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> 01 Galant Heater Issue
saints30
post Jan 27 2011, 10:26 AM
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I just bought an 01 Galant my first Mitubishi. When the car is stopped the heater blows cold but as soon as you start driving it returns to normal heating, is this a problem or is that a Mitsubishi thing? I test drove another Galant before I bought this one and it did the same thing, I've owned many different models of vehicles and never had any do this.
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Palmz
post Jan 27 2011, 03:53 PM
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i have the same problem if it is a problem like u say
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KiT TeUnG 2549
post Jan 27 2011, 09:11 PM
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nun ive driven do that. Mine doesnt even do that. There is a couple things , if the door for the mode blend is broken internally it can cause it to swing back and forth when stopping and driving. But also if the heater core is failing /clogged internally , when the engine is at a idle state to where the pressure of coolant flow is lower , not much coolant can flow thru the heater core so the heater core cools. When yu start driving and the higher flow returns the heat returns
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Palmz
post Jan 28 2011, 03:50 PM
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i was asking my father about this yesterday he sayd i should se if there was enough water on the car.. there wasnt so i added some. about 2 liters or som.. i think my car has a verry small leak (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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KiT TeUnG 2549
post Jan 29 2011, 01:17 PM
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Could be the radiator , heater core , hose. The main points of leaks for this model , is the heater core , and radiator and maybe lower hose. or bypass hoses. On most these models the radiator seems to leak around the seam of the plastic section at the top where it meets the aluminum core. Or the plastic portion has a hair line crack that causes small amounts of coolant loss over time
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jjrrhh1
post Feb 16 2011, 10:51 AM
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i had the same problem with my 01 galant, i changed the heater core still didnt fix it ended up tracing it all the way back to the water pump the blades were shot in it. i hope this may help.
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cradon
post May 24 2011, 06:06 PM
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I also went through a similar situation and it was frustrating. But my heat gauge would also show about 3/4 hot after the car warmed up. Usually it would be showing about 1/3 on the gauge. I could drive on the highways and not overheat (well, not red line), and the temp would fluctuate from over half to almost red line. But as soon as I had to slow down etc. It would get uncomfortably close to red line. I also showed a lot of what looked like, rusty mud in my coolant system and settling in my lower radiator hose. Anyhow. After going through and replacing the thermostat and hoses and finding a leak in my radiator, flushing the system several times. Replacing the radiator. I still had the same problem, showing 3/4 hot on the gauge. Then I had the heater core backflushed. AND that was the end of that. FULL overheating .. Redline. no more short trips with the car to see how it would react. It was down to the water pump or the heater core. I decided to start with the water pump because I was also due for a timing belt.
Anyhow again. It was the blades on the water pump, they were gone.
After the new water pump was installed. (plus, the new radiator, hoses, thermostat and fresh coolant. ) It went back to working properly.
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SRSONE
post May 25 2011, 07:44 AM
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usually mitsu water pumps last a loooong time....

the usual way that the pump fins rot away is from people running just straight water or very little coolant mixture in the system...
u still need the 50/50 mix ..its not just antifreeze...its also anti boil and anti corrosion...

and yes even if u live in area that doesnt freeze or get very cold u still need coolant in the car....

coolant should be tested fotr protection levels and acidity..at least twice a year if not more
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