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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
So I recently bought a 2008 lancer and I've noticed that the power locks are not working. I can hear the door locks trying to fire (a clicking sound coming off each door) but it's like they do not have enough power to actually unlock it. I've checked the 'powerlocks' fuse and I have checked the IOD fuse and they are good. I've also tried disconnecting the battery to reset the car but no joy. Does anyone have any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I've just noticed that the passenger backdoor is functioning correctly. The other 3 doors still do not lock
 

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Sounds to me like not enough volts.

Check battery first - and something lowering volts - like loose battery connection or corroded poles. (12V or less - not good)

Ground could be in each door seperately - should be OK.
Worry about wire going from battery to each door - but since it´s all 4 except one - start at battery and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Does anyone know how the central locking is wired? Are all the doors on the same circuit? Why would the back passenger door work and not the drivers, seeing as the driver door is closest to the battery?

I checked the battery terminals and they were good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks man, So you think that 1 broken actuator would stop 2 doors from working and still leave 1 functioning? I'm busy today with college work but I'll read up on it later tonight. After I have researched it, I was thinking of taking each off each door panel to see how many volts are flowing in and out of each actuator. I'll post my results tomorrow. Also, Is there a simple way of testing an actuator while I've got the door panels off?
 

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Every part has tolerances.
For electrical parts voltage.
One might work at 11.9V but not below that - the next might work at 11.8V and above.
If you only have 11.85V - one works - the other doesn´t. That´s why I went with the voltage.
The actuators move parts - so if they are well lubricated they have less resistance - that already might do the trick.

Test actuator with 12V direct from battery.

There is a contoller (probably relay) ´sending´ power to the actuators.
If that switch (relay) is coroded - less volts - one works - the other 3 don´t.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh that makes sense. First thing I'll check is how much power is coming in and going out of the controller. If that is good, I'll start on the drivers side door and work round the car checking voltage and actuators. I'll tell u how it goes in a couple days.

Thanks guys - I've got a plan :)

BTW, I've notice that when I turn the key in the drivers door, the central locking doesn't even attempt to fire
 

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Another thing to check while you have the doors taken apart is that the push rods are moving freely. I had some auto body work done on the outlander years ago and when they put the doors back together they were exceptionally sloppy with the plastic seal / tar stuff that goes inside the door. This was causing the push rod to work manually (with extra force) but the actuator didn't have enough strength to overpower it.

When I put the sound deadening in the doors and removed all that plastic sheeting over the summer I had to be careful not to repeat the same issue and not stick the deadening mats to the push rods.
 

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QUOTE: BTW, I've notice that when I turn the key in the drivers door, the central locking doesn't even attempt to fire

Don´t know about that one - but it could be normal.
Failsafe to open door if battery in FOB is dead and be able to drive the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey guys, Sorry for the late reply but I've been busy with college. I found the door lock controller and I have taken voltage readings of every wire going in and out. Everything is documented in the attached photos. I'm guessing the wires that are only giving out 10 volts are of interest.

BTW, I'm confident at soldering so getting components on and off the board shouldn't be a problem.



[attachment=19650:photo_1.JPG]
[attachment=19658:photo_3.JPG]
[attachment=19666:photo_5.JPG]
[attachment=19674:doorLockVoltage1.JPG]
[attachment=19682:doorLockVoltage2.JPG]
 

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You are getting there ... good job with all the pics etc.

Battery is good and fully charged (12.5 - 12.6V and with 12.55 you are spot on)

Let us know what it was so that others can profit from your good work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I can't find what the wire colours are anywhere on the net - I can't even find where to buy the whole unit from. Does anyone know the proper name of the "door lock control unit"?

It's gotta be that 10 volt white+blue giving fluctuating readings that's the problem. I'm debating taking the driver door panel to see where it goes and then run 12 volts through it - on the other hand I think that's a good way of frying my CPU and I'd rather not mess up the interior. The second plan is to replace the relay and a couple components on the board, and just see if it fixes it. Replacing the relay is the easier option so I'll probably do that first if I can't find any info online
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi Guys,
So I decided to give fixing the power locking another crack. We established that the central module was the problem so I went and bought a cheap $20 module off amazon. My plan is to have 2 modules, the new cheap one controlling the doors, and the Mitsubishi original controlling the alarm. I have attached photos of the instructions that came with the new module. The power and earth are no problem but I have no clue how to wire the 6 "central locking" wires. All the photos and information in the above photos are still relevant so does anyone have an idea about which wires go to the doors and how to wire the new module?
Thanks
[attachment=22018:IMG_0889.JPG]
[attachment=22026:IMG_0890.JPG]
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So I just put the new module in and it's got the same fault. Grrrr. Has anyone got any ideas? I have no clue now
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (gi12345 @ Jan 15 2016, 06:15 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
So I just put the new module in and it's got the same fault. Grrrr. Has anyone got any ideas? I have no clue now[/b]
The new one being the cheap one from amazon?

IMHO it only helps to avoid frustration if you stick with an original part - either new or used.

Or maybe in your case you could consider adding a switch inside the car to open the other doors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
This has gone from bad to worse. I took the door panel off and whoever has been in there before has absolutely destroyed it. There is a cheap $20 door lock system which someone has crudely wired with speaker wire and held in place by wood screws. They have cut the sheath of the cable from the old door actuator and tried to clamp the cheap actuator onto the cable inside. No wonder it didn't have enough power, it was trying to move the Mitsubishi motor mechanism.

I really don't know what to do now, the whole thing is a mess. IDK whether to try and wire it from scratch, repair the Mitsubishi wiring, or just give up. I don't even know the original fault now, for all I know there are no motors in the actuators. I think I'm going to get the actuator out next, and then find out where the wiring from the connector actually goes. Then I might see if I can get the motor to fire while just by running 12 volts through it once I am sure about the wiring (which I'm not currently).

What would be a huge help, Can anyone tell me what the basic principle of a Mitsubishi locking system? I understand how cheap ones work but there are 5 wires coming out of the Mitsubishi actuator - blue, pink, brown, black, red. Does anyone know what these wires do and what they should be taking in or kicking out? I've been pouring over wiring diagrams on the net, but non of the wire colours match and I'm an amateur at reading them at best.
 
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