Hi

I think it was chain rattle who had TP Magna Timing Cover Oil Seal change instructions? I'm hoping to change it with the least amount of mucking around.

I know you have to remove the LHS Engine Mount so the engine drops down enough to remove the pulley, but do you also have to jam a screwdriver in the torque converter so you can remove the pulley bolt without the engine turning?

Curioso

I had to build a tool with some plate steel and a couple stubs of rebar to hold the pulley.
It took a massive air impact wrench to break the bolt free. I tried cheater bars and an
electric impact rated at 250 ft-lb, only the 1500ft-lb impact could do the job.

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I changed it the other day and found I had to jam a screwdriver in the torque converter to stop that pulley bolt from turning. The screwdriver at the end of it was munted after being hammered out.

The worst thing was the aircon pulley nut - it got rounded and it took me 15 different tools (pliers, shifters, nutgrabbers) to work out that a ratchet ring spanner would do it, because they have a high number of points.

Then I had to remove both the left and front engine mounts to drop it down far enough to slide the pulley out.

Other than that the job is fairly easy. To get the old seal out I just used a bent screwdriver type lever and pulled hard on the rubber only. Worked after a few goes - you could see it loosening.

The whole point was to change a rubber seal with Viton - a brown synthetic rubber - so that I reduce oil loss now and am more likely to sustain that over time than with a rubber seal.

thats a great bit of tool making Starman

I must be the only one that takes the sump off to undo the nut (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blush-anim-cl.gif)

Given that when you put the pulley back in, you don't always line up the timing mark with 13 deg BTDC, or whatever it was when you pulled it out, would you be able to adjust it back to 13degBTDC without removing and realigning the pulley if it was way out (say 180 degrees out) when you put it back in? I ask because I don't think the distributor travel is enough to cover a pulley whose timing mark is that far out.

Of course I didn't use the rounded pulley bolt on reinstallation. I went to a wrecker and got two of them (one as a spare) off the same type of Magna. I hate rounded boltheads because they stop you from adjusting anything and hold up jobs unexpectedly because I always forget they are there if I don't get rid of them soon as I see them. I think they use crappy metal for those two aircon boltheads because I rounded the other vertical one that pulls the idler pulley up its slide one time also, and had to get one from a wreckers also.

The spinoffs to this job are that you get to 1) degrease the engine beforehand 2) check the fan belts for deterioration 3) adjust the fan belt deflection rate to specifications on reassembly 4) adjust the counter balance chain tension using the cap and lever (finger pressure only) and 5) adjust your engine timing. The best kinds of maintenance tasks are ones like these where you can get other work and inspections done at the same time with little additional effort or time.

Curioso