Can I use a 4g63 head on my 4g64?

Using a 1g head...
http://www.4g64.com/users/raycer97/1g_parts.htm

Using a 2g head...
http://www.4g64.com/users/raycer97/2g_parts.htm

thanks to Rob for the links :beer:

Why is my overdrive slipping in my automatic trans? How do i replace the end clutches?

I noticed a thread about this a while ago. If you notice your overdrive is slipping in your auto trans the usual cause is that the end clutches have gone bad. Click the link below to find parts and to learn how to replace them


http://www.mirage-performance.com/EclipseG.../endclutch.html

How To Hook Up A Boost Gauge And Boost Controller

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...ndpost&p=174764

What turbo do I have? It says TD05H

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...ndpost&p=178788

Leak down test. What is it? How do I do it?
Link provided by: Rob


http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/leakdown.htm

Turbo rebuild, is it something I can do myself?
Link provided by militaryman


http://www.vfaq.com/mods/Turbo-rebuild.html

Will an SAFC, AFC work on my 420a non turbo car? How do I wire it up

yes, refer here:

wiring diagram for SAFCII on 420a car

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=SAFC

What spark plugs are best?

NGK part numbers for your application as follows:

BPR6ES is stock replacement
BPR7ES is one step colder (14-20psi)
BPR8ES are two steps colder (20-30 psi)
BPR9ES one step colder (20-30 psi + nitrous)

What are the first mods for my turbo car? Free mods?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/2gtu...stage0power.php

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2gupgradepath.htm

What is the first thing I should do to my car after I buy it?

1. Check all maintenance records if available
2. Check brakes/repair as needed
3. Replace spark plugs and wires
4. Change oil if needed/check level
5. Check timing belt for tension and wear/ replace as needed
6. Check coolant for degradation/contaminants/level
7. Check tire pressure/adjust as needed
8. Buy Hayne's or Chilton's manual and put it under your pillow at nite
9. Check lights/repair as needed
10. Check for mods, or anything installed incorrectly

**Order may vary as people have specific preferences **

Read Here: http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t37508-di...lon-eclipse.htm

What are some good first mods for my Non-Turbo Car?

1. Cold air intake system
2. High flow 2.5" or 3" exhaust
3. New spark plugs and wires
4. Light weight Crankshaft pulley
5. Ported throttle body


**Order may vary as people have specific preferences**

What should I look for when buying my car?

1. Maintenance records
2. DRIVE IT!!!!
3. Body damage
4. Metal shavings in oil
5. Severely rusted brakes
6. Fluid spots where the vehicle is sitting
7. Tire pressure
8. Owners manual
9. Mods: aftermarket products - turbo, injectors, gauges, air fuel controllers, ETC. Anything you think is out of the ordinary ask the seller
10. Severely worn tires (specifically grooves/cuts that circle the tread)
11. Rubber on lower body panels
12. Smoke out of the exhaust
13. Engine/suspension/transmission noises
14. Sloppy shifting
15. Coolant contaminants
16. Sellers eagerness/pushiness to sell
17. Seller seems nervous as you inspect the vehicle
18. Seller is under 25 years old (don't hate me for this guys, you know you beat your cars until you got older :P )
19. Caked oil and dirt in unusual places under the hood
20. Some oil around valve cover, slight dirt. (usually means they didn't try to overclean the engine bay trying to hide something. dealers do clean, but not "white glove" clean

Please add on to anything I missed

What is the 60K tuneup?

60k tune up is when your car reaches a mileage divisible by 60. IE 60, 120, 180, 240(if it lives this long :P ) At this point anything "perishable" should be inspected and/or replaced. Anything that could cause engine damage by not inspecting is a mandatory item and is in bold

1. Timing belt, pulleys, tensioner
2. Spark plugs and wires
3. Struts and coil springs
4. Brakes
5. Oil, drain plug, oil leaks
6. Coolant
7. Tires
8. Suspension
9. Exhaust system
10. turbo shaft play (if applicable)
11. Air filter
12. Transmission filter and oil (filter applicable to automatics only)

did I miss anything?

My car is smoking. What does it mean? What does the color of the smoke indicate?

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...ndpost&p=168910

What are the problems with these cars? How much does it generally cost to fix it?

Problems = lack of maintenance, hard driving

If you maintain your car every 60k miles, change the oil every 3k miles and don't beat the hell outta it you will be just fine.

Common issues not related to beating your car up can include:

1. Front O2 sensor failure
2. Crank position sensor failure
3. Coolant temp sensor failure
4. Exhaust system rust out
5. Dirty air filter
6. Recall items such as lateral arm ball joints and awd transfer case(2gs)
7. Suspension wear: struts, springs, ball joints, bushings
8. Spark plug and wire failure
9. Fuel filter clogging
10. Fuel pump relay (N/T 2g)

The attached file (html format) contains instructions along with pics of how to cure shifter issues of the 1G models. I found this at dsm.org

Attached File(s)
 1st_Generation_Shifter_Mod.htm ( 37.2k ) Number of downloads: 22

I found this at dsm.org
I can provide detailed instructions on how to remove the door panels if needed...

Power window fix for 1G DSMs

So you've noticed that your power windows have slowed down a lot, or the window seems to be popping out of its' track and not sealing when it gets to the top of its' travel. This is usually caused by:
· Loose fasteners on the window system
· Dirty window tracks
The fixes are, in increasing order of difficulty:
1. Clean and lube the rubber channels in the window frame everywhere you can get to them without tearing the door apart. Do this by getting any rubber/vinyl cleaner, putting it on a rag, and wiping the channels until the rag comes out clean. This may take a LOT of cleaning. Then lube with NuVinyl, anti-static ArmorAll, or even dielectric grease (YES, this grease works well and does not gum up if put on VERY lightly and then rubbed off).
2. Remove the door panel, and clean/lube the bottom section of the rubber channels you couldn't get to in #1. This will take raising and lowering the window to get all the areas.
3. Check the bolts that hold the window to the window bracket (this is the potmetal bracket that sandwiches the glass and rides on the guide bar) to make sure they are not loose. This rarely happens, but I have seen it happen.
4. Loosen the bolts that hold the guide bar (the mostly vertical tubular bar that the window bracket rides on) to the door, and move it forward or back to get the window to go up perfectly straight (not a lot of adjustment here, but it doesn't take much).
5. Loosen the window guides (the metal brackets covered in bristly material) a little so they don't push on the window so hard.
Do these in order. If 1 doesn't work, try 2, etc. If you do all of these, you are pretty much guaranteed your windows will work properly (they have on the half-dozen DSMs I have done it to).
I will try to add pics of the above steps the next time I have to work on the windows for a DSM.


For those of you having a problem with your power windows going off
track, I recently had to fix this problem on my car that required a
bit of work to resolve. If your problem is a slow moving window,
a shot of silicone spray in the end guide tracks works great for me.
The problem I'm refering to is related to the window not sealing
properly at the top of its travel. I had a gap at the upper left
corner of the drivers window (viewing it from inside the car).
This applies to 1st gen. cars - don't know about newer cars.

There is a window "lift track" in the center of the door that
allows for adjustment of the window attitude as it ascends and
descends the length of the track. This adjustment entails loosening
the top and bottom securing bolts and moving the track laterally to
change the window attitude. The adjustment is made at the top bolts.
Problem is, there's a *minimal* amount of adjustment (and I mean
minimal). The top two holes are slotted to allow a small amount of
left/right movement of the track which, in my case, wasn't enough to
correct the problem. You may have enough adjustment to correct your
problem and can stop here. In my case, I had to widen the slotted
holes until the right window attitude was achieved. For this I used
a Dremel tool with a grinding bit which took all of a few seconds.
I suppose a rat tail file would be OK too but there's not alot of
room to file.

The final adjustment is really trial and error of adjusting the
lift track, then observing the window along its travel as you raise
and lower it until you've got things just right. Keep at it until
there's no binding of the window along its travel and you get a nice
tight seal at the top. While you're in there, give the end guide
tracks a shot of silicone spray. Worked wonders for me.
(Best attempt at ASCII representation follows):

^
\
\
Window travel (up/down along lift track)
\
\
v
----------- (Widen the slots at these two bolts
\ \ for increased adjustment travel)
<-- \ o o \ --> Lateral adjustment changes window attitude
\ \
\ \
\ lift \
\ track \ o = Bolts
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ \
\ o o \ (Loosen these bolts to adjust. This is
\ \ just a pivot point for the track)
-----------

Productions numbers for 1G Laser and Talon from wikipedia.com

Plymouth Laser (no AWD) Year Eagle Talon (AWD available)
42,105 1990 32,708
30,198 1991 33,537
24,090 1992 27,945
14,300 1993 26,740
5,284 (partial year) 1994 24,040
not in production 1995 25,066
not in production 1996 15,100
not in production 1997 9,788
not in production 1998 4,308

should add fuse diagrams

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/problem-di...m-location.html

good info to have

Excellent info guys! :beer: