oh well, no responses to my query of some weeks ago for info re: enhancing the expo. am i alone in fancying a evo-wannabe in the guise of a family mini-van?

does anyone out there know of the expo's ancestry? with what other mitsu's might it share chassis' and engines? is there any commonality between the 2.4 and 2.0 DOHC engines? can an intake or headers that fit the 2.0 (that's all i see in the hot parts adds in the tuner mags) also fit the old 2.4?

aren't there any experts out there who can help?

???what is an expo???

well, not the response i was hoping for....

to answer gevo's question, my expo is a 7-seater mini-van/wagon of moderate dimensions which has a 2.4 litre DOHC, 5-speed man trans, all-wheel drive and ABS 4-wheel discs; and 218,000 or so miles....


where are all the mitsubishi experts?

ahhh so would i be right in saying its the same as a space runner,rvr??Or is it more like a spacewagon??Sorry for the questions but ive never heard of an expo before. :)

what you mentioned i never heard before; however what became the expo was sold previously, in the usa anyway, as the colt vista. it might have been an extended chassis of what we knew as the colt, which had a vw rabbit/golf-like body equipped w/ a two-range manual trans; but hey, what do i know?

It has the same engine as the 1995-1998 Galant. So many of the engine mods are the same. You can buy an intake that fits the galant and it will work with very slight mods. Also any exhaust shop should be able to upgrade the exhaust system. You can buy wheels at www.tirerack.com and see what they will look like on your expo online before buying.

thanks alot! might you know if the expo shared suspensions w/ any other mitsu's?

It has the same design as the 1st generation galants but I cant be sure that the suspension parts will fit.

Check out www.overboost.com and put in your vehicle info.They have some mods there.

Hi all, new to the forum and I'm an Expo owner as well.

Mine is a 92 Expo LRV AWD. A shorter version of the one Expositor describes.

The LRV is a 3 door with a hatch. It has normal swing open doors for the front passengers and a mini sliding door on the passenger side for the rear seat passengers.

Mine also has a 1.8 liter SOHC 16 valve 4G93 engine and a 5 speed stick shift and All Wheel Drive.

I'm also working on on trying to get more ooomph out of it. So far I haven't done much except add a 10k ohm potentiometer in series with the IAT. The potentiometer is mounted in a little project box in the cab so I can adjust it. This allows me to richen the fuel air ratio a little by feeding inputs to the ECU indicating that the outside air temp is as low as -50 degrees farenheit.

I've seen threads (maybe even somewhere around here - I don't recall) that indicate that this doesn't work. I am one to say that it DOES. It doesn't give any BIG gains, but it definitely allows you to run a couple of degrees faster timing without pinging (predetonation) and gives it a little smoother low-end.

Anyway, I've ordered an oiled-gauze cone filter with a MAF adapter for it, so the restrictive stock airbox is going away next. Probably going to replace the accordion intake tube with some PVC or exhaust tubing to smooth out the airflow. When I do that installation I will probably do the lower honeycomb removal mod to maximize it.

At this point I don't plan on doing much of anything to the exhaust system, for fear of the potential loss of low-end torque. Its already weak enough in that area, and I'm not willing to trade ANY low-end to try to improve the top end. If anyone can suggest some inexpensive exhaust mods guaranteed not to sacrifice any low end, then I'd be willing to listen.

I'm looking for an adjustable cam gear, but the only one I've found is from RPW and the freight for the new gear from Australia, and to return mine to them as a core is around 80 bucks! Add that to the $100 price tag and it starts looking a bit steep as an "experiment". Anybody got a line on any other cam gear that will work on the 4G93? The same engine was used in the 93-96 Mirage, but none of the big names seem to make one for it. I'm actually starting to think about picking up a junkyard cam gear and try making my own!

Any other suggestions on how to get more out of this engine without sacrificing any low-end torque or power?

WOW! I've never seen an auto enthusiast forum that was so DEAD!

5 days and not a single comment. Hmmmmmn.....

bobc,

point well taken; but can't we assume not everyone can get on the computer as often as they'd like, especially if they've kids who hog the blasted thing....

also, as our models have not been imported for about ten years, the availability of parts decreases, and familiarity as well, no?

when you fabricate your intake, i assume you must make provision for the sensor right of the airbox? can i impose on you to share that info when you complete your intake work? i've been reluctant to go ahead w/ mod's that have to be custom fabricated in the absence of aftermarket bolt-ons. also, won't headers, again assuming you can find some or custom fabricate them, free up some horses throughout the engine's power curve? are there any cat-back exhausts for the expo's? some diagrams i've seen don't have any where the outlet emanates from the rear muffler's middle. i also share your preference for an increase in low-end power w/out affecting the high end.

while i'm at it, i should thank all those who kindly refrained fom pointing out my mentioning several times, erroneously, that my 2.4 litre was a DOHC instead of a SOHC....

No fabrication required. I believe the "sensor right of the airbox" you refer to is the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. I ordered a MAF adapter and oiled-gauze cone type filter (K&N knockoff) off eBay. It came in Friday and I put it on Saturday.

Best $23 I ever spent on ANYTHING automotive! The install was even simple.
1) Disconnect one of the battery cables. This will reset the ECU and make sure you don't short anything during the install.
2) Loosen the clamps for both ends of the air intake hose that goes between the MAF and throttle body and remove it.
3) Remove the MAF and the engine-side half of the airbox as a unit.
4) Unbolt MAF from airbox (4 bolts).
5) Bolt filter adaper onto MAF
6) Attach filter to the inlet of MAF adaper with hose clamp
7) Remove remaining half of airbox from bracket bolted to fenderwell
8) Remove bracket from fenderwell
9) Remove the cold air intake runner from between the fender and the battery - it is held in by two bolts.
10) Remove bolts that hold fuse box in place
11) Install air hose between MAF & throttle body with the MAF/MAF adapter/cone filter assembly in place so that the cone filter occupies the space where the old airbox was. It will be kind of wedged into the area under the mounts for the fuse box. This is actually kind of a good thing. DON'T TIGHTEN THE CLAMPS ON THE AIR HOSE YET.
12) Reinstall the bolts that secure the fuse box. You actually have to kind of push it down onto the filter and "squish" the filter a little (as the filter is lying on its side). Being trapped between the underside of the fuse box and the fenderwell like this helps hold it in place. Just make sure the metal seam of the filter isn't facing up and shorting any of the contacts on the bottom side of the fuse box. That would be a bad thing.
13) Make any necessary adjustments to the positioning of the hose, MAF, & filter, THEN tighten down the hose clamps between the MAF and throttle body.
14) Reconnect battery cable.

The whole job took me about 60-90 minutes to complete.

The results were nothing short of amazing! It pulls stronger in all gears across the full RPM range. It has better low RPM torque, better throttle response, and it revs up both much faster, AND much higher. MAN, was I ever surprised! I did some test runs up a 3/4 mile long, 6% grade, hill near my house. Before installing the new filter I could only accelerate up to 70-72 mph in 4th gear before hitting the steep part and I could only top that hill at 55 mph.

Now, starting from the same exact spot, I can get up to 75-78mph before hitting the steepest part of the grade - and top the hill at 62-63 mph. So, I've gained 5-6 mph acceleration (evidence of increased HP) and can maintain it longer as I climb the hill (evidence of increased torque - as illustrated by the fact that I had a 7-8 mph higher speed when I reached the top, even though I only had a 5-6 mph better speed when starting the steepest part of the climb).

I really couldn't believe it! The bang per buck is definitely worth the investment. I took it for a 200+ mile road trip today (business) and got a chance to really test it out. Now, keep in mind that mine is a 1.8 liter 5-speed so it is probably not as quick or as fast as yours is to start with, BUT......

It will do 30+ in 1st, 50+ in 2nd, 70+ in 3rd and 90+ mph in 4th gear on flat ground now! Before, it started getting breathless and topping out at around 75 mph in 4th gear. I'm tellin' ya', this low restriction filter woke this little motor UP!

Be forewarned though. It is definitely louder under the hood. Up to about 1/2 throttle it isn't really noticeably louder, but when you put your foot in it you can hear the difference immediately! The sound is lower, and more growl-y, and quickly builds to a full snarl! I'd say a little more than twice as much engine noise penetrates the cabin with the cone filter, when compared to the stock airbox. Personally, I LIKE IT! Instead of that resonant buzz-y sound it used to have it now has a much lower, throatier growl. I actually have to make myself take it easy around town, 'cause I want to mash the throttle every chance I get just to hear it!

My next mod will be to install a larger throttle body, and probably a MAF, from the 4G64 - the same engine as what you have in yours. I'm really interested to see if I get the same kind of improvement from doing that as what I got with the filter. For your 2.4, switching to a larger throttle body, like maybe one from say a DOHC 2.4, would be the comparable modificaiton. I'll let you know how it goes with mine and if it is worthwhile. Truth is, if I hadn't already ordered and paid for the throttle body, I might not even bother. The improvement with just the filter and the IAT mod I did would have been enough. It is actually a fun car to drive now! Though I expect it will get even more fun here shortly ;)

In the meantime, I HIGHLY recommend you get yourself one of the filter and MAF adapter kits off of eBay. This one should work for you
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...sspagename=WDVW .
I'll bet money you won't be disappointed if you do!

Hello,

I just inherited a 93 Expo from my brother-in-law. It is in decent shape but the motor developed rod knock two days after I got it. Sad.

Anyway, I believe I have an answer to your mod w/o loss of torque question. My other car is a full bolt-on modified 96 200sx SE-R with the venerable 2.0 SR20DE engine. One of the best bang for the buck mods I did was install a thermoblock (phenolic spacer) in between the intake manifold and head, right where the gasket goes. Well I'll save the explanation, since its all on the website but you can order it at www.outlawengineering.com.

I tell you that this product works :clap: . I put 268 degree cams on my se-r along with this thermoblocks and my worry of losing lowend on such a lopey cam was saved because of the low-mid end punch that the thermoblocks gave back.

I believe they cost about $120-140. Depending on application though in can be an easy install or a pain in the ass. Mine was the latter.

Cheers and I hope to get my Expo back on the road....hmmmm 4g63t turbo stuff bolts on eyy :devil:

A couple of questions for you jaranc.

The phenolic spacer you're talking about looks pretty interesting. I was expecting something an inch or more thick. I figured it was basically going to be a way to lengthen the intake runners. Cooling the intake makes sense.

From what you said something in your post about 4G63 turbo parts. I presume you've got the 2.4 liter (4G64?).

The only problem is that I don't see one listed for any models that look like they might have a 4G93 engine. Unfortunately it doesn't appear that the phenolic spacer or the 4G63 turbo parts are things that would work for my 1.8 liter - unless I can find the phenolic material and make the insulator one myself for the 4G63. :(

Email them (outlawengineering) and ask if the 1.8 is interchangeable with any other mitsu engine. They are pretty good at replying.

Well, I've driven it enough since the last mod to say that my gas mileage hasn't suffered. Still about 20mpg city and 28mpg highway - 24 mpg average.

Guess it's time to do the 2.4 liter throttle body install. I got it delivered late last week so I'll probably install it next weekend - stay tuned.....

BTW, I dropped the tech support folks at outlawengineering a note Friday, jaranc. Guess we'll see what they have to say. If one isn't available I might buy some phenolic material off eBay and make my own.

Bringing this back from the dead.

I bought a 92 Expo SP AWD a couple of weeks back, finally got it out of the shop on Saturday (had to wait for a ECU).

The front struts are the same as the Galant VR4's. The rear suspension is completely different on the Expo. The only upgrades available for the rear shocks are Bilstiens and only available in the EU market.

The rear control arms are much shorter then the 1st gen T/E/L and Galants, but will see if it is possible to change the rear to a shock and spring set up.

This will be a 4G64 turbo project. I have always worked on DSMs and this will be a fun project.

I'll update as this goes along.

John

I will follow your turbo project with great interest. I too am tickled at the prospects of turboing the expo. Seems that van/wagons are back in rage..esp with Mercedes' R350/R500 just out.

I do think though that the weakest link is the auto tranny. I will be researching on common trannys with other mitsu cars. I do prefer to keep it auto.

SP? Is that the 5-door (4 regular and a hatch)? Mine is the LRV AWD 4-door (2 regular, passenger side slider and a hatch).

Sounds like yours has the 4G63 in it already? If so, that should make the 4G64 swap pertty easy....