn't need to adjust it. All I had to do was check that the cable releases on both sides, which it did, and that the lever engages after 5-7 clicks, which it did, and that the gap was 0-4mm which it was. So you are right there.

I seem to remember once adjusting the position of the handbrake cable's bracket (the one on the caliper with the spring) in relation to the caliper in order to improve the park brake's function. I think that works better than the adjusting nut inside the car, as you have also mentioned. That bracket on a 1990 TP Sedan is slotted though, so I don't know how much it can be adjusted, and may not need to be unless it comes off its slot.

I doubt I damaged the pistons because they both wound back into the calipers easily. Also, I didn't allow the pads to run out completely to metal. There was 1-2mm of pad left on each of the old 4. They've been on there for over two years, and due to being a very cheap set of pads, needed replacement a bit earlier than I hope the Ferodo XL's I put on there yesterday will. Of course, if I've overtightened the handbrake, that won't happen. I'll try to remember to check it in three months or so, but it's hard to tell unless you take the calipers off, which is not that hard so I guess I should do that. That would save me having to replace all four pads again prematurely, if they were overworn within three months.

The other reason for rapid pad wear on the car is worn rear disc rotors. They have a growing lip, due to internal wear, and some channels in the disc. They should be replaced with the next pad change. Two years ago they were over 10mm thick (well within legal limits) but now I can tell without measuring them with a vernier caliper that they have gone down further.

Then again, in regard to rapid pad wear, Ferodo only guarantee them for 24,000km. That's two years driving for me, and that's what I got out of the last pads, that weren't even Ferodo. So my setup can't be too bad with regard to disc rotor thickness and handbrake tension, or they wouldn't have lasted that long.

There is one thing though I would like to confirm. The manual says the clearance should be 0 to 4 mm, which is obviously the clearance from the bracket (or the stub of it that juts out) to the caliper's integral stop. Does this mean that if the clearance is 0mm (i.e. the bracket is hard up against the integral stop when the park brake is off) that the park brake would be in it's loosest allowable position? There would be no looser possiblity, due to that integral stop. It seems like this would be the case because the manufacturers would be legally bound to incorporate a design feature in the rear calipers that would prevent the handbrake from falling into a completely useless state. If this is a case, I'm a good 4mm off that stop, so I'm actually on the tight and not the loose end of handbrake tension, hence threatening accelerated pad wear?

If that is the "tight" position of the park brake, it's very loose. I can go over 7 clicks on it. The "loose" position would be crazy, in that case (12 clicks??) and any tighter position would be out of specifications (greater than 4mm gap).

Just a sidenote: for those of you who think all this brake talk is serious stuff, rear brakes (shoes or discs) are nothing on a front wheel drive. The real action is the front disc brakes. Make a mistake with them and you're life is at stake. The rears don't do a lot of work on a front wheel drive, but you have to change the pads as a set of four when you hear that faintest beginning of metal-to-metal grinding sound, which I did start to get, or wouldn't even be doing this job.

Curioso

I still do not stand corrected altho. The facts i point out about the calipers etc. Even iff the rotors are thinner than servicable limits or the pads even thinner than servicable limits they will still grab accordingly at nearly any preset of the candbrake cable. Thus inspection of the calipers would be a good idea. The hydraulic operation can for a point function to 80 percent correct but , the handbrake function is not hydraulic but an internal pit screw in the calipers. Sum of wut yu say i doubt , as to tie in why yu would do such things , because it does not collaborate with wut yu previously said. Nun the less , hope yur brakes work out great

Looking back I think the reason the handbrake is substantially looser (more clicks to fully engage) now than two years ago, when I could adjust it so it barely leaves the floor before it's fully engaged, is due to wear on the rear disc rotors. I think if I got new rotors, the cable wouldn't have to go so far to fully engage, and the lever would therefore not have to be pulled up as far (say 3-4 clicks max). However, I think the rotors will last until the next set of rear pads is needed, so I'll wait until then.