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馃専Balance shaft removal kits available for sale馃専

I have now sorted out postage worldwide, the EBay listing under this item number will allow worldwide postage when selected

353867794201

Grab your kit if you were outside of the normal postage zones as it is now available to you wherever you are
Hi, I am also a U.K. member of a facebook group called Mitsubishi 4n14 problems. The balance shaft drive coupling failure is an extreemly common problem with this engine world wide. It is probable that ALL unmodified engines (Diesel 2.268cc MIVEC 130KW) of this type are effected to some extent but not all owners realise. Some who have contacted Mitsubishi dealers report that Mitsubishi claim they are not aware of any such fault. However it appears that the original replacement parts that were available do NOT cure the problem and the fault reoccurs and so now the original parts are now longer available. A new design of parts is now being supplied at great expense. The most obvious symptom is a loud ticking noise from the sump area at idle. This general dies down when the engine accelerates. The ticking is sever wear of the drive coupling of the balance shaft module and mating components. If no action is taken the gear driving the shaft may also suffer tooth failure which will cause sever immediate engine failure. I consider this is potentialy a dangerous fault. Many people have removed the sump to gain acces and then removed the drive shaft coupling to the balance module. The balance module is left in place but no longer rotates. If not already damaged the drive gear and shaft can be left in place. It is reported there are no sever engine vibrations as a result of removing the balance shaft. I have not yet removed my coupling and consider this is a Mitsubishi engine design fault and should be a recall due to the risk of dangerous engine failure. I would be interested to hear about others with this engine fault
 

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RVR, 1999. 2.4 gdi.
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4n14, thanks for posting. Donsybid man what a drag馃サ. I guess the 86 Rolla with low mileage sounds good now. Hey, my car is **** too. 4g64, some say Evo engines can get 600 hp. All I want is no rattle and smoke. Nevermind, I know what not to buy 馃き馃榾. See you at the finish mate馃弫.
 

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Important update on my case with balance shaft issue. Through Outlander owner who experienced the same problem I managed to track down Mitsubishi dealer in Norway. This dealer is admitting the balance shaft is badly designed and the best fix is to remove it. They have already done it for a number of customers. My car is scheduled for this procedure next week. I am told it will take 2 hours and will cost about 500鈧.
The Outlander owner who informed me about this dealer has been driving fail free for 6 months now with the shaft removed.
For me this is a breakthrough. Before taking to this dealer I spoke to two others in my area. Both of them claimed this is a procedure which can cause big damage. They didn鈥檛 want to take any responsibility.
If not arranging for a recall of this engine at least Mitsubishi should accept the fix of removing the shaft as a safe one and instruct its dealerships to perform it.
Hi. i have just got the quote from the mitsubishi dealer in aalesund regarding this issue. can you you share the mitsubishi dealer that can remove this?
 

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Hello, I'm from Spain. Does anyone know if repairing with Mitsubishi (even if it is expensive) the problem disappears forever? Or he will go out again over time. That is, the repair kit has the manufacturing fault corrected or because it is poorly designed everything will break again? Sorry for my English, I'm using a translator, if you don't understand me well, I'll try again.
 

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2013 Outlander 2.2 Di-D GX-5
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Hi everyone, new member here. I bought a 140k mile 2013 2.2 Di-D 4N14 GX-5 Outlander off Copart a few weeks ago. One of the keys had a tag with an ominous "DO NOT START" written on it. Thanks Copart.... I took it for a brief drive around my housing estate and as soon as the oil began to warm up the low oil pressure light came on and I babied it the few hundred metres home. So it's got oil supply issues.

I had already ordered the Zedperformance shaft and coupler to replace the soft Mitsubishi one, so today I removed the sump expecting to find either a sludge filled pick-up or worst case a damaged pump. However, prior to reaching the pump it was apparent that dynamic balancer's coupler shaft has failed big time - it looks like perhaps the missing teeth have jammed the drive gear and the resultant shock has caused the crack to the ali castings. Such a terrible design.

I ran out of time and haven't yet manage to get the timing chain cover off (any tips for removing the crank pully bolt?). How likely is this to have also physically damaged the oil pump? Is the loss of oil pressure likely due to the housing in the first photo being snapped in half (it does seem to have what is usually a fairly restrictive oil feed incorporated into it so I the fact this is now cracked open that it is dumping pressurised oil straight back into the sump rather than around the engine).

The bottom photos shows some bits of metal fished out of the sump - any clues as to their identity?

Thanks!
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design
Gas Automotive tire Auto part Machine Metal


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle

Nickel Gas Rim Machine Auto part

Safety glove Gas Glove Nickel Service

Wood Road surface Organism Grey Asphalt
 

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I've just been reading through this thread as I've not been here for a while but WOW!
Now I know what to do to my car as it's been noisy since we bought it and 5 years later still rattling! I went to a main dealer for a normal annual service and when I asked about the noise they basically lied to me and said it's normal! This was a 4 year old car with 55k on the clock! My 25 year old Toyota Surf sounds much quieter than this !
Fxxxing Mitsubishi should never have been able to get away with this!
Maybe it's just as well they're now out of business in Europe. I won't but another that's for sure.
Anyway back to the rattling, what's considered the best way to deal with this fault? Just remove the cube / coupler and put the sump back on or take the whole mess out and block the oil ways?
Do the oil way plugs screw in or are they fixed with the sealer in the kits? I'm not keen on just an interference push fit with some Loctite to hold the plugs in.
What are your thoughts?
Rob
 

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2013 Outlander 2.2 Di-D GX-5
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Anyway back to the rattling, what's considered the best way to deal with this fault? Just remove the cube / coupler and put the sump back on or take the whole mess out and block the oil ways?
Do the oil way plugs screw in or are they fixed with the sealer in the kits? I'm not keen on just an interference push fit with some Loctite to hold the plugs in.
What are your thoughts?
Rob
Hi Rob.

I refitted the balancer to occupy the volume within the sump and hence not require more oil. I then removed everything else up to the gear on the crank as it was all so broken there was no reason to refit it. In the photo below I'm pointing at the oil feed for the drive shaft, in the second photo you can see the hole caused by the cracked casing that was allowing oil to escape. With this casting removed from the engine (it bolts into the lower 'ladder brace' part of the engine case with 6 bolts) the oil feed hole is exposed. Fortunately though it is already threaded. So you can Loctite a bolt and insert it into the hole. If you refit the balancer, and block this hole you should be ok to disable the balancer. There might be a slight increase in vibration, but as I bought the car knackered it's impossible for me to know.


Crankset Bicycle chain Bicycle part Automotive tire Rim

Auto part Metal Engineering Fashion accessory Electric blue
 

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Thanks for that!
That's well smashed :oops:
I'm assuming you had to block the oil way as you removed the drive shaft and casing.
So if my gear and casing are ok is it ok to just take out the coupler?

I was going to change the oil anyway as I have an engine management light, ASC / 4x4 service required message on the dash at the moment which has caused the DPF to not regenerate hence filling the sump with diesel.
so I might as well do it all together
:cry:
Thanks.
Rob
 
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