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03 Lancer Timing Belt.updated .2015

60K views 15 replies 8 participants last post by  mitsubishi123 
#1 ·
My lancer is my 2nd Mitsubishi, 1st was a Mirage. I did my own Timing belt 4 times over its lifespan with out any problems. My 03 Lancer is ready for it now.. Am I in for basicly the same experiance, or should I be prepared for a bigger challange? The biggest difference I can see is the engine is mounted 180 from the Mirage but generally looks the same. My dealer quoted me nearly 600.00 for the job. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Any direction to online manuals would be a plus!!!! Thanks Ed
 
#3 ·
I just changed my timing belt on the 2006 ES at 115000 km, Mitsu says 98 000 km, so stretching it a bit. Some tips on the timing marks. There are green dots, on mine, at the timing marks on the sprockets. The crank sprocket faces straight up, has a small stamped triangle mark, and on mine the green dot. The cam sprocket faces to one side, there is a pointer on the block, and a slot on the end of the correct tooth, as well as the green paint dot. Line these up before belt removal, and replace in the same place. Be aware that tightening the tensioner can move the cam sprocket. I checked and it had moved one cog off. I moved the cam sprocket one tooth clockwise, and then tightened the belt, moving the sprocket counter clockwise when installing the tensioner. Be sure to have the tooth on the crank sprocket straight up. Roll the crank over 2 turns and check the marks again, lining up the crank first, and then checking alignment at the cam sprocket where it is easier to see. hope this helps.
 
#4 ·
I have 2002 Lancer ES with 191k miles. My timing just belt broke. It was only 83k miles since last timing belt change. I get mixed information on whether this is interference engine or not. I like to find direction as to what I need to do next, or is it even worth trying to fix the car, given the mileage it's got. However, the engine still runs great (getting about 32 MPG highway) but I often have to pour 1/2 quart motor oil for every few thousand miles because they burned off. Thanks.....
 
#7 ·
After broken timing belt on 2002 Lancer, I replaced damaged valves, but no damage to pistons. When I put new timing belt, I align the timing marks on the cam sprocket, then on crank sprocket.

After I put tensioner on, no matter how accurate I can align them, the timing mark on the crank sprocket is always off by 3/4 to 1 sprocket tooth width wide.

I tried to use hand to turn the crank sprocket for 1 turn or so to verify mark alignments, but sprocket is so tight.

Is it OK I can put things back as is done with it, or is the alignment off? Is there a tool to help turn the sprocket?
 
#8 ·
I will put the timing belt instructions pdf back on this post --- will be the same for the 02 oancer

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php...ost&id=5133


getting the belt tension right is a bit tricky some times


try this

put the balancer bolt back on with a few washes and dab of oil --- and tighten that bolt just enough to turn --- but easy enough to undo

-- turn the motor clockwise only

wonder if the top cam is on TDC with the number one cylinder valves on the rock

turn motor over twice to double check timing belt and marks are correct

timing marks -cant be a tooth out for a new belt
 
#10 ·
Thanks for info so far.

It's automatic, took out spark plugs and manifolds are opened, so no sealed compression. After the cam and crank lined to markers w timing belt on, try to hand rotate crank pulley 2 turns to make sure markers still aligned, before I start put things back. Was able to hand rotate crank pulley for about 3 o clock,
after that can't rotate anymore with my strength. Don't know why.

Had an expert engine machinist replacing 9 of 16 valves, cleaned/polished the whole head. I would expect he got the valves installed, lined up properly.

Could the valve hitting piston the reason why I cannot rotate beyond 3 o clock? How to check if cam/valves is lined up properly from the machinist?
 
#12 ·
Hi,

I inspected the valve open/close patterns by turning cam one full turn:

1. @ marker position: piston 1 top (all valves closed), piston 2 bottom (intake valves closed, exhaust valves open), piston 3 bottom (intake valves open, exhaust valves closed), piston 4 top (all valves closed)
2. @ 3 o clock from marker: piston 1 bottom (intake valves closed, exhaust valves open), piston 2 top (all valves closed), piston 3 top (all valves closed), piston 4 bottom (intake valves open, exhaust valves closed)
3. @ 6 o clock from marker: piston 1 top (all valves closed), piston 2 bottom (intake valves open, exhaust valves closed), piston 3 bottom (intake valves closed, exhaust valves open), piston 4 top (all valves closed)
4. @ 9 o clock from marker: piston 1 bottom (intake valves open, exhaust valves closed), piston 2 top (all valves closed), piston 3 top (all valves closed), piston 4 bottom (intake valves closed, exhaust valves open)
5. @ marker position: same as step 1

Looks like I am OK, any comment highly helpful, thanks. I will align crank marker, then close the engine.
 
#14 ·
After installed the belt, got another issue trying to install the timing belt lower cover:

Is the crank sprocket flange suppose to be installed before or after the lower cover?

For install before the cover, the lower portion of cover cannot be completely closed and has clearance to the engine block.

Attached are the pictures.

Thanks for any comments.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
I just did the timing belt on an '04 Lancer, when I removed the crank pulley the flange was right behind it OUTSIDE the lower cover. This belt was serviced before but I'm not sure when, car was just purchased with 117k. I also tried to see if it went the other way, inside the lower cover but there is no clearance just as you noticed. Therefore I installed i the way it came out - Lower Cover, then Flange then Crank Pulley. Everything turned out fine.
 
#16 ·
Hi,

Finally got timing belt fully assembled, did two manual turns on the pulley and timing marks were aligned, all wires were attached. However, after ran the engine for less than 1 min, smoke came out of
cylinder head to engine block area, exhaust got really really hot, but cylinder head cover is not hot. When I checked oil dip stick, I did not see oil level splashing over the stick but
at a calm level. I remembered I did accidently slow hand turn crankshaft pulley counterclockwise for about quarter turn - could this had damaged the oil pump which caused the
overheat (and smoke)? The car had been non-operational for over 9 months. Thanks for any advice.
 
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