One of the many complaints I receive everyday is how the new users and owners are treated. Some are kids with their first car and others are older people who just can't seem to find the clip on the air box. We need to welcome these new users with open arms to this forum, into our community.

One thing that some people fail to realize is that new members are a very valuable part of this community - for the sole reason that as time passes, old members sell their cars and the "new" users are the ones who are buying our old cars. It is these new members that will help keep this board flowing for years to come. Many of these new users bring new ideas and personality to this board, and we need to welcome this if we plan on seeing this forum grow.

Many of the older users may be tired of hearing the same questions asked over and over again. Yes, it gets annoying and old, but we were all there once. I can't even tell you how long it took me to comprehend how a turbocharger works. SOme of these common question are: not knowing the true difference between the trim models, not sure what the common problems are with these cars, ect.

This thread is intended for us members to work together and put together a Frequently Asked Question sticky that is dedicated to New Owners. One easy-to-find thread that will cover nearly everything that is repeatedly asked in this section.

Now I could have very easily written this entire thing my self but now that wouldn't be very friendly to my fellow "older" Users. This is a community thing and I want other opinions.

Below is a list of "new owner" commonly asked questions that I can think of, and if you have a moment I would like you to select one and write a detailed response to it. Consider this the LAST time that we'll ever have to write the answer to these questions (as they will be referred to by very many different new owners multiple times), so - by all means - please take the time to answer it thoroughly.

By contributing you will be adding your knowledge to the community. You will be helping clear up the clutter in the pinned section. You will have helping hand in keeping a newcomer from me coming down on him or her.

I will be monitoring this thread and keeping it clean and organized. If you notice any incorrect information please post up a revision. Don't worry about cluttering up the thread as on the next post will have direct links to the answers


This is not a my car is broke thread.

Thank you, in advance, to anyone that contributes to building this new FAQ.

~Eric


Feel free to add other questions. As stuff is answered I will delete from this list.

Once again thank you and from now on just redirect these questions to this thread... once it has some answers.

~Eric

Table of Contents

Just click your question and wait for the page to load as it will snap you right to the answer. :57:

What should I state when I ask a question?

What are the specs for the first Generation cars? (1990 - 1994)

What are the specs on the second generation cars? (1995 - 1999)

What kind of gas mileage can I expect?

What the differences between each year?

What is the top speed of my car?

Do those Ebay performance chips or modules actually work?

Is the Venom 400 Module any good?

What are some good websites to find parts?

What is the step by step process to build my non turbo engine for a turbo?

What is piston slap?

What is DSMLink? How easy is it to use?

How do I know if I have a bad head gasket? How do I replace it? What do I need?

I want to convert my FWD to AWD. What do I Need?

How do I fix my noisy lifters? How can I increase my oil pressure?

How do I change my timing belt on the 4G63 or 4G64 engine?

What are some good sites to find parts?

Sites with a :thumbsup: Have been proven and tested, and are not going to disappear next month.

:thumbsup: Horse Power Freaks - They have parts for just about any car, and the staff there actually can help you with questions. They know more then just the parts they know

:thumbsup: Slow Boy Racing - Well known and trusted throughout the entire automotive scene.

:thumbsup: Tread Stone Performance - Tested proven turbo applications for various vehicles. Very knowledgeable.

:thumbsup: Mach V -

:thumbsup: Road Race Engineering - Need some info? Go here.

:thumbsup: Buschur Racing - Some people may not like him in the DSM world anymore but he still has A++ products.

:thumbsup: Stillen - If you know aftermarket parts, you KNOW stillen.

:thumbsup: Extreme PSI Great stuff here

:thumbsup: Extreme Motorsports - One of the first 8 second Talons. Enough Said.

:thumbsup: Fuel Injector Clinic - I don't know of anyone who has used them. Once I get some positive feed back from some people they will receive a thumbs up.


:thumbsup: Howell Automotive - I don't know of anyone who has used them. Once I get some positive feed back from some people they will receive a thumbs up.

Parts Train - I don't know of anyone who has used them. Once I get some positive feed back from some people they will receive a thumbs up.

Pro Car Parts - Mostly show parts, but good shipping times and reliable. Need a couple more people to confirm this site, but so far so good

Exile Racing - More closly related to the 3 Gen cars.

Tops Online - All you spyder people who need a new top

Modern Performance

DSM Link Need one? Check them out!

What should I state when posting a question?

Car make, model, trim, type of transmission, mods.

Then your question.

IE: Mitsubishi Eclipse, GSX, 5 spd, intake, full 3inch exhaust (Including Down pipe) Greddy BOV.

My car is stalling when I shift.

My car stutters when I floor it around 3000 RPMS. Kind of back fires too. Whats wrong?

What are the specs for the first generation car?

1990-1994 (1G) Eclipse/Talon/Laser

* Eclipse: Base FWD model equipped with a 92 hp naturally-aspirated engine 1.8 L 8-valve SOHC 4G37 engine

* Eclipse GS: Upgraded FWD model with slightly more equipment

* Eclipse GS DOHC: Upgraded FWD model equipped with a 136 hp naturally-aspirated 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC 4G63 non-turbo engine**

* Eclipse GS-T: Top FWD model equipped with a 180-195 hp* turbocharged 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC 4G63T engine

* Eclipse GSX: AWD model equipped with a 180-195 hp* turbocharged 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC 4G63T engine

*1990 manual transmission turbocharged models were rated at 190 hp, whereas 1991 and later manual transmission turbo models were rated for 195 hp. The automatic models were rated at 180 hp due to smaller fuel-injectors and turbocharger.

Production
1990–1994
Body style
3-door hatchback
Layout
FF/AWD
Engine
1.8 L 92 hp I4
2.0 L 135 hp I4
2.0 L 195 hp I4
Transmission
5-speed manual
4-speed automatic
Wheelbase
97.2 in.
Length
172.8 in.
Width
66.7 in.
Height
51.4 in.
Fuel capacity
15.9 US gal.

* Talon Base: equivalent to Eclipse Base
* Talon ESi: equivalent to Eclipse RS & GS
* Talon TSi: equivalent to Eclipse GS-T
* Talon TSi AWD: equivalent to Eclipse GSX

Info Found Here -- Thank You: serial, Pwee05, and 4g63Attack!

What are the specs for the second generation car?

1995-1999 (2G) Eclipse/Talon

* Eclipse: Base FWD model equipped with a 140 hp 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Chrysler 420A engine
Base - No tachometer, standard antenna, No rear defroster, no driving lights, 14" steel wheels with covers or center caps

* Eclipse RS: Equipment Upgraded FWD model equipped with a 140 hp 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Chrysler 420A engine
RS - Tachometer, 14" alloy wheels, optional spoiler

* Eclipse GS: Equipment upgraded FWD model equipped with a 140 hp 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Chrysler 420A engine
GS / GS Spyder - Power antenna, driving lights, cruise control, body colored door handles, 16" alloy wheels, lower body cladding, spoiler, rear windshield washer (except Spyder)

* Eclipse GS Spyder: Convertible FWD model equipped with a 141 hp 2.4l 16-valve SOHC Mitsubishi 4G64 engine

* Eclipse GS-T: Hardtop FWD model equipped with a 210 hp turbocharged 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Mitsubishi 4G63 engine
GS-T - 16" Alloy 5 spoke wheels, Grey painted panel around lower body paneling (1995–96), larger spoiler (ONLY on 1997–99)

* Eclipse GS-T Spyder: Convertible FWD model equipped with a 210 hp turbocharged 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Mitsubishi 4G63 engine
GS-T Spyder - 16" Alloy 5 spoke wheels

* Eclipse GSX: AWD model equipped with a 210 hp turbocharged 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Mitsubishi 4G63 engine
GSX - 17" wheels after 1997, 1995–96 cars had 16" alloys, Grey painted panel around lower body paneling (1995–96), larger spoiler (ONLY on 1997–99)

Production
1995–1999
Body style
2-door convertible
3-door hatchback
Layout
FF/AWD
Engine
2.0 L 140 hp I4
2.4 L 141 hp I4
2.0 L 205 hp I4
2.0 L 210 hp I4
Transmission
4-speed automatic
5-speed manual
Wheelbase
98.8 in.
Length
172.2 in.
Width
68.3 in.
Height
51.6 in.
Fuel capacity
15.9 US gal.

* Talon Base: equivalent to Eclipse Base
* Talon ESi: equivalent to Eclipse RS & GS
* Talon TSi: equivalent to Eclipse GS-T
* Talon TSi AWD: equivalent to Eclipse GSX

Info Found Here -- Thank You: serial, Pwee05, and 4g63Attack!

What kind of gas mileage can I expect?


Manufacture claims -

First gen:

Non-Turbo - City - Highway
22 - 23 - 27 - 32

Turbo - City - Highway
FWD - 19 - 21 - 23 - 28
AWD - 18 - 20 - 21 - 25


Second Generation


Non-Turbo - City - Highway
Coupe - 21 - 22 - 28 - 30
Spyder - 20 - 22 - 31 - 33

Turbo - City - Highway
Coupe FWD - 20 - 23 - 27 - 31
Spyder FWD - 20 - 23 - 27 - 31
AWD - 19 - 21 - 25 - 28

Are chips or performance modules worth the money? Do they work?

When talking about the Ebay resistors and modules.
1: No (Refer below for the why)
2: No

When talking about DSMlink.
1: Yes if you have an Eprom ECU and a turbo car
2: Yes if you have an Eprom ECU and a turbo car


Heres why:





Here are some cliff notes you should read. Or you can read the whole thread here.

Here are some responses that stand out:




















More information on why they won't work:

Does the Venom 400 module work?

No, they are junk and fraudulent and they should be sued but cant because they correctly advertise but no one realizes what they advertise. Do Not Buy!!!!

With the venom chip installed it tricks the ECU into thinking you have your accelerator pressed further than you do, which is why you have more acceleration at quarter throttle and half throttle and three quarter throttle but not where it actually matters, at full throttle. And that is because, the car already thinks it is at full throttle by three quarter throttle.

What is the top speed of my car?

Top speeds will obviously vary with the modifications to the vehicle. However, the top speeds for stock vehicles are in the following neighborhood:

- 1G AWD: around 140 MPH / 225 km/h
- 1G FWD: 140 MPH / 225 km/h
- 2G AWD: somewhere around 130-140 MPH.
- 2G FWD: some cars are speed limited to 130 MPH - see below for details

What changed throughout the years?

There are many differences, both major and minor, between various model years. To date, no comprehensive list exists which details all of the changes; to list them all is beyond the scope of this FAQ. A few of the high points are:

1990

* Inagural model year of the DSM.
* Pop-up headlights.
* Some high-end models had wheel covers.
* All ECUs had EPROMs. [Updated: see bottom of this answer!]
* Front brakes change during the model year.
* 1.8L models have the 4G37 engine, all others have the 4G63 engine.

1991

* ECU changes mean that 1991+ ECUs don't operate the 1990 tachometer correctly.
* Most ECUs had EPROMs.
* First model year with ABS available. ABS not available with limited-slip differential (LSD).
* All high-end models had alloy or mesh wheels.
* First year of the Galant VR-4 - 2000 sold in the American market.

1992

* Non-popup headlights introduced on all models.
* The first AWD Lasers were introduced.
* Few (or no) ECUs have EPROMs.
* ABS now available with LSD.
* The engine changes from the 6-bolt version to the 7-bolt version in April.
* Second and final year of the Galant VR-4 - 1000 sold in the American market.
* The last year of the Dodge 2000GTX.

1993

* "Big brake" 2-piston front calipers become standard on turbo models.
* 7-bolt engines are now standard.
* No ECUs have EPROMs.
* Diamond-Star Motors ceases to exist.

1994

* All cars built to California emissions standards - there are no "Federal" cars.
* The last year of the 1G car and the 1.8L NT models.
* The last year of the Plymouth Laser.

1995

* The inagural year of the 2G DSM.
* Significant changes to the engine, body, and electronics.
* New transmissions.
* All ECUs have EPROMs.
* Non-turbo models are based on the Chrysler 420A engine instead of the Mitsubishi 4G63 engine.
* OBD-II becomes standard on DSMs, along with two oxygen sensors.
* Mitsubishi begins using some substandard crankshafts, leading to crank walk on some 2G cars.

1996

* The first year of the convertible Spyder.
* The Mitsubishi 4G64 engine is offered, in the Spyder models only.
* ECUs stop having EPROMs.

1997

* Additional body changes from the 1995/1996 models.
* Minor changes to the ECU code.

1998

* Minor changes to the ECU code.
* After many years, Mitsubishi finally issues a recall on the AWD DSM transfer case.

1999

* The last year of the 2G car, and of the 4G63/AWD DSM platform.
* The last year of the Eagle Talon. Chrysler drops the Eagle marque.

What is the step by step process to rebuild my 2g non turbo engine for a turbo?

Click me

What is piston slap?

Click me

You can see from the video that the piston is able to "wiggle" in the cylinder. As it wiggles it creates a "slapping" sound. The engine they were showing you in the video wasn't damaged. It is made to do that.

In high performance turbo applications most performance shops/engine builders will leave more clearance between the piston and the cylinder by boring them a little bit larger than required for the pistons. This allows the piston to expand safely during periods of extreme heat cause by high RPM and high boost.

The downside of this technique is that you get that "slapping" sound with cold start ups because the bottom of the piston sometimes slaps the cylinder walls until the engine reaches operating temperature. It can be mistaken for valvetrain noises or other internal damage symptoms. So, if you get your new performance build up and running and you hear a weird noise don't be afraid unless it doesn't go away after the engine warms up.

What is DSMLink? How easy is it to use?

DSMLink is a product of ECM Tuning that can be found at www.DSMLink.com

basically, you place an order. they send you the total price and instructions on what to do, which consist of:

1. paying in full right away, or paying in full before they ship it back to you
2. shipping your ECU to them (yes you have to pay for this but they pay to send it back)

Turn around time is dependent on shipping duration but they usually do the install the day they get your ECU and send it back out within a few hours. I paid for mine yesterday and it's now sitting on my porch for me when I get home. But they are only 50-60 miles away from me so shipping was quick.

The YES part is that when you get your ECU with the new EPROM in it you also get a CD with their software and a cable with an adapter to plug it into the OBDII diagnostic port. They also give you the original EPROM back. Everything is wrapped very securely in it's own packaging.
Step 1 - Install the ECU and plug it in.
Step 2 - Hook the cable to your laptop, the other end to the plug, and plug it in to the vehicle. Key should be off. (this step can also be last)
Step 3 - install the software (software can also be downloaded from their site)
Step 4 - run software
Step 5 - turn key to run position and you are now online with your car "plug and play"

Tuning with it isn't as simple as "Play." Messing with the settings can cause a few problems if you don't know what you are doing. You can control almost everything from pulling engine codes, timing and airflow to just turning on the radiator fans whenever you want. The problems that can occur fall along the line of KABOOM, non starting vehicle, flooded vehicle, KABOOM, poor performance, KABOOM, dead battery, damaged diagnostic port, or damaged ECU (KABOOM being blown engine)

it's best to have someone do the tuning for you because most people don't know what an inverted CAS, dead time, MAF clamp, or a VE table are. Or if they even need to be adjusted for the application.

when you order they will also ask what you want your base settings to be. Even if you are modded I always like to use the factory settings for the base. That way if you do mess something up and can't figure it out you can revert back to OEM to start over.

Screen shots will show you the basic premise of the DSMLink

How do I know if I have a bad head gasket? How do I replace it? What do I need?

A bad or "blown" head gasket will cause a variety of problems and symptoms. The most noticeable would be to actually hear it pop and then see a ton of steam rolling out of the exhaust. But no matter what the signs are it is very important to understand that, if you suspect your car has a blown head gasket DO NOT DRIVE IT! If coolant/water mixes with oil you will have a much worse problem than just a gasket.

The symtpoms: (help me with the ones I missed)
1. oil looks like brownish coffee foam or milky white
2. oil in coolant overflow tank
3. sudden loss of power
4. suddenly having to fill your coolant overflow tank each day
5. car doesn't run or idle right out of the blue
6. sudden coolant leaks from the back or front of the head/block mating surface
7. white smoke/steam coming out of the exhaust pipe
8. smell of maple syrup coming from the engine compartment

The tests: (any others)
1. compression test. all cylinders should be within 10 psi of each other. if you have a test that looks like this: cyl 1-180psi, cyl 2-176psi, cyl 3-40psi, cyl 4-178psi you probably have a blown head gasket

The solutions:
1. take your car to a "good" mechanic and have them put a head gasket on
2. take a weekend and do it yourself (DIY)  timing_belt_replacement_write_up_all_engines.doc ( 703.5k ) Number of downloads: 86


The parts DSM 4g63:
1. Cometic head gasket
2. Mitsu metal head gasket. I always used this one and suprisingly Brent Rau used it on his 6 second 1300hp eclipse.
3. DO NOT USE organic OEM replacementhead gasket. make sure you use metal or you will be replacing it again.
4. HKS head gasket if you really want to go nuts

The parts N/T 420a:
1. Fel-pro head gasket set
2.Head bolts (required replacement for this engine)

The parts 1.8L 1g:
1. Fel-pro head gasket


NOTE, READ ME: ANY time you have the chance to do any kind of engine work that involves taking the timing belt off it is always a great idea to replace the belt, pulleys and tensioner. Now, use discretion, if you just changed it 2000 miles ago it, most likely, won't need replacing but if you can't remember the last time or you are coming up to 60k miles just go ahead and do it.

DSM Timing belt kit
DSM Individual timing parts
420a timing belt
420a timing belt and bearings
420a hydraulic timing belt tensioner
420a mechanical timing belt tensioner conversion
1.8L Timing belt

*you can find parts anywhere, I just used those websites for examples*