Hi, im new to mitsubishi's and i was wondering, whats the horsepower of a 3000GT
(Roughly) And torque + weight

Specs:

- Twin Turbo
-94,000 kms
-5 speed, turbo timer, boost controller.
-Adjustable suspension
-Aftermarket wheels, ground effects, Twin 3" exhaust.


thats everything that is done to it, help please if you want
Thanks in Advance for any help :) :liebe011:

black 97 3kgt vr4
-less than 100k mi.
-60k inspection done, preferably.
-replaced transfer case

anybody selling one of these?

Stock 1gen vr4:
300 HP
307 ft/lb @2500 RPMs
3700lbs

Hey everyone! im plannin on getting this 96' base model 3000gt and its got 113k miles on it.. so im most likely gonna have to do the 120k service.. im only 17 but im doing it myself bc i cant afford do hpay sombody else to do it and their all jewish anyway! so i need to know asap (bc im getting this car within 2 weeks..) if im going to have to pull the motor to do the servicing?.. if i do its looking very dark for me getting the GT.. but im willing to buy it and still take a chance for 7k miles.. i just love these cars way too much.. please let em know asap thanks

Hi there, I've currently got a twin cam turbo 1.8l lancer (mirage) which I selling. Once it sold I'm keeping with the Mitsubishi and I'm going to get the 1992 GTO Twin Turbo. I'll be getting the Manual and I'll be dropping as many bolt ons on as my budget will allow.

Can anyone tell me apart from the Transfer Case issue is there any other issues mechanically I should be concerned about. I will be getting my mechanic to do a full inspection anyway.

What are these motors like to do work on? For example are the plugs easy to change?? I always do all my own servicing so I'm just wondering what there are like to work on.

Insurance is not an issue.

Hi I just bought a 1995 3000Gt SL Manual Trans. with a little over 66K miles. Has anybody had any problems with this one?

They are a pain, there is not a lot of room and you have to almost always remove two - five other things just to do one thing. And the plugs are annoying to change not hard just annoying, Kinda like this car. Theres a reason why when you take it to a shop they charge you an arm and and a leg.




Get a 93+ the 91-92 have cast crank, the 93+ have forged crank and then the 94+ have a passenger side airbag.

I know its probably to late for this person but here is an answer.
:57:

i'm not sure if it's been asked but what's the difference between the GTO and the VR-4? are all GTO's twin turbo? is there any difference in power?

All GTO's are all wheel drive, but some are not turbo. and GTO's are not stateside. Its in my pinned thread. If its not PM me and Ill add it

which pinned thread are you talking about?

ive been saving up for one of these (3k's in general) for a while and am now looking for the right one.- eternal search for "mr.right" eh? - initially i was looking at the sl models, but now i find myself more enticed by the vr4.
i think it may be the all wheel drive, and i like the very stable comfy feeling cause of the weight when you flyin :D . but i dont need the twin turbos, cause im not really going into racing, not yet. i want to get the right car, and love it and really take care of it, its really the first ill be doing the maint on ive got a pretty good understanding of general maint but ive never messed w changing **** and upgrades, etc. and ive got two former dealership mechanic pals who said theyd help w things until i felt comfy doing it on my own. and i wouldnt want to trust some nut w the car so im planning to do most of the work on it. maybe with my dad as well and when time comes for a big upgrade or something nuts i can always call a good friend who said would help when it came to big things, also a 3k owner
and thats pretty much where i am now, debating non stop between an sl and slowly adding and building up to a sexy beast to race w if/when i want to. (and then maybe if i felt like id goten to a point where maybe i should have gotten a vr4 i could trade/sell it. haha i cant imagine wanting to sell it once i have it) or trying to find a stock vr4.
anyone go thru the same?
advice?

Read the guide to newbie in the pinned section of the 3000gt section, that has some info on what your looking for.

All the VR4's are AWD AWS Twinturbo

You are best going with a base or an SL due to the cost of fixing these things.

They are not fun to work on and there is always two or three things that need to be taken out and replaced before you can actually get to the part you need to fix.

The thing to watch out with the VR4 is the the differential. there is a recall on it and it could be deadly if not taken care of.

i have replaced my timing belt it cost me around $70.... im sorry for you guys spending that kind of money...... oh the part that lock ur cams together cost $70 too....

Good job on forgetting the tensioner the new pulleys and the water pump.

And you can use big zip ties to lock your cams.

basically the 60k work is pretty simple. you want to make sure that the fluids have been replaced on the right times, such as tranny, oil, etc...

pop the oil cap on the vehicle your lookin for, and if its fairly dirty in there you can tell that the oil is in poor condidion, and that normally means its stayed that way, your it will tell you about the actual mileage of the vehicle.

also check the make sure the turbos are holding pressure properly, and that they arnt burning up oil...


i have a 91 vr4 that has 134k on it, and it still runs as if its off the lot.

proper maintaince solves all problems its really that simple.

you take care of your care and she'll take care of you :)

Pretty simple... yes, for everyone, no.

OK so I'm looking at a 93' 3000gt new timing belt/water pump done 100 miles ago

everyones talking bout the maintenance of the turbos and cost ect

what about the normal v6? its fwd (i know im like wtf wheres my rwd/awd)

I assume my insurence will go up, I'm on my dads insurence 2 cars atm

wanting to sell the golf and get some more power :P)
I'm at $80 on that plan no issues, would it go up to lets say $120 with the 3000gt?

also besides the belts/water pump/spark plugs-wires what else (that would be a pain in the butt) starts going out after 100k?

My friends and I are fairly mechanically minded (no shop yet lol) what has to be done absolutely by a professional?

ty for the input - I like these cars alot (so far :P)

As long as the tranny shifts smooth and it doesn't smoke and the price is below 4000 I say go for it.

Anything wrong with the car will lower that number. Brakes, suspension, interior, exterior.

And keep in mind an NA 3000GT isn't really that fast, Low 15's in the quarter mile

could you bring you car anytime to get it done at mitsubishi? or is it too late, i still have my stock ones but im just gonna get a new housing for my t-case an change my diff oil and other fluids, i think ill be having my car out of the garage in 2 weeks hopefully :57:

~Roney

WTF that thing has a V6 3.0L how is it so slow?!? I'm shocked :wacko: