my friends dad works for toyota so i can do it at my house

so i have to take the tire off and pull the trany out that way

Wow, yea... not even CLOSE. For a mechanic that KNOWS what he's doing, it's about a 2 day project working at a moderately steady pace through the day. Bring it to someone that knows what they're doing and has the proper tools (clutch alignment tool, etc, etc).

lmao
it does not look like it would be that hard i rebuils a lot of motors and put in many clutches in other cars
but it looks like it would be east to do in the 3000gt

It is an 8 hour job.

pull the wheels, the axles, remove the braces, remove the frame brace. Remove the bolts. Pull it the fuck off the block.... replace clutch.

Do in reverse order

cool im going to do it monday
i have to finish my friend 90, 300zx rebuild
and then my car is next



o and when i shift and pop the clutch it clunks hard some times like some thing is luse
would u know what that is
my friends dad says its the clutch but i never had a car do that

bad mount or something internal... Are you buying my clutch?

no i got one off my friend he has a vr4 and he bought a non vr4 clutch
but thanks

i know this is for the sl model, but i found a great site that has some good info for the tt tuner. this is from the 3SI.org website, so im not plagiarizing lol and all the numbers above the stages are approximate HP gains




Staged Upgrades: 3000GT VR-4 and Stealth TT

Everyone has different tastes and preferences. This list is by no means a definative source. The greatest caveat is that evry car is different and results will vary. Also some of the parts mentioned may be for off-raod use only in your state.This is only a general guideline. Some components mentioned here may be substituted or left off depending on personal preference and perfomance interests.


Aproximate HP Gains
Stage 1: Tune Up and Performance Prep

The first thing you want to do before adding more power is to go to a reputable shop that can give you a complete tune-up. Install a set of Magnecor KV85 8.5mm plug wires and a nice set of NGK plugs. Also make sure that your stock fuel injectors are cleaned and balanced. If your car is approaching 60K miles, please have your timing belt replaced if you haven't already done so. With these done, you are now on your way to making more power, safely.


NA
Stage 2: Intake

What you want to do here is to improve the flow of air through the engine. The stock airbox is very restrictive. Replacing that with a open element intake like the K&N or HKS Power Flow helps the engine breath better by allowing more air in to the engine.


6-8
Stage 3: Exhaust

Likewise the exhaust will also improve the flow of air through the engine. The stock exhaust from Mitsubishi uses small piping that are bent in a lot of places, restricting flow. It is recommend you go with a larger diameter and mandrel bent exhaust.


8-12
Stage 4: Boost Controller and Boost Gauge

Once you have opened up the air flow with the intake and exhaust, it is now time to turn up the boost! By installing a boost controller, you can take advantage of what you've done in stages 1 and 2. This also allows you to put the factory turbo to full use. The stock boost on the '91-'93 cars were set at around 9 psi, and the '94 and newer cars are factory set at 12 psi. With a boost controller, you can now safely turn the boost up to 14 psi on both generation models. At this time, it is extremely important to install a aftermarket boost gauge. The stock gauge is highly inaccurate! The boost gauge is both a safety precaution and a great diagnostic tool. This allows you to make sure that your car is not over-boosting or under-boosting. Also do not boost past 14psi with stock fuel injectors. Even if everything "feels" ok.
You will knock and approach fuel cut. Fuel cut has a very high percentage of breaking a piston and or a valve. After 14lbs of boost a stock turbo system is just dumping in a lot of hot air. Resist the urge to turn it up. Do not overboost!


30-50
Stage 5: High-Flow Cat

Installing a street-legal high flow cat is the next step.


15
Stage 6: Downpipe

After you turn up the boost, it is now time to free up the exhaust some more. The downpipes that comes from the factory is (what else?) very restrictive, not to mention heavy. By installing an aftermarket downpipe, you will notice a weight savings of approximately 10 pounds.


15
Going past stage 6? Now your starting to get serious!

Consult with your favorite 3S tuner for combinations, brands, etc. It is also important that you have moved up to stage 4 on the performance chart by this time.

Stage 7 upgrades have been considered best to get all at the same time.

Stage 7.1: Fuel Pump

You will need a unit capable of much greater flow. Yes your gas mileage will start to drop with Stage 7.


25-35+
Stage 7.2: Fuel Injectors

Most people move up to the 550cc flavor. These are a large move over the stock 360cc injectors. Some people will use the 450cc injectors out of the turbo eclipses and some people go all the way up to the 720cc models for real tranny busting power.


Stage 7.3: Air/Fuel ratio controller

There are several to choose from. This will control the extra fuel you will be dumping in. Also getting a Air/ Fuel ratio gauge is a good idea. There are units that range from $300 to $1,500. So be sure to research the one that will perform to the level you will need.


Stage 8: Larger Turbos

Now after stage 7 you are ready for a turbo upgrade. The two most common upgrades are to the 13g and the 15g turbos. These two units just bolt on and will provide a large power gain.


13g - 40

15g - 80
Stage 9: Intercoolers

Now after your turbo upgrade. You need to get the air charge temperature down. The amount of power is proportionate to the intercooler size and turbo size.


20-40+
Stage 10: Ingnition

You most likely will need to supply a hotter spark to ignite the increased fuel and air mix.


2-4
Stage 11: Underdrive Pulley and Aluminum Flywheel

These are two controversial upgrades. Most tuners recommend you balance your crank in order to safely and effectively use these two mods. On the other hand several guys have put them on without balancing their engine and have had no problems. Just be sure to research this one for yourself.


15-20
Going past stage 11? Now your obsessed!

Consult with your favorite 3S tuner for combinations, brands, etc. It is also important that you have moved up to stage 8 on the performance chart by this time.

Stage 12: Port heads, intake, and exhaust manifolds.

The Factory intake and headsare actaully very nice out of the factory. They could use some improvement when you to want to build more than 550 or so horse power. The stock exhaust manifolds could use some work at just about any stage.


10-40
Stage 13: Forged Pistons and Rods

Forged Pistons will allow you to safely run much higher boost. Plus while tuning and you hit detonation you piston will have a much higher chance of not sustaining damage.

Forged Rods will let you really pound on the crankshart with out warping, bending or breaking. At lease compared to the stock rods.

Allows higher boost
Stage 14: Heat Treatments

You can have your Pistons, Valves, Turbos, Exhaust pipes all coated wit a space age ceramic coating. This coating will reduce air flow temps. Lower temps allows for more boost!


Allows higher boost

ya its out
the flywheel is jacked up it has small cracks in it