Not fairly familiar when it comes to the brains of the car. What exactly does the flash do, and what exactly is specific about the Works one? It says it gives about 15hp, and you ship out your ECU? Fairly old new I think, but would like to know about it in time for my next upgrade (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WpOw9YvcbPE

They pretty much re-program the ECU with a new fuel curve. ECU uses the new curve to maximize power. Usually you have to up the octane to see the gains, but that's it in a nutshell. Takes a couple days, i think, for them to do it, but from what i've heard, it's worth it to those who really want it.

Regards.

You take your ECU out, ship it to them, you tell then what upgrades you have or what stock stuff you have, they reprogram it, then they ship it back the same day, you will probably be without a car for 2-3 days all together.

Here's the catch, they re-program the ECU for better performance, but to really keep those gains, every time you add a performance upgrade you will need to flash the ECU again, since performance upgrades change the hp/torque/fuel curves. If you're not going to add a lot of performance upgrades then the works flash is good, if you want to add all performance upgrades available and more in the future, I'd get a piggy back ecu, so you can re-tune when needed. RRM has one now, but it only does fuel mappings I believe. I'm sure you'll see more coming out soon from other manufactures. Dyno tuning is the best way to go and that requires a piggy back or a shop that will keep re-programming your ecu for you at a decent price.

I dont understand the concept of ecu flash on a non boosted car. wtf can you change much on stock maps that ECU cant change itself? Our cars have whats called a Learning ECU - in other words, by adding exhaust and intake to the car, ECU will adapt and change the map settings itself - also based on driving habits. There are limits to what it can do therefore you need a piggy back or standalone when you go Turbo.. but on an intake and exhaust, ecu learns from your MAF and O2 sensors (intake and exhaust) and changes.

Background: There is something called "Ignition Advance Multiplier". It represents the average learned positive knock correction applied to the ignition maps. It's represented in 1/8th degrees increments. 1 being the lowest and 16 being the highest (1/8 to 2 degrees in absolute terms).
The "happier" (knock free) the car is, the higher the number will be. The lower it is, the more knock prone it is. This number, after ECU reset ore ECU swap defaults to 8 and usually creeps up to 16 (if well mapped) through normal driving. Depending on driving characteristics, this can happen within a few hours or a few weeks. (source NASIOC - i wouldnt have worded it so well myself lol)

And here's how you can skip the hours, days, weeks of learning process. Find 1/4 mile stretch with nobody around. After car is warmed up to running temps, shut the car off, disconnect NEG terminal from batterry and pump your brakes for a few seconds. After this is done, start your car and drive until you reach 2500rpm in 3rd gear - this is critical - you have to stay at around 2500rpm in 3rd gear for about 10 seconds, do not overrev the car. Barabing, you are done.

If you dont believe me.. go get a dyno done before you do this and get one done after you do it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

As always simmoes is right on. I decided to shoot a email to my local shop and see what they said, they specialize in dyno tuning. They said there is no advantage to flashing ecu or dyno tuning a stock car or a car with a few bolt ons. The engineers take care of initial tuning and the ecu takes care of bolt ons that you add. Tuning/flashing is only needed when you go nitrous or turbo or supercharger or are building the heck out of the engine.
These guys specialize in nitrous, turbos, and superchargers, so when I add a nitrous kit and if/when I go turbo (or better), I'll add the piggy back or a stand alone unit at that time.
So my first response was a little off, but simmoes to the rescue.... you da man. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif)

I would like to thank my family, friends, my producer and the whole crew behind the scenes. LOL

haha, nice.

LOL. Too funny.

Haha alright I guess the ECU flash is out of my list. Piggyback ECU anyone?

RRM has one. It does fuel mappings. Cost $429 US. Comes with the software so you'll need a laptop if you want to dyno tune it or change mappings. Or just use the default mapping that rrm has set up.

Before you get a piggy back, I'd get the basics first like: exhaust, light weight pulley, intake, headers, timing control box. I know you already have an intake so there's one down. I plan to do all the mods I can first (hopefully including nitrous), then get a piggy back and then dyno tune it.

Like we said the stock ECU will do fine with just adding a bolt-on or two. If your thinking about piggy back, get all the mods you can get your hands on to get the maximum performance out of the money you'll spend on the piggy back.

I have one thing to add though. Nobody mentioned Canadian ECU's. If you by chance live in Canada -----> me. Than you have a stupid ecu, and i mean that. Our ecu does not learn" like the US lancer ecu does, nor the Japanese one. I read up alot, and Mitsubishi Canada say's theres no difference between the ecu here and in the states. But when u ad a bolt on in the states, (for example) like an injen intake, you will see a 7hp gain off the dyno. If you add one in Canada, you can actually loose HP!. Some1 contacted Mitsubishi Japan and they said the Canadian ECU and the american ECU are different. They wont tell you whats different, but they will say it is, and Canada and US will say their the same. SO i don't know wtf is going on lol.

Anyhow long story short, if u purchased your lancer in Canada, getting an ecu flash once u have a bolt on (stateside flash will work fine) it will make a big difference vs if u already live in the US.

Oh haha, and if you get a ecu flash in the states at a certified dealer. Mitsubishi Canada is not sure, yeah, IS NOT SURE, if they will warranty it. They cant say they wont and they cant said they will. I guess it depends on your car breaking down, and them saying, Hmm what would cost us more. lol I called them about it after i heard from some1 else.

i dont think you were told correctly. I'm 99% sure that 99% of new production cars have learning ECU. Otherwise, you shouldnt even have oxygen sensor lol

Nono, im right, our ecu does learn, no doubt, but it learns slow and is a funny way. Ill post a thread u can read about it.

Very very interesting, people should read. A must for canadians

http://tolancer.com/index.php?option=com_w...er&Itemid=8

I am not sure how the flash is for the lancer, but I know when I had my camaro tuned there was quite a noticeable gain. I would assume they change the timing and fuel curves through the rpm's to maximize hp and tq, not sure what else they all change.

I just got my computer back from Works. And I could not be happier! The car is noticeable stronger WOT but more importantly is more responsive at all rpms and throttle percentages. I would recommend it to anyone. Works knows what they are doing more so than anyone tuning a piggy back tuner themselves. or some of these start up companies. it will be the most noticeable mod you make aside from a turbo or supercharger. It is like driving a different car. plus there are no negative side effects. It idles perfectly and driveability is improved all around. i do have to run premium fuel but that is fine with me. I wish i had done it sooner.

FastLane
'09 Lancer GTS Graphite Gray
Manual, Sun and Sound, Nav, Touring pgk.,
Works filter, Ralliart snorkel,
Works flash, Works anti-sway bar,
VG shark fin, tint

Since you paid a lot of money for the works flash why not get a dyno done now so we can see what potential gains could be had?
(BTW - I still believe a dyno tune is a better way to go.)

So im not sure if i understand this correctly. So by disconnecting the battery and driving in 3rd gear at 2500 rpm's this resets the "ignition Advance Multiplier" to its best setting for more power? And i would imagine that it would only stay like this for a short period of time?

pretty much. This is very usefull if you were to take your car to a track for some runs, you'd reset your ecu before you take it out..
As to everyday driving, it will eventually reconfigure itself back to optimized setting

I would agree that a custom dyno tune would be the best way to go. Like if Works was around the corner and i could drive over there. I just doubt anyone close to me would know what they are doing. I'll look into the dyno. i'm kinda curious myself.

FastLane
'09 GTS Manual Graphite Gray
sun & sound, nav, touring pkg,
works filter, flash, rear sway bar,
ralliart snorkel, vg shark fin, tint

Cool, if you get a dyno done, definitely post the results. I thought I read (or saw a dyno) somewhere that the works flash got someone a 18hp gain. That would be a nice gain.