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549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finished the job of putting the battery in the trunk. It was a pain. It does work though. It took me and my friend about 6 hours. Mainly because we'd never done it before. If anyone wants an explanation of how to do it just ask. I will elaborate.

549 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok I go the cheap route all the time and make things work just fine so you can change a few things if you don't agree. I bought a marine battery box from Autozone for 7 bucks. The air tight boxes are over 70. The reason for the air tight box is that when a battery charges it releases harmful fumes. Keep in mind that once in place it is difficult to reinstall the rear panelling. I had to cut my panels a bit but it fits. That being said here's the list.

Things you will need are:
15 feet 0-2 gauge wire (0 preferred, I used 2 gauge)
battery box (mine's a marine box from Autozone)
silicone (unless you have air tight box)
insulating foam (unless you have air tight box)
hack saw (unless you have air tight box)
3 butt connectors for 0-2 gauge
4 wire mounts from lowe's (1/2 inch I believe)
new terminal connectors
1 1/2 ft any high gauge wire
electrical tape
(and/or shrink tubing)
crimpers and clippers
1 ft fuel line hose
drill with bit same size as 0-2 gauge, bit same size as fuel hose (unless you have air tight box), 1/4 inch bit, and bit same size as mount screws.

Ok here we go:
Remove your battery from the stock location. Remove the plates that it sits on also. The plastic and the metal. Be sure to set the battery on one of those plates. It should never sit on concrete very long. It can loose it's charge. Remove the panels from the back of the trunk to give you access to your screws and holes.

Clip the terminal connectors off of the stock wires. Be sure to leave the ground that connects to the body, this will ensure a good circuit. The small white wires will be grouped. Put two together and connect a butt connector to them repeat on the other two. Connect a butt connector to the main positive wire. This next part may seem slightly ghetto rigged but we were at Lowe's five minutes before they closed trying to figure something out and this is what we came up with. Remove the set screws that aren't being used from the butt connectors of the small wires. take the small gauge wire and wrap it around the 3 butt connectors and thread it through those holes. This creates enough gauge to hold enough power flow. Connect the new 15 foot cable to the butt connector of the main positive. Wrap this assembly very tightly with electrical tape or shrink tubing.

Now you have to run your wire. The mounting points under the car are already made. Under the car you will find about 5 wires being held up running the length of half the body. Take the screws out holding these up (they're angled). Before you mount the wire take the wire mounts and make sure that the holes in them are big enough for the screws that you removed. If they are not; drill them out to fit. Mount three in the places you removed them from. Now run the wire behind the engine against the firewall. At the bottom of the bay against the firewall behind the cross-bar you will see a small crack. Run the wire through here. This ensures that you don't have to cross the exhaust. Run the wire through the mounts and when you get to the back axles thread it over the axle and through the mess that's back there so it will stay. If I remember correctly it goes under the fuel fill channel.

From this point the panels should be out of the trunk so all you see is metal. On the right side is where I placed mine. So if you put it somewhere else you'll have to rethink the previous paragraph. Behind the wheel well you'll see two nylon screw mounts in the floor. The one that's closest to the wheel well will be removed and drilled out to fit the wire through. The one at the back of the car will stay and this is where you will mount the box.

If you have an air tight box ignore this part:
Take the box and set it in the car where you want it. (I put mine a little too close the side and it's difficult to put the lid on) The drain hole in the floor for the hatch is where you will drain the fumes. Take the nylon screw mount out of the back (the one you will mount with) and drill a hole from under the car into the box where you want it to sit. Put the nylon mount back in and screw it down. Mark the box where the hole will be for the wire (the nylon mount that was removed). Also mark where the hole in the box will be for the vent hose (drain for hatch). Drill these holes out to fit their filling elements (hose and wire). You can now run the hose and the positive cable. When you run the hose you will have to trim the rubber under the car to fit.

Now place the battery in the box. It can be a pain. You now have the vented bottom with a positive cable. Trim the cable to fit and attach your terminal connector to the wire. Now that the battery is in drill a hole in the box close to the back of the car for the negative. Put it away from the terminal head so it's easier to remove the battery. Take the left over wire mount that wasn't used and look for the bolt that will be close to being under the box. It's a 12mm I believe. this is your grounding point. Scratch the paint off around it to ensure a good connection. Crimp the mount around the left-over wire. Bolt it down and run the wire against the back of the car through the hole in the box that was made last. Attach your other terminal connector. All that's left now is the lid.

(I do suggest this part, but I have had no issues with a now-leaky box) The lid needs to be air tight for safety reasons. Spray the insulating foam in the lid to fill it in. You will be removing parts of the lid. It will not fit in the corner of the car because, well, it was made for boats. So the hachsaw comes into play and you cut to fit. Make sure you fill in any holes made with foam. I used silicone around the edges to createa seal between lid and box but you probobly could use the foam and squeeze it down. If you want to go through it you can remove the battery take the box out and rub vasoline around the edges of the box and then spray foam in lid and place it on top. As the foam expands it could create a better seal and the vasoline will prevent it from sticking.

Attach your cables, check your power in the car and the put the lid on and strap it down with the strap that came with it.
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