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I have a similar all-in-one sub myself. Guy in the shop told me it was **** and wanted to sell me something more expensive, but it works well. A cheap way of extending the bass. I don't want/need something that will shake my car to bits and let off car alarms.
Anyway:
12V+ Wire this, (with a fuse if none on the sub, say 15A) to a good solid supply of 12V. I've run a lead directly from the battery, but i'm running other things too. You could take it from somewhere around the fuse box too. Have a look. Mine had chunky 20A fuses sitting there doing nothing that were for things i didn't have, like a sunroof. You could take 12V from that wiring.
12V- Connect to ground, ya know, decent metal bit of the car, not where paint is.
remote power goes to the accesory wire that comes from the car's head unit, meant to turn on an external amp or to power the electric antenna. Check the head units manual. If it's a stock head unit, maybe is the wire for the power antenna if there is one, failing that, hook it up to the cigarett lighter. This way, the sub is turned on when the ignition is on or in ACC mode, but not when the car is parked. Don't want to flatten the battery!
Right audio signal Left audio signal audio signal ground
Are these wires, or on RCA plugs? Some of these amps are meant for speaker level signals, others line level. If it's speaker level, which it sounds like, just hook it up to the wires from the rear parcel shelf speakers. Use a multimeter on the parcel shelf speakers to check which wire on each is ground for sure. If you have continuity between - on both speakers, then you just hook up the audio signal ground to ground on one. With the signal leads, hook them to the other wire on each speaker. Does your sub amp have a siwtch for mono/stereo? If so, you could use mono. No, subs do not have to be stereo, there is no point, but it is good if it takes the bass from both channels, though not essential. You could just run it from one side. The other advantage of running it from one side only, and setting the sub to mono, is that you can control the relitive sub level by fading or panning to or away from that speaker via the head unit. But the best option is a head unit with direct sub drive and cross over for the factory speakers. If you had that, then you can make the factory speakers roll off below 80hz, and the sub come in at around 125hz. this means you can drive the factoyr speakers harder as they aren't trying to produce bass, and the sub will take care of that.
Have fun!
Rowan
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