Triton 4ga54 Timing Chain Rattle? - Mitsubishi-Forums.com
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-10-2014, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Guys,

got an early Triton 1987 , carby.
plate says 4GA54- engine # M572U03714

Terrible rattle when it starts up and goes away in a couple of minutes, guess the timing chain has stretched and the tension gets working later/

Can someone send a timing diagram to the thread , haven't got a manual yet and have some time to fix?

Cheers
Berridale.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-10-2014, 05:19 AM
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Hi .. is yours a ME MH MJ ?

Your australian trition I... need to know what motor you have under the bonnet


4GA54 so far i worked out its a 4= 4 cyl ....G= gasoline...A= aluminium head ..... possibly a 4G54 engine may be fitted

. repair manual not free .....pay pal
https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/139...1983-1994-model

This is the timing chain kit for a 4G54 motor with balance shafts
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Timing-chain-ki...2b0d&_uhb=1

there is the adjustment (a cover on the timing cover two bolts)
...
if you need much more detailed pictures and how its done post again (most chain kits dont have bright links you have to mark the chain with paint at all the dots)

did you know you can buy a balance shaft elimination kit ?

....
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Chain rattle,

yes it is this type of engine in the picture.

The rattle , does it come from the chain that drives the balance shaft?

The balance shaft elimination kit , just a new short chain and a guide?
Can't be anything more ?


Cheers
Berridale.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 11:50 AM
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Alot of times if the tensioner rail or the passive rail is equally worn out , not keeping tension or support of the chain. This will cause the rattle , As the chain tolls over the lose part thats supposed to support it , and the side to cause a little tension. This can be said for both sides. Eliminating the balance shaft will not help. The balance shaft is usually eliminated on the 4G6 series of engines for enthusiasts . Not on this engine. Also after a certain age the chain and the tension rail and tensioner and slide rain (passive rail) do need to be serviced (replaced) they do not stay new forever and do wear down. So eliminating something will not help

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-11-2014, 04:24 PM
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this is my write up on the magna some bits wont apply to your triton
..
'the difference for the trition is the engine is straight
..
the water pump is on the front ..

I have broken an oil pump by not being careful removing the chain guide at the pump the timing chain got caught up
..
so adjusted some bit s in this write up i may have missed something
..
timing chains
Tools
/floor jack/car stands
10 12,14,17,22,34 metric sockets/spanners
scraper blade /pliers
i use a rattle gun to undo chain cogs

permatex sealants

Never Cut the head gasket"
to get the timing chain or cog through

sorry if there are double ups of info

timing mark has to be at TDC
undo crank pully it is on a key way then remove timing cover

the crank pully should be 22mm


the cog rest bolt will need to be undone to get the cog and chain off

remove engine sump 10 mm bolts on base of timing cover

remove rocker cover and undo the two blots inside the head next to the cam cog 12mm holds top of timing cover

if you dont have to take the sump off stuff some rag in the gap so no bolts or rubbish enter the sump

you may have to remove the radiator to make it easier to work on
undo the alternator and air conditioning unit 12 mm undo power steering pump and bracket 14 and 12 mm and any thing else in the way
undo timing cover bolts 12 mm may have different lengths



mark the timing positions dont move the crank or cam
remove the chain guides of the front chain that runs the balance shafts and the oil pump (undo oil pump cog bolt hold the bolt head closest to it to stop it tuning )
watch the oil pump guide
pull off the crankshaft chain cog
undo the top cog support bracket and chain guides 22 mm

refit a new timing cover seal on the way back in

Counter balance set up
one must not assume the chains were fitted properly
so you mark the old chains before removing them

mark the dots and links of both counter balance shafts to ensure they are at the correct position when installing the new chain

the timing chain can be set wrongly also if not bolted to the camshaft
the bright link position is at the dot on the top timing cog which is set at 3 oclock
the crank keyway needs to be at 3 oclock and the top cam is in its locating dowel at 12 oclock ........... number one cyl compression

the two balance shaft sprockets are the same part
the oil pump sprocket is fitted on the reverse side
to the other balance shaft sprocket both sides have dots
make sure after fitting the new chains
the chains and guides touch and run straight


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-12-2014, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Fantastic instructions!

Many thanks.
Will pull it apart in the morning ...
The rattle goes away when the engine warms up, pressume chain is stretched a lot and the tensioner takes up the slack?
Will do the whole kit while i am there.

I put a Datsun 2000 engine in a Fiat tractor a while back , stripped the engine when it was in the tractor and rebuilt it, wasn't sure if i could fit it in the tractor so that's why i did it.

Found the tensioner had popped out and was jammed /cocked.

Cheers
Berridale.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Chain Rattle,

got the cover off.
I could see from the top the cam chain was loose on the tensioner , once i got the cover off i could see the problem, the chain is not that worn but the tensioner does not lock the slack up .
Does the tensioner have a ratchet inside?

Noticed there is a washer between the foot of the tensioner and the tensioner body to take up the slack is this standard or ..?

I can see the chain-guides are worn a bit but the main problem is the tensioner.

*further below the oil pump chain is stretched and the cog is is worn on the pump, as is the chain-guide.
Can you buy the oil pump sprocket and where ?

Presume the balance eliminator just used a very short chain and the chain-guide to tension the chain?
*Is the sprocket on the balance shaft the same as on the oil pump?
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-13-2014, 11:34 PM
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Noticed there is a washer between the foot of the tensioner and the tensioner body to take up the slack is this standard or ..?

this is not normal ....some one has been there before you.. an old sigma owner for sure

the cogs dont normally wear the guides all do

the timing chain tensioner foot is just a spring

the tensioner and rachet systems came in the tr/ts magnas shouldnt be in your motor

the small cogs are the same one reversed you can get away with swapping them to wear the other side of the cogs



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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-14-2014, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, spotted the kit.
How long does it take to install the kit ?

Oil pump cog is worn, teeth rounded , done 400,000 klms. Chain very loose.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-14-2014, 11:10 AM
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The tensioner should be replaced , teh spring gets weak after time , but also the tensioner uses oil pressure to pick up tension and is prone to bleed down with age , especially when the slide rail and tension rails wear down and the chains start to pick up slack and get loose

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 06-29-2014, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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I adjusted the pump chain , tensioners were just serviceable.
The cam chain must have been replaced at some point , so put two new tensioners in and the slack was taken up from the plunger.
I runs silently and there are no oil leaks!

However it has done 400,000 klms so i am getting all the bits to re-ring the engine very soon.

Very slight rattle , like a little end rattle.. might even be some tin-ware rattling?
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 07:18 PM
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Run a heavier than standard grade HPR Penrite oil in it and see if the extra oil pressure helps.
(I have no connection to Penrite, but my experience is it's a gift for older engines, especially Mitsy ones).
have used it for years in Holden V8's, Holden 6's,Falcon 6's, Mits 4 and 6, and more.
It works for me.
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