Here is a video from very well known AMC member "Billy Mason PI" :
It details changing the rocker cover gasket/plug seals on a 6g74 engine, needed to stop oil weeping past the old gasket.
This procedure is the same on all V6 Magna/Verada/Diamante models.
I am about to do this on my own car(front bank only for now), so the guidance provided in this video will be helpful.
Another video, from "Gav's Shed" :
details how to stop the gasket from falling out by bending the metal of the cover, whereas Billy Mason's method is to use "Superglue".
I have no hesitation in pointing out that I had a rather severe argument on the AMC forum, in the month or so before Billy's video was posted, with another AMC member who, wrongly, thought that I was proposing to use Superglue as the primary sealing method - which I did not.
I was only proposing using a few drops of Superglue as a method of stopping the new gasket falling out when the rocker cover was orientated the correct way prior to installation.
Billy's video shows what I would consider to be a correct interpretation of what I claim to be my own original thought on this matter.
I note that neither video mentions ensuring that the breather gallery passage linked to the hose at the gearbox end is clean.
From comments seen elsewhere, neglecting this might cause a buildup of vapours that can lead to continued oil weeping.
A good clean out with thinners/degreaser/carb cleaner should deal with this.
Last week the "normal" Australian forum aussiemagna.com has seemingly closed down.
I don't know if this is a temporary situation or not, but I wanted to put it out there to other Australian members that we might need to start another forum if the original one does not restart soon.
This forum seemed to be the logical place to keep in contact with others like myself who are potentially at a loss as to know how to maintain the knowledge base built up over the years.
My 2004 TL Magna(Diamante equivalent - except for the All Wheel Drive option that my car has) does everything that I want, and I was intending to keep it going for a lot longer yet, at least until it was 20 years old.
It has had a 6g75 transplant, and significant replacement of suspension and steering components, so it drives very well.
However some links appear broken.
Thanks?And thanks for all the people who thanked me (0)
Im done here
Hi leadfoot,Are there any comments about the following short video?
He removes the positive/+ve battery terminal when the engine is running.
I remember that it was OK to do this on older cars, but AFAIK it was not to be done on modern cars as it might cause BIG problems with the ECU.
Comments welcome, particularly dealing with 2004 Magna.
There are comments either way in the comments attached to the video.
This is very confusing.
Hi fiveseven,Hi leadfoot,
Like you i'd be pretty wary of unhooking the battery while running, but im far for an A/E expert.
In the past i've diagnosed a faulty alternator by idling the engine and sticking the multimeter (in voltage mode) on the battery terminals while it's hooked up normally, eg in parallel with the normal cables. I'm unsure to what extent a bad battery could affect this reading but if the alt is okay it should read ~13.8~14.4V (I can't remember the exact spec). I believe it can read a bit lower if the battery is full, and of course this doesn't tell you there isnt an intermittent issue. When my magna's alt's regulator was on the way out it was jumping between ~12.5V and ~13.3V which was the result of the brushes wearing out.
IIRC depending on the type of failure it may charge okay but allow a parasitic drain.
I've bought a bad new battery in the past, so always that possibility. Could take the battery back to get load-tested and see what CCA it puts out.
Lastly, if the alternator is fairly high km's (>200k) the brushes may just be worn, and even if it's okay it may not have much life left anyway, so IMO the "throw parts at it" route isn't as silly in this case. I replaced a regulator pack on an old high kms alternator and it worked out, but i think going the properly reconditioned route is worth the extra cost to ensure both the surface the brushes rest on and the shaft lubrication are refreshed.
Good luck with it, electrical issues can be headache.
You've really been in the wars lately.But it is now starting normally again with me doing nothing more than add boiling water.
Strange.....but I am expecting troubles to happen again
@RedVRX,Wow it's good to know some veterans from Aussiemagna have assembled here. I was surprised and sad to learn that the Aussiegmagna forum had shut down some months ago. So much awesome information gathered over the years were lost... so I thought. Anyway great to see some old faces, such as Leadfoot. If you recall I was sending you PMs several months back asking about Rear trailing arm part numbers. Good to be able to reconnect. There are quite a few Magna Facebook groups out there but nothing beats a true car forum where you can read in depth about people's experiences, part numbers, DIYs, members' rides etc.
I'll try to contribute as much as I can to this community
Yes, a parts list would be most welcome.Thanks for the catalogue. Many of the genuine Mitsubishi parts are no longer produced and only be sourced through places like eBay(Oz, US, UK etc) , Amayama, RockAuto who might still stock them. There was previously a long thread on Aussiemagna where people shared part numbers of almost every part.
As for these trailing arms, I ended up going for Superpro Polyurethane bushes. I'm aware Mitfix still have the genuine Mitsubishi Trailing Arm bushes in their ebay shop but I decided to use Superpro. In fact my Front lower control arm bush is Superpro as well, as it's very difficult to find any Genuine Mitsubishi ones.
Yes I'd be glad to contribute, in fact I'm compiled an aftermarket parts list for 3rd Gen. Magnas/Verada/Diamante.
Let me know if I can be of any help in that regard.
Yea surprised to see those hinges giving way. Good thing you got them welded.Yes, a parts list would be most welcome.
Upthread, I mentioned that my bonnet hinges were broken.
My research found that they are still available brand new.
I will look them up and post information about them.
The panel beater actually got a nearby wrecker to supply two second hand.Yea surprised to see those hinges giving way. Good thing you got them welded.
Wow for $82.50 you couldn't get a smash repairer in Melbourne to even step out of his air conditioned office for a chat!The panel beater actually got a nearby wrecker to supply two second hand.
They were the wrong colour.
They were also held up due to the wrecking yard being cut off by floodwaters during the recent rain event.
Only one hinge was actually broken.
Even though I did not ask for them to be painted, or to replace both, Gerringong Smash Repairs painted both and fitted them in about 30 minutes drive in/drive out for $82.50 - including the purchase price of the hinges from the wreckers.
Their service and total price was excellent.
GSR said that in their opinion the reason for the rust was not enough paint applied at time of manufacture of the hinges.
These replacements should see me out until I retire my Magna.
I think I have just made some more progress with this material from 'fiveseven".Hi leadfoot & other AMC refugees.
I've uploaded the partial backup I mentioned making above, which is a scraping of the technical section of the forum, plus a small subset of the images, circa 2016:
If i need to search it, given that it's just a static dump, I usually do so by opening a cmd/powershell window at the folder and searching via findstr utility, eg:
If anybody gets a copy of the proper forum backup from Mal (either just the DB backup or the full site) i'd be interesting in grabbing a copy of it, and could possibly provide some technical assistance if someone were to host it or otherwise make it usable locally.Code:
PS C:\...blah...\AMC_Technical_Forums_20160506\www.aussiemagna.com\forums> findstr /snipc:"coolant drain" *.html archive\index.php\f-10-p-23.html:161: <li> <a href="t-24940.html">6g72 - Engine block coolant drain plug location</a></li> archive\index.php\f-10-p-72.html:241: <li> <a href="t-81462.html">Stuck rear engine coolant drain plug (TJ 3.5)</a></li> archive\index.php\f-11-p-13.html:188: <li> <a href="t-64550.html">Where's the coolant drain plug</a></li> archive\index.php\f-11-p-16.html:89: <li> <a href="t-81662.html">Coolant drain plugs.</a></li> archive\index.php\f-39-p-7.html:272: <li> <a href="t-99750.html">380 Coolant drain plugs</a></li> archive\index.php\t-10325.html:32:(I don't know where abouts on a V6 but on the 2.6L 4 cyl there is a coolant drain bung in the block on the exhaust side behind a cover near the oil light switch)</div></div><hr /> archive\index.php\t-14397.html:135:<div class="post"><div class="posttop"><div class="username">_x_FiReStOrM_x_</div><div class="date">06-02-2005, 02:18 PM</div></div><div class="posttext">Definately do the coolant drain, and carry at least a 5l bottle with you.<br /> archive\index.php\t-15827.html:64:<div class="post"><div class="posttop"><div class="username">Astr÷n Boy</div><div class="date">11-03-2005, 10:14 AM</div></div><div class="posttext">all the gauges cept fuel are fine. unless someone really screwed the car prior, ive had 6 gauges, long story, and they all read the same temp. when my heat gauge goes to just over the half way mark, so I.....I..o..I then the car spues its guts, and all the lovely puke brown water comes from the resevoir tank.... yes i know its not good, its only done it 2ice since ive owned it and i fixed that quick smart. but the temp is ideal, it seriously is. if the arm never left the left side of the gauge, and it is 100% functional. then id say to you, u have issues, the only way to get that kind of result. is a complete coolant drain, and only have coolant thru the system, no water mix, and the thermo removed.<br /> ...
It is no longer intermittent.You've really been in the wars lately.
I hope the problem corrected itself for you. Intermittent electrical problems can drive you crazy.
You have a new battery and relatively new alternator so it points to a parasitic drain somewhere.
It happened after changing your battery, so worth double checking for any small breaks in the
battery wiring insulation.
Your panelbeater seems like a rare breed charging $100 for that job. I would be sticking with him.
It appears your car may have lived on the coast a good part of it's life which can promote rust on unpainted parts.
It's worth grabbing a spraycan of lithium grease and apply sparingly to bonnet, door & boot hinges, locks, door checks etc.
each time you detail the car.
I hope things start turning around for you.