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> F A Q For All 1g,2g Cars
EMC 3000gt
post May 5 2008, 05:54 PM
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One of the many complaints I receive everyday is how the new users and owners are treated. Some are kids with their first car and others are older people who just can't seem to find the clip on the air box. We need to welcome these new users with open arms to this forum, into our community.

One thing that some people fail to realize is that new members are a very valuable part of this community - for the sole reason that as time passes, old members sell their cars and the "new" users are the ones who are buying our old cars. It is these new members that will help keep this board flowing for years to come. Many of these new users bring new ideas and personality to this board, and we need to welcome this if we plan on seeing this forum grow.

Many of the older users may be tired of hearing the same questions asked over and over again. Yes, it gets annoying and old, but we were all there once. I can't even tell you how long it took me to comprehend how a turbocharger works. SOme of these common question are: not knowing the true difference between the trim models, not sure what the common problems are with these cars, ect.

This thread is intended for us members to work together and put together a Frequently Asked Question sticky that is dedicated to New Owners. One easy-to-find thread that will cover nearly everything that is repeatedly asked in this section.

Now I could have very easily written this entire thing my self but now that wouldn't be very friendly to my fellow "older" Users. This is a community thing and I want other opinions.

Below is a list of "new owner" commonly asked questions that I can think of, and if you have a moment I would like you to select one and write a detailed response to it. Consider this the LAST time that we'll ever have to write the answer to these questions (as they will be referred to by very many different new owners multiple times), so - by all means - please take the time to answer it thoroughly.

By contributing you will be adding your knowledge to the community. You will be helping clear up the clutter in the pinned section. You will have helping hand in keeping a newcomer from me coming down on him or her.

I will be monitoring this thread and keeping it clean and organized. If you notice any incorrect information please post up a revision. Don't worry about cluttering up the thread as on the next post will have direct links to the answers


This is not a my car is broke thread.

Thank you, in advance, to anyone that contributes to building this new FAQ.

~Eric


Feel free to add other questions. As stuff is answered I will delete from this list.

Once again thank you and from now on just redirect these questions to this thread... once it has some answers.

~Eric
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EMC 3000gt
post May 6 2008, 10:52 AM
Post #2


Resident Honda Owner
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Drives: 1992 3000 GT TT, 2004 Acura RSX Type - S



What are the specs for the first generation car?

1990-1994 (1G) Eclipse/Talon/Laser

* Eclipse: Base FWD model equipped with a 92 hp naturally-aspirated engine 1.8 L 8-valve SOHC 4G37 engine

* Eclipse GS: Upgraded FWD model with slightly more equipment

* Eclipse GS DOHC: Upgraded FWD model equipped with a 136 hp naturally-aspirated 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC 4G63 non-turbo engine**

* Eclipse GS-T: Top FWD model equipped with a 180-195 hp* turbocharged 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC 4G63T engine

* Eclipse GSX: AWD model equipped with a 180-195 hp* turbocharged 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC 4G63T engine

*1990 manual transmission turbocharged models were rated at 190 hp, whereas 1991 and later manual transmission turbo models were rated for 195 hp. The automatic models were rated at 180 hp due to smaller fuel-injectors and turbocharger.

Production
1990–1994
Body style
3-door hatchback
Layout
FF/AWD
Engine
1.8 L 92 hp I4
2.0 L 135 hp I4
2.0 L 195 hp I4
Transmission
5-speed manual
4-speed automatic
Wheelbase
97.2 in.
Length
172.8 in.
Width
66.7 in.
Height
51.4 in.
Fuel capacity
15.9 US gal.

* Talon Base: equivalent to Eclipse Base
* Talon ESi: equivalent to Eclipse RS & GS
* Talon TSi: equivalent to Eclipse GS-T
* Talon TSi AWD: equivalent to Eclipse GSX


Info Found Here -- Thank You: serial, Pwee05, and 4g63Attack!
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EMC 3000gt
post May 6 2008, 11:01 AM
Post #3


Resident Honda Owner
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Group: Super Mod
Posts: 7,032
Joined: 18-October 06
Member No.: 30,873
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Location: Tri-State Area
Drives: 1992 3000 GT TT, 2004 Acura RSX Type - S



What are the specs for the second generation car?

1995-1999 (2G) Eclipse/Talon

* Eclipse: Base FWD model equipped with a 140 hp 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Chrysler 420A engine
Base - No tachometer, standard antenna, No rear defroster, no driving lights, 14" steel wheels with covers or center caps

* Eclipse RS: Equipment Upgraded FWD model equipped with a 140 hp 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Chrysler 420A engine
RS - Tachometer, 14" alloy wheels, optional spoiler

* Eclipse GS: Equipment upgraded FWD model equipped with a 140 hp 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Chrysler 420A engine
GS / GS Spyder - Power antenna, driving lights, cruise control, body colored door handles, 16" alloy wheels, lower body cladding, spoiler, rear windshield washer (except Spyder)

* Eclipse GS Spyder: Convertible FWD model equipped with a 141 hp 2.4l 16-valve SOHC Mitsubishi 4G64 engine

* Eclipse GS-T: Hardtop FWD model equipped with a 210 hp turbocharged 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Mitsubishi 4G63 engine
GS-T - 16" Alloy 5 spoke wheels, Grey painted panel around lower body paneling (1995–96), larger spoiler (ONLY on 1997–99)

* Eclipse GS-T Spyder: Convertible FWD model equipped with a 210 hp turbocharged 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Mitsubishi 4G63 engine
GS-T Spyder - 16" Alloy 5 spoke wheels

* Eclipse GSX: AWD model equipped with a 210 hp turbocharged 2.0 L 16-valve DOHC Mitsubishi 4G63 engine
GSX - 17" wheels after 1997, 1995–96 cars had 16" alloys, Grey painted panel around lower body paneling (1995–96), larger spoiler (ONLY on 1997–99)

Production
1995–1999
Body style
2-door convertible
3-door hatchback
Layout
FF/AWD
Engine
2.0 L 140 hp I4
2.4 L 141 hp I4
2.0 L 205 hp I4
2.0 L 210 hp I4
Transmission
4-speed automatic
5-speed manual
Wheelbase
98.8 in.
Length
172.2 in.
Width
68.3 in.
Height
51.6 in.
Fuel capacity
15.9 US gal.

* Talon Base: equivalent to Eclipse Base
* Talon ESi: equivalent to Eclipse RS & GS
* Talon TSi: equivalent to Eclipse GS-T
* Talon TSi AWD: equivalent to Eclipse GSX


Info Found Here -- Thank You: serial, Pwee05, and 4g63Attack!
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EMC 3000gt
post May 6 2008, 11:17 AM
Post #4


Resident Honda Owner
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Location: Tri-State Area
Drives: 1992 3000 GT TT, 2004 Acura RSX Type - S



What kind of gas mileage can I expect?


Manufacture claims -

First gen:

Non-Turbo - City - Highway
22 - 23 - 27 - 32

Turbo - City - Highway
FWD - 19 - 21 - 23 - 28
AWD - 18 - 20 - 21 - 25


Second Generation


Non-Turbo - City - Highway
Coupe - 21 - 22 - 28 - 30
Spyder - 20 - 22 - 31 - 33

Turbo - City - Highway
Coupe FWD - 20 - 23 - 27 - 31
Spyder FWD - 20 - 23 - 27 - 31
AWD - 19 - 21 - 25 - 28
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EMC 3000gt
post May 6 2008, 03:37 PM
Post #5


Resident Honda Owner
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Group: Super Mod
Posts: 7,032
Joined: 18-October 06
Member No.: 30,873
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Location: Tri-State Area
Drives: 1992 3000 GT TT, 2004 Acura RSX Type - S



Are chips or performance modules worth the money? Do they work?

When talking about the Ebay resistors and modules.
1: No (Refer below for the why)
2: No

When talking about DSMlink.
1: Yes if you have an Eprom ECU and a turbo car
2: Yes if you have an Eprom ECU and a turbo car


Heres why:

QUOTE(CodyRocks @ Apr 15 2007, 09:55 PM)
the computer is trained to correct fuel based on airflow. so if you increase airflow, the computer will increase fuel. it basically counter corrects itself.
[right][snapback]93105[/snapback][/right]




Here are some cliff notes you should read. Or you can read the whole thread here.

Here are some responses that stand out:


QUOTE(bueshy @ Apr 5 2007, 01:14 AM)
im pretty sure that those are junk and that they will only give you problems
[right][snapback]91622[/snapback][/right]



QUOTE(fullmoon @ Apr 5 2007, 06:47 AM)
...no they don't work...

...I was like you lokking for an easy way to get power and trust me you gotta have cash so start fatting little piggy today.
[right][snapback]91634[/snapback][/right]


QUOTE(BigRedMonster @ Apr 5 2007, 08:34 AM)
Dam, those "performance chip" e bayer's are gonna be the death of me!
[right][snapback]91650[/snapback][/right]


QUOTE(4G63Attack @ Apr 5 2007, 11:08 AM)
Junk! don't even waste your time, money, and money on those junks.
[right][snapback]91665[/snapback][/right]


QUOTE(4G63Attack @ Apr 6 2007, 02:28 AM)
like what i have stated above, it is junk, trash, stupid box making stupid people think that they are getting more hp but in fact just junk.
[right][snapback]91741[/snapback][/right]


QUOTE(bueshy @ Apr 6 2007, 09:20 AM)
dude, million, dont do it
[right][snapback]91758[/snapback][/right]



QUOTE(utiheadbanger @ Apr 6 2007, 11:14 AM)
Resistors, whether harmless or not, have no place in major sensor wiring unless they are put there FROM THE FACTORY.

Don't be cheap, get a super AFC or some sort of REAL tuning device.

Oh, by the way, you do know running TOO LEAN will detonate your engine, right?  Just a thought.
[right][snapback]91766[/snapback][/right]


QUOTE(CodyRocks @ Apr 5 2007, 11:00 PM)
IT WILL MAKE YOUR CAR BLOW UP AND YOU WILL DIE. THE END.
[right][snapback]91732[/snapback][/right]


More information on why they won't work:

QUOTE(pwee05 @ Apr 16 2007, 12:57 PM)
WOT settings are not considered "economical."  that is one reason why the ECU leaves these alone.

think of your ECU almost like a tiny conscious robot inside of your engine with the sole duty of protecting the engine and making sure it runs correctly. 

when you are at lower throttle percentages the little robot guy wants to maintain its factory settings because it was told those settings provide the smoothest operation and the best gas mileage.  when you try to change these settings the little robot doesn't like that because someone told him those weren't correct.  your settings, in his opinion, will not allow the engine to run the best and get the best gas mileage,,,so he changes them back.  you do it again, and he gets even more pi$$ed and changes them back.  you disconnect your o2 sensor causing the engine to throw a code (knocking the little robot out with a big hammer) and as the little robot falls he hits an auto pilot switch (open loop).  now there are base settings with no one to get mad about your corrections and you can do what you please, but your check engine light will stay on.  if you disconnect the o2 sensor while the engine is running until you see the check engine light, as soon as you erase that code, or unplug the ECU or battery for more than 1 hour, you will wake up the little robot guy and he will start messing with your corrections again.

at WOT the little robot guy (conscious, or knocked out) isn't tall enough to reach the knobs he needs to recorrect your corrections.  he is also preoccupied with timing and emissions sensors.  however, the more you run at WOT the more practice the robot guy gets and as soon as he notices the step ladder in the corner, he may just try to screw up your settings.  always keep an eye out for the sneaky robot guy using tools like, AEM wideband, EGT, boost guage, AFC, etc.

the factory settings run a little rich for a few reasons:
1) protect the engine from teenager lead foots that beat on them
2) provide the smoothest idle
3) get good gas mileage, but not TOO good because then people won't spend as much on gas
4) allow people to run cheaper low octane fuel
5) allow for higher stock n/a compression ratios and still be able to run low octane fuels
6) run a little cooler
7) increase the number of applications per engine and engine control system
8) anything I missed :P
[right][snapback]93233[/snapback][/right]
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EMC 3000gt
post May 6 2008, 03:43 PM
Post #6


Resident Honda Owner
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Joined: 18-October 06
Member No.: 30,873
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Location: Tri-State Area
Drives: 1992 3000 GT TT, 2004 Acura RSX Type - S



Does the Venom 400 module work?

No, they are junk and fraudulent and they should be sued but cant because they correctly advertise but no one realizes what they advertise. Do Not Buy!!!!

With the venom chip installed it tricks the ECU into thinking you have your accelerator pressed further than you do, which is why you have more acceleration at quarter throttle and half throttle and three quarter throttle but not where it actually matters, at full throttle. And that is because, the car already thinks it is at full throttle by three quarter throttle.
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EMC 3000gt
post May 7 2008, 10:26 AM
Post #7


Resident Honda Owner
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Group: Super Mod
Posts: 7,032
Joined: 18-October 06
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Location: Tri-State Area
Drives: 1992 3000 GT TT, 2004 Acura RSX Type - S



What is the top speed of my car?

Top speeds will obviously vary with the modifications to the vehicle. However, the top speeds for stock vehicles are in the following neighborhood:

- 1G AWD: around 140 MPH / 225 km/h
- 1G FWD: 140 MPH / 225 km/h
- 2G AWD: somewhere around 130-140 MPH.
- 2G FWD: some cars are speed limited to 130 MPH - see below for details
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EMC 3000gt
post May 7 2008, 10:31 AM
Post #8


Resident Honda Owner
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Group: Super Mod
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Drives: 1992 3000 GT TT, 2004 Acura RSX Type - S



What changed throughout the years?

There are many differences, both major and minor, between various model years. To date, no comprehensive list exists which details all of the changes; to list them all is beyond the scope of this FAQ. A few of the high points are:

1990

* Inagural model year of the DSM.
* Pop-up headlights.
* Some high-end models had wheel covers.
* All ECUs had EPROMs. [Updated: see bottom of this answer!]
* Front brakes change during the model year.
* 1.8L models have the 4G37 engine, all others have the 4G63 engine.

1991

* ECU changes mean that 1991+ ECUs don't operate the 1990 tachometer correctly.
* Most ECUs had EPROMs.
* First model year with ABS available. ABS not available with limited-slip differential (LSD).
* All high-end models had alloy or mesh wheels.
* First year of the Galant VR-4 - 2000 sold in the American market.

1992

* Non-popup headlights introduced on all models.
* The first AWD Lasers were introduced.
* Few (or no) ECUs have EPROMs.
* ABS now available with LSD.
* The engine changes from the 6-bolt version to the 7-bolt version in April.
* Second and final year of the Galant VR-4 - 1000 sold in the American market.
* The last year of the Dodge 2000GTX.

1993

* "Big brake" 2-piston front calipers become standard on turbo models.
* 7-bolt engines are now standard.
* No ECUs have EPROMs.
* Diamond-Star Motors ceases to exist.

1994

* All cars built to California emissions standards - there are no "Federal" cars.
* The last year of the 1G car and the 1.8L NT models.
* The last year of the Plymouth Laser.

1995

* The inagural year of the 2G DSM.
* Significant changes to the engine, body, and electronics.
* New transmissions.
* All ECUs have EPROMs.
* Non-turbo models are based on the Chrysler 420A engine instead of the Mitsubishi 4G63 engine.
* OBD-II becomes standard on DSMs, along with two oxygen sensors.
* Mitsubishi begins using some substandard crankshafts, leading to crank walk on some 2G cars.

1996

* The first year of the convertible Spyder.
* The Mitsubishi 4G64 engine is offered, in the Spyder models only.
* ECUs stop having EPROMs.

1997

* Additional body changes from the 1995/1996 models.
* Minor changes to the ECU code.

1998

* Minor changes to the ECU code.
* After many years, Mitsubishi finally issues a recall on the AWD DSM transfer case.

1999

* The last year of the 2G car, and of the 4G63/AWD DSM platform.
* The last year of the Eagle Talon. Chrysler drops the Eagle marque.
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pwee05
post May 8 2008, 08:12 AM
Post #9


Bleeds black and gold
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Location: Lancaster, PA
Drives: 1996 Talon AWD. Built, but no longer drives: 1997 mitsubishi eclipse RS; 1990 Talon AWD; 1995 Talon AWD, 1997 Talon AWD. Seems like a pattern



What is DSMLink? How easy is it to use?

DSMLink is a product of ECM Tuning that can be found at www.DSMLink.com

basically, you place an order. they send you the total price and instructions on what to do, which consist of:

1. paying in full right away, or paying in full before they ship it back to you
2. shipping your ECU to them (yes you have to pay for this but they pay to send it back)

Turn around time is dependent on shipping duration but they usually do the install the day they get your ECU and send it back out within a few hours. I paid for mine yesterday and it's now sitting on my porch for me when I get home. But they are only 50-60 miles away from me so shipping was quick.

The YES part is that when you get your ECU with the new EPROM in it you also get a CD with their software and a cable with an adapter to plug it into the OBDII diagnostic port. They also give you the original EPROM back. Everything is wrapped very securely in it's own packaging.
Step 1 - Install the ECU and plug it in.
Step 2 - Hook the cable to your laptop, the other end to the plug, and plug it in to the vehicle. Key should be off. (this step can also be last)
Step 3 - install the software (software can also be downloaded from their site)
Step 4 - run software
Step 5 - turn key to run position and you are now online with your car "plug and play"

Tuning with it isn't as simple as "Play." Messing with the settings can cause a few problems if you don't know what you are doing. You can control almost everything from pulling engine codes, timing and airflow to just turning on the radiator fans whenever you want. The problems that can occur fall along the line of KABOOM, non starting vehicle, flooded vehicle, KABOOM, poor performance, KABOOM, dead battery, damaged diagnostic port, or damaged ECU (KABOOM being blown engine)

it's best to have someone do the tuning for you because most people don't know what an inverted CAS, dead time, MAF clamp, or a VE table are. Or if they even need to be adjusted for the application.

when you order they will also ask what you want your base settings to be. Even if you are modded I always like to use the factory settings for the base. That way if you do mess something up and can't figure it out you can revert back to OEM to start over.

Screen shots will show you the basic premise of the DSMLink
[right][snapback]162657[/snapback][/right]

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pwee05
post May 20 2008, 11:53 AM
Post #10


Bleeds black and gold
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Drives: 1996 Talon AWD. Built, but no longer drives: 1997 mitsubishi eclipse RS; 1990 Talon AWD; 1995 Talon AWD, 1997 Talon AWD. Seems like a pattern



How do I fix my noisy lifters? How can I increase my oil pressure?


http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...indpost&p=99133
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pwee05
post May 21 2008, 10:51 AM
Post #11


Bleeds black and gold
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Group: Admin
Posts: 5,983
Joined: 2-January 06
Member No.: 19,248
Status: Offline
Location: Lancaster, PA
Drives: 1996 Talon AWD. Built, but no longer drives: 1997 mitsubishi eclipse RS; 1990 Talon AWD; 1995 Talon AWD, 1997 Talon AWD. Seems like a pattern



4g63/4g64 Timing Belt Procedure

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...indpost&p=94618

refer here also: http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...ndpost&p=162916
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EMC 3000gt
post May 23 2008, 04:52 PM
Post #12


Resident Honda Owner
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Group: Super Mod
Posts: 7,032
Joined: 18-October 06
Member No.: 30,873
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Location: Tri-State Area
Drives: 1992 3000 GT TT, 2004 Acura RSX Type - S



I want to make my FWD an AWD. What is involved?

Good question.

Read this article first

Then click here, read through and then you may ask questions in this thread

If you begin this project you may then start your own thread.
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