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I have a 2010 4cyl Outlander ES with over 130k on it, and I figured it was about time to change the serpentine belt and idler pulley. After removing the right wheel and plastic inner fender piece to have a look, I have more questions than when I started.

1) It appears to have 3 idler pulleys. Is this correct?

2) Are all the idler pulleys the same size and part#?

3) Does the belt operate with a spring-loaded tensioner? Which pulley is it?


Any info would be much appreciated.
 

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For anyone who may run across this thread on a search, there are definitely three pulleys. The two idler pulleys are a Gates 36323, and the spring tensioner pulley is a Dayco 89161. Since the vehicle had 136k miles on it, I replaced all three of these and the serpentine belt (Bando 6PK2565)

A few things will make this job go much easier for you. Here is how to do it:

Loosen the right wheel (passenger side) lug nuts, but don't remove them.

Jack up the right side of the vehicle by using the jack point under the body behind the front wheel, and not the lower control arm. Jack up the vehicle just enough to remove the wheel.

Make sure the vehicle is secure and won't fall off the jack. Blocking the other wheels and a well-placed jack stand or two might suffice. You WILL be getting under the vehicle.

Remove the right wheel.

(Now would be a good time to inspect your front break pads for that wheel.)

While facing the right brake disc, Remove the plastic engine compartment dust shield to the right of the CV axle and lower control arm/brake disc. You do this by removing the necessary 6 or 8 plastic snap rivets. Do this by using a small screwdriver to carefully pop out the center snap of the rivet about 1/8-1/4 inch. Then, grab the center snap using your fingers and make sure it's backed out as far as it will go without pulling it out. Then, you should be able to grab the outer flange of the rivet and pull it out. Try not to break them, as you will re-use these.

Carefully remove the dust shield and it will expose the crankshaft/pulley, bottom idler pulley, and serpentine belt.

Open the hood and remove the coolant reservoir by removing the one bolt (12mm wrench) that holds it in place. You can carefully lay it out of the way without removing the hose. This will give easy access to the top pulley and tensioner.

I'm not sure what the metric size of the idler pulley and tensioner pulley bolts are (maybe 16mm?) , but a 5/8 wrench fits quite nicely. Now, you can make the job easy if you have a LONG reach 5/8 box-end wrench. (And, I mean LONG.) I promise you, it's worth the time and trouble to go buy one for this job if you don't own one because you will need the leverage, and there isn't enough room to get a socket and breakover bar in there. Don't try and remove the belt just yet.

Draw yourself a picture of the belt routing! I searched for an hour on the internet and couldn't find one detailed picture of the belt routing for this engine! I ended up trying to figure out the routing on my own after removing the belt, and it was quite a challenge.

To remove the belt, put the 5/8 wrench SQUARELY on the tensioner pulley bolt at about the 2 or 3 o'clock position and rotate counter-clockwise. This will raise the tensioner arm and release tension on the belt. The bolt will not loosen because it is a left-hand thread bolt. However, do not try to force it beyond about a 25-30 degree counterclockwise rotation, or you will break something. It shouldn't take much movement to loosen the belt enough to slip it off of the top pulley or surrounding pulleys. Remove the belt from the vehicle.

Next, remove the tensioner pulley and two idler pulleys. Replace them with the new ones. Remember, the tensioner pulley bolt is a left-hand thread, and loosens by rotating clockwise.

Once you have the new pulleys installed, you can put on the new belt. Refer to the drawing you made yourself, and route the new belt in place. I found it easier to route it over all pulleys except the top idler pulley. Make sure the ribs of the belt are sitting squarely in the ribs of all the device pulleys. To do this, pull up on the belt with your hand and look/feel around the pulleys with your hands. While manually taking the slack out of the belt, put the long reach 5/8 wrench back on the tensoiner pulley bolt at the 2 o'clock position and pull up on the tensioner. If you have the belt sitting firmly in all of the grooves in all of the device pulleys, it will give you just enough slack to slip it on to the top idler pulley where it belongs. Once the belt is in place, release the pressure on the tensioner and the belt should tighten up. Carefully observe that the belt is sitting properly in all the grooves and on all the pulleys.

With the car still sitting safely on the jack and supports, start the engine and VISUALLY make sure the belt is running true and properly in all the devices and pulleys. DO NOT STICK YOUR FINGERS ANYWHERE NEAR THE RUNNING BELT OR ANY PULLEYS! Turn off the engine.

Take your time from this point on!

Reinstall the coolant tank.

Reinstall the dust shield with the snap rivets. Insert the rivets into the holes by pushing on the outer flanges and not the center of the rivets. Once the rivet is snugly in the hole, push in the center flush with the flange.

Reinstall the right wheel, but only snug up the lug nuts. (you will tighten them later when the car is off the jack.)

Lower the car off the jacks and supports.

Tighten the lug nuts on the right wheel.

Make the appropriate entry in your maintenance log.

YOU ARE DONE!
 

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There actually is a far bit easier way if not replacing all the pulleys , and yes its all Metrics. Great write up for people learn ing their way around the 4cyl of these models. Its greatly appreciated that you wrote this up. Many Thanks
 

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For anyone who may run across this thread on a search, there are definitely three pulleys. The two idler pulleys are a Gates 36323, and the spring tensioner pulley is a Dayco 89161. Since the vehicle had 136k miles on it, I replaced all three of these and the serpentine belt (Bando 6PK2565)

A few things will make this job go much easier for you. Here is how to do it:

Loosen the right wheel (passenger side) lug nuts, but don't remove them.

Jack up the right side of the vehicle by using the jack point under the body behind the front wheel, and not the lower control arm. Jack up the vehicle just enough to remove the wheel.

Make sure the vehicle is secure and won't fall off the jack. Blocking the other wheels and a well-placed jack stand or two might suffice. You WILL be getting under the vehicle.

Remove the right wheel.

(Now would be a good time to inspect your front break pads for that wheel.)

While facing the right brake disc, Remove the plastic engine compartment dust shield to the right of the CV axle and lower control arm/brake disc. You do this by removing the necessary 6 or 8 plastic snap rivets. Do this by using a small screwdriver to carefully pop out the center snap of the rivet about 1/8-1/4 inch. Then, grab the center snap using your fingers and make sure it's backed out as far as it will go without pulling it out. Then, you should be able to grab the outer flange of the rivet and pull it out. Try not to break them, as you will re-use these.

Carefully remove the dust shield and it will expose the crankshaft/pulley, bottom idler pulley, and serpentine belt.

Open the hood and remove the coolant reservoir by removing the one bolt (12mm wrench) that holds it in place. You can carefully lay it out of the way without removing the hose. This will give easy access to the top pulley and tensioner.

I'm not sure what the metric size of the idler pulley and tensioner pulley bolts are (maybe 16mm?) , but a 5/8 wrench fits quite nicely. Now, you can make the job easy if you have a LONG reach 5/8 box-end wrench. (And, I mean LONG.) I promise you, it's worth the time and trouble to go buy one for this job if you don't own one because you will need the leverage, and there isn't enough room to get a socket and breakover bar in there. Don't try and remove the belt just yet.

Draw yourself a picture of the belt routing! I searched for an hour on the internet and couldn't find one detailed picture of the belt routing for this engine! I ended up trying to figure out the routing on my own after removing the belt, and it was quite a challenge.

To remove the belt, put the 5/8 wrench SQUARELY on the tensioner pulley bolt at about the 2 or 3 o'clock position and rotate counter-clockwise. This will raise the tensioner arm and release tension on the belt. The bolt will not loosen because it is a left-hand thread bolt. However, do not try to force it beyond about a 25-30 degree counterclockwise rotation, or you will break something. It shouldn't take much movement to loosen the belt enough to slip it off of the top pulley or surrounding pulleys. Remove the belt from the vehicle.

Next, remove the tensioner pulley and two idler pulleys. Replace them with the new ones. Remember, the tensioner pulley bolt is a left-hand thread, and loosens by rotating clockwise.

Once you have the new pulleys installed, you can put on the new belt. Refer to the drawing you made yourself, and route the new belt in place. I found it easier to route it over all pulleys except the top idler pulley. Make sure the ribs of the belt are sitting squarely in the ribs of all the device pulleys. To do this, pull up on the belt with your hand and look/feel around the pulleys with your hands. While manually taking the slack out of the belt, put the long reach 5/8 wrench back on the tensoiner pulley bolt at the 2 o'clock position and pull up on the tensioner. If you have the belt sitting firmly in all of the grooves in all of the device pulleys, it will give you just enough slack to slip it on to the top idler pulley where it belongs. Once the belt is in place, release the pressure on the tensioner and the belt should tighten up. Carefully observe that the belt is sitting properly in all the grooves and on all the pulleys.

With the car still sitting safely on the jack and supports, start the engine and VISUALLY make sure the belt is running true and properly in all the devices and pulleys. DO NOT STICK YOUR FINGERS ANYWHERE NEAR THE RUNNING BELT OR ANY PULLEYS! Turn off the engine.

Take your time from this point on!

Reinstall the coolant tank.

Reinstall the dust shield with the snap rivets. Insert the rivets into the holes by pushing on the outer flanges and not the center of the rivets. Once the rivet is snugly in the hole, push in the center flush with the flange.

Reinstall the right wheel, but only snug up the lug nuts. (you will tighten them later when the car is off the jack.)

Lower the car off the jacks and supports.

Tighten the lug nuts on the right wheel.

Make the appropriate entry in your maintenance log.

YOU ARE DONE!
do you know how to replace serpentine belt for 2014 2.0l fwd outlander? Many thanks
 
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