I dont know what it is.. ill try to find some pictures to post up , but heres the story


I always noticed whenever i would go around corners fast it felt like the tires were folding on it.. Weird sort of feeling, Almost thought my tire was flat but nope.. SO i ended up bringing it to a frame and axle specialist, They said nothing is bent or broken , but ( i cant remember the name ) some bolts on the control arm could not budge lose so they really couldnt align the rear end.. ( well , they could have, but they didnt have the parts, and would have to torch them off, and i need my car )


So basically all i can do is tell you what i see .. If you look from the rear end the bottom of the tire is kicked out like its squating, putting alot of wear on the inside of both wheels .. But you wouldnt notice anything by just going straight .. Well It turned out to be alot worse than i thought... So i just need to know what people might think it is.. Coil springs and shocks seem very good and there not broke or leaking, so I have no idea.. I love the car but this problem needs to get fixed and i dont know what to do




heres a few pics of the left side tire.. the right looks exactly the same


(IMG:http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m288/duey307/PIC-0015.jpg)


(IMG:http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m288/duey307/PIC-0014.jpg)

Yur rear toe most likely can be off. This would cause that odd cornering feel and also the inside tire wear. Sumtimes depending where yu live, area with lots of snow , the adjuster nut and bolt will seize up/rust up not permiotting adjustment. In most cases in the process of seizing up , and rusting they rotate slightly out of adjustment and then seize.

Any reason that its sagging so low in the rear tho?? thats what caused this to begin with , and my tires ( if you look from behind ) are really kicked out on the bottom.... if you jack up or even pull up on the rear end you can see it makes the kick out come in a lil bit

Were these tyres ever on the front of the car ?

Do you know if anyone lowered the suspension by putting in non factory rear springs ?


I would repair/replace the back adjuster bolts and get a propper rear alignment

only repalce the rear shocks if they are found to be faulty

I have posted a section recently on rear and frunt alignment and specs and diagrams. Should help. The rear toe being off will cause innere tire wear

No the coils all around are stock, , but yes, it does look like a lowered car ( how the tires kick out on the bottom, i was thinking the springs were just saging , but the first time i went to the frame shop they said the coils and shocks both look good..

but like i like figure out... if the coils and shocks are good , what is making it sag so much?? it seriously looks like the rear end was dropped a few inches ( especially when you look in the wheel well ) I just dont know where to look anymore...




And yes, the adjustment bolts i believe where what was seized or rusted on, and 2 places couldnt break them loose , so i just left it cuz of course ( like everything else on this car is special order ) b ut if i were to get new adjustment bolts How would THAT be able to lift the rear end up?? By just an Allignment?? ill take a pic tomorrow to try and post up if that might help , but i just want to get this fixed (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)


Oh and no , the tires were never on the front.. the fronts are actually normal tire wear , nothing wrong there

Well a word of knowledge. To a ppoint , there are many 1997 Mitsubishi Diamante's that were actually assembled and put togetehr in Thailand and not Australlia, and many also assembled in Thailand and finished construction in Australia , reason is that mant of these Diamante's actually had more HP than notes and teh suspension was also totally different as in coils and struts . If yu look at buying shocks on a 1997 Diamante , as my cousin has in America , it will ask for the assembly date, this is because of the suspension setup, which early 1997 to mid 1997 Diamante's assembled in Thailand or packaged in Thailand and finished assembly in Australia , the LS Diamante's suspension was based on the Japanese and Thailand model 1996-1998 Diamante struts and coils and trailing arms based of the Diamante GS and VR-S and SUPER INVECS II model coils and struts. Altho the car had stock coils and struts it did seem lowered as compared to other models 1998 onward until the american VR-X.

The American VR-X suspension is that back to similar of the early 1997 model. which is why the struts are special order , as because the struts were superceded by a new model when used on the VR-X and Australlian ralliart and Sports models 2001 onward

wow.. lol thanks for the update, i had no clue...

So what should i do .. if you had my car what would be your first step... New adjustment bolts and alignment?

This is wut happened. As yur rear toe , Like early american LS Diamante yur VR-X is made to handle, it is like about an inch lower than normal models i think , or alsmot. But the suspension is stiffer. Trust meeh it is. I have a 2 cousins in VA in the USA and one has an 1996 production model for 1997 and his brother has a 1999 model . They are both LS but the 1997 is a little lower ,

And the exhaust has a slightly different growl , also has less things as in no sunroof as many TDM, JDM , but anyway the cars drive , ride and handle like night and day. The 97 can outhandle the 99 any day. Cornering , acceleration etc and no mods to either one. The 99 has a K&N but the 97 is all stock.

Oh yeah , this is wut happened to yur rear alignment. The rear toe adjustment nut and bolt started to corrode / rust frum weathering , and slowly as the did this they slowly rotated out of proper adjustment and then rusted and corroded up alot. And then the ehad of the adjustment screw prolly deteriated , as well the adjustment plate.

I would take the time to get the old adjustment screw , nut and plate off. It may require using a die grinder and grinding a section of the nut off til yu can pop it off and then use a punch and pop the bolt out. Replace the bolt with oem Mitsubishi ones , the adjustment shim/washer will have toe markings on it and yu can readjust it to where it should be.

Good deal, thats where i'll start .. Thanks again for the replies. Just want to get this thing in perfect working order again.. I've only been here for a few days , but I have a strong feeling im not the only person who is having Heater core type issues ( smelling of antifreeze, fogging inside of windows .. ) and transmission or TCU issues... This has been a problem for a while now as well..


The transmission seems to slip at times.. It almost feels "weak" i guess..?? If you notice some cars when they shift have a nice solid shift up or down, this just seems like its nursing itself... What happens is right before it shifts to the next gear up it revs up like its slipping.. Might be a computer issue but im not sure.. Usually if im just driving normal it shifts at about 3000 rpm, but when this slipping thing happens , right as it shifts i see my tach tev up to 3500 or so, then it drops into gear.. Any ideas?

on some models the heater leaks and drips into the TCU causing problems

heater core problems with this model are common


auto
If not a trip tronic is the overdrive off or on when it slips ?

a service/oil change for the auto usually fixes most problems (use only mitsubishi ATF oil )

you have severely worn "pillow" bushing on the lower lateral arm.
very common. especially in a state like wisconsin, where the winter manages to force water into them.

.. wow, never thought of that.. , all i was thinking was alignment.. Like the guy above who wa helping me, it does need new adjustment bolts and shims etc With an alignment.. And now you think its the bushings.. hmm


Sorry to ask but i have searched so much and so long for actual mitsubishi parts for this thing.. WOuld you happen to have a link to the parts i might need?

its an auto, no overdrive button tho.. Other than just the mild ( 400-500 rpm ) rev when it shifts it runs great, and sometimes the tranny seems solid as a rock.. its weird.. So your thinking a tranny flush?? new filter maybe?


And how hard is it to fix the heater core in these

Ive been fixing mitsus for almost twenty years.
you will not need an alignment. You need the bushings, and a tool to remove/install them. They are a VERY common wear item. In fact, its about the only one besides weeping heater core "o" rings that are common.

I have the same problem; here's my question though: You say "Lower Lateral Arm", but are you referring to the "toe control arm", the "trailing arm", or the "Lower Arm", as referred to by Mitsubishi?