So as I posted under "sad site", my timing belt slipped while I was messing around under the hood - the ENGINE NOT RUNNING.... so ever 60K guide I read talks about lining up the timing marks and making sure that the cams don't move. So, my cams are moved... I'm no where near the timing marks.... how do I get my cams lined up and the crank lined up - I imagine I could mess up the valves even turning the engine manually ....

u have too remove the belt completly
then line everything back up u may have too move the crank up and down some too get the cams lined up but u shouldnt hurt anything as long as u dont force anything..

if it only jumped a couple teeth like u said you should be able to move it right back without worrying about valves hitting pistons. The best way i can think to do it is 1 cam at a time with the old belt still on to help hold everythings place, and when you get it back to where it should be, lock the cams in place and change the belt. You wanna watch out just taking the belt off without anythig holding the cams in place. depending on the position of the valves there may be ALOT of spring tension wanting to turn the cam...i think i remember hearing of someone who got their thumb broken trying to set their timing. Anywaysm just something to be aware of.

you can't damage anything if the engine isn't on. It doesn't sound like you have a clue what you're doing though, so, I would HIGHLY recommend finding someone local who is a mechanic, and have them set your timing.

There ain't no body that doesn't know what they're doing up in the woods here. I'll just have to wing it.

It was only the rear cam on the front head, and it was only a few teeth - not sure how many is the problem... but, while I turn the crank to get to TDS, worst case, I'll have to move that one cam a bit so the valves clear - and then I'll probably just be a little off on one timing mark... hope it goes down like that.

Thanks for advising to keep the old belt on until it's lined up - I think that's the way go to.

I priced the parts at a mitsubishi dealer today - belt, water pump, tensor and I think an idle pully - almost $600 - oof - the car isn't worth that... Time to hit ebay I guess.

600...no way. IPS has it for like 450, and i think there was a group buy on 3si for like 300 IIRC. definitely shop around.

If you are gonna go through a dealer, i got mine through rockville mitsu for 350...they were doing a package deal for 3si members. you may wanna try giving them a call.

Make sure everything lines up turn the crank by hand, clockwise until that is at TDC.

You will then be able to see how far off the cams are. With the engine off you can do pretty much anything with out damage.

Cherry Hill Mitsubishi in Cherry Hill NJ offers a 30% discount to 3si members. Order up from them.

Yes, Ask fro Jeff in parts. His price is about 10-15% above actual cost.

what happens when the valve and the piston meet while you're manually (by wrench) turning it over?

I'm having a the worst time getting the crank pulley off... I thought I have it locked in place - actually it was - but the outer part of the pulley is actually a seperate piece, and the inner was moving independantly as I used my legs to turn my 1/4 inch ratchet. Could have have damaged the valves if/when I SLOWLY turned things over, or would the valve springs give a little as I squeezed by?

Ether way, I'm doing a compression test before I buy a new belt and all.....

Still struggling with the pulley. I made a mitsubishi-like tool, and I have the pulley definetly locked now. I borrowed an impact wrench, but I have a crap compressor, so I can only hit the bolt for a number of seconds at a time. Real pain. I'm lucky I don't have to drive this thing - I'd be majorly stressed.

I got the !@#$%)@#$)^* crank pulley off - with a crazy setup, which included a 3 foot steel pipe. I had to turn/twist my entire setup with brute force almost 180 before - pop. the last week on the car as been way better exercise than the gym.

I got the timing all lined up - just have to adjust the tensor pulley - I'll have to make that tool too I guess.

I found it weird that the manual says to put the crank timing mark off by one tooth. Did I miss a step later that lines that up?

Also, I have a crank pulley off the parts car from last year... It takes the V style belt on the inner pulley vs. the flat ones. Is this one of those under-drive deals you think?

I was able to get everything tight enough to turn the engine over and do my compression check. I've got compression, but it isn't that great - of course, the engine is cold too though. All the cyliners are reading around 125 except for the front bank, passenger side - it seemed to come up lower - 110 or so.

That's a 91 style crank pulley. The 92+ models are a serpentine belt.

Thanks! I found I have two spare power steering pumps that take the V belt. (one from parts car and one spare came with this car - seller said power steering pump leaked, but he never got around to installing the used one) So, as long as I still have the tension pulley to match, I'll be good to go.

Thanks again.

Slowly making progress. The inside of the timing belt cover was all grease too. Clean now.
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