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This is broken up into a couple sections. Modifying, History, Common issues, The Active Suspension, Search

The vast majority of people who buy a 3000GT non turbo are under the impression that one day they will do the twin turbo conversion. The sad reality is that 99% of them will not. Of those 99% about half will have their car blow up. The rest will sell and buy a turbo 3000GT. Another misconception is that BPU upgrades on the non turbo models actually do something. Nothing noticeable will happen. There are no chips or programmers available. Buy your self a set of cams and cam gears. Taking the rear seats out of this car will not make it any faster, sorry not going to happen. It is not a race car it is a Grand Touring Car.
If you bought an automatic… enough said.

If you have a turbo car the first upgrades should be intake, downpipe, cat back exhaust, boost controller and boost gauge. From there you will need to decide what you actually want to do and how much power you want to make. That is a topic in it self.
If you have a non-turbo, you can do intake, headers, cat-back, (not going to net much real world wheel gains)

The Mitsubishi 3000GT
The Mitsubishi GTO
The Dodge Stealth
Guess what, with the exception of a couple body panels and the GTO being Right hand drive no difference. They did have different submodels but they are the same car.
GTO stands for Gran Turismo Omogolato which is translated from Italian as a grand touring race. The reason it was named the 3000GT for stateside use was because Mitsubishi did not want to confuse buyers with other cars such as the Pontiac GTO and the Ferrari GTO. 3000 GT stands for 3 Liter Grand Tourer. Dodge Stealth, Dodge has always had nifty names.

1. The gauges are just estimates they are not actual readings. EXPECALLY the boost gauge, do not use the stock boost gauge to judge boost.
2. Yes, you have to take the entire intake plenum off to change all six plugs, no changing the front three is not good enough, no its not hard to get to the last three.
3. Changing this car from any configuration to rear wheel drive is useless, go by a Z
4. The GENERAL consensus is that body kits do not look good on the 3000GT, Maybe a front lip and some new rims but dump your money into the motor.
5. Anyone who thinks a non turbo 3000GT is fast or quick, is sadly mistaken.
6. You only need one blow off valve.

That little annoying green flashing light on your dash that says tour/sport is for your active suspension. If it’s blinking the system has broke and defaulted to the Sport mode. If you want to attempt to fix it you can check the four connections which are on top of each strut, than I would check the computer and by check I mean replace, or if you don’t mind it always being in sport mode just disconnect the computer and that will turn off the tour sport light. Looking in the trunk to the right there is a plastic panel with one screw, remove it and unclip the two plugs.
As with any car if you lower your car you need to get matching struts. Some people will argue that you don’t need to if you only drop an inch, but I don’t see why you would not do the complete job correctly the first time.

When using the search feature only type key words such as, “PWR ECO” for what does the PWR ECO button do? Or, “Tour Sport” for what does the Tour Sport light mean?

Remember to do your timing belt and water pump every 60,000 miles.

Also, keep in mind as with any other car,

Cheap, Fast, Reliable.

Take a look at the list, now pick two because that’s all you are able to have. (Which ever two you pick are the ones your car will be, the other one is what the car will not be.) has a complete walk through for just about anything concerning this car.

And as a friendly reminder, please use the search feature. ;)

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