99 Eclipse GS - Wont stay running - Mitsubishi-Forums.com
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-03-2019, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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99 Eclipse GS - Wont stay running

I apologize in advance if what I say isn't coherent, I don't know much about fixing cars, or the terminology.

I bought the eclipse from a guy who said he was told it had a bad piston, and he didn't want to put money into fixing it. I bought a kit and ran a compression test and it passed, so no bad pistons, or so i'm told.
I replaced the MAP/MAF sensor, and Throttle Position Sensor. I also replaced the spark plugs.
These are the codes that the scanner is throwing.

P0107 - Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor/barometric pressure (BARO) sensor -low input
P0108 - Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor/barometric pressure (BARO) sensor -high input
P0113 - Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor -high input
P0118 - Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor -high input
PO122 - Throttle position (TP) sensor A/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor A -low input
PO123 - Throttle position (TP) sensor A/accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor A -high input
P1478 - Evaporative Emissions System Leak Detected

I'm not exactly sure what else would need to be replaced. When the car is starting, it seems like it's getting a lot of air, but not enough fuel. Sometimes it stays running for a little bit, but most of the time it fails to stay running. It tends to die as soon as I give it gas. It doesn't really stay running long enough to clear any codes.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 08:32 PM
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Ok when the car is cold and radiator cap is off water shoots out on startup then it was hard to start back up
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawna Tacker View Post
Ok when the car is cold and radiator cap is off water shoots out on startup then it was hard to start back up
Are you talking about the same car as the OP?
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-24-2019, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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That has nothing to do with my post, but yeah, if the cap is off thats normal.

To add to my original post, I've replaced all everything that has to do with the codes, and the car still won't stay running. All codes except for the coolant temp sensor are still there.

I think it's the ECU, but my mechanic disagrees.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 07:17 PM
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You know how bad earthing on a rear light cluster can make the tail lights flash out of sync with the indicators? The point is that one bad connection can cause several errors. Perhaps check the connections? (Disclaimer: I always say this.) Especially near the ECU.
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