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Hey everyone,

I have a 2006 Endeavor that had an issue a few weeks back. Wouldn't charge and I had to jump it. Would go for about 5 minutes and then die again... as the voltage was weak. Gauges went nuts etc.

Took it to a shop and they said the alternator went out. They replaced the battery and the alternator.

I drove it home fine. The other day I drove to the end of my street.. it died. Would restart no problem and drive until I came to a stop.

I was buying a new truck anyways, was going to trade it in but they were not going to give me anything for it. So I planned to sell it outright.

So after a few weeks I finally got around to looking at the Endeavor and noticed when the A/C Is ON, the car runs pefect. Can drive it and stop and go and stop and go and stop and go... ok you get the point..

Minute the A/C turns off.. car dies..

What the heck? Idle control valve? Anyone else have this issue?

Thanks for any input..

Have about 140K miles on the clock. Timing belt and all that done at 100K..

New plugs and valve cover seals at 120K..
 

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I would guess an electrical problem.

Check all wires and connectors in engine bay (bare wire, corroded connector, etc.)

Start with the ones going to and from AC.
 

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This is a bit of a long shot but still something to check. The belt should have been replaced with the alternator. If it is slipping it could be part of the issue and engaging/disengaging the ac is helping reduce the slippage. Again long shot but still check it out. Also actually test the new battery could be faulty already.
 

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This vehicle has electronic throttle body , with the AC on the PCM has a set designated throttle position for P&N and Drive ranges , sometimes this happens when the battery or anything is disconnected for some time , the PCM will not have the retained memory that remembers desired Throttle position AC off in Drive range and , simply put the throttle body is closing further than it needs when coming to a stop. Is there any MIL?
 

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Hey everyone,

I have a 2006 Endeavor that had an issue a few weeks back. Wouldn't charge and I had to jump it. Would go for about 5 minutes and then die again... as the voltage was weak. Gauges went nuts etc.

Took it to a shop and they said the alternator went out. They replaced the battery and the alternator.

I drove it home fine. The other day I drove to the end of my street.. it died. Would restart no problem and drive until I came to a stop.

I was buying a new truck anyways, was going to trade it in but they were not going to give me anything for it. So I planned to sell it outright.

So after a few weeks I finally got around to looking at the Endeavor and noticed when the A/C Is ON, the car runs pefect. Can drive it and stop and go and stop and go and stop and go... ok you get the point..

Minute the A/C turns off.. car dies..

What the heck? Idle control valve? Anyone else have this issue?

Thanks for any input..

Have about 140K miles on the clock. Timing belt and all that done at 100K..

New plugs and valve cover seals at 120K..
First, clean the throttle body. If that doesn't work, check the negative battery terminal cable. Had mine replaced and the issue was resolved. Then again, my car would just idle very low, then sputter out. Worth a shot.
 

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I had the same problem with another make/model. I changed out all of the sensors, one at a time and the crankshaft position sensor was the culprit.
 

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I had the same problem with another make/model. I changed out all of the sensors, one at a time and the crankshaft position sensor was the culprit.
I know this is old, but having the same issue.
2004 Endeavor sputters and dies at idle.
There is NO idle air control valve!
Throttle-by-wire, no control cable.
Seems to be a tiny screw on the front driver's side of the throttle body with a small lock nut.....what's this doing?
Cleaned completely all of the upper components, throttle body, Mass Air, manifold sensor. No change.
The CPS looks like a possibility.
Is there a way to check if it is working properly?
TIA
Dean
 

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I think Kit has it right. I have a similar issue. Anytime the battery is reconnected you have to start the car and let it idle for a while. It will recalibrate the idle position. If you instead just (replace battery and) drive off it may have idling issues. I recommend disconnecting battery for 30 mins, reconnect it and let it idle for 10mins.

This vehicle has electronic throttle body , with the AC on the PCM has a set designated throttle position for P&N and Drive ranges , sometimes this happens when the battery or anything is disconnected for some time , the PCM will not have the retained memory that remembers desired Throttle position AC off in Drive range and , simply put the throttle body is closing further than it needs when coming to a stop. Is there any MIL?
 
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