Mitsubishi Forums banner
61 - 80 of 128 Posts

· Super Moderator
2004 TL Magna(aka Diamante) AWD, 6g75 engine, F5A51 automatic trans.
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Here is a video from very well known AMC member "Billy Mason PI" :


It details changing the rocker cover gasket/plug seals on a 6g74 engine, needed to stop oil weeping past the old gasket.

This procedure is the same on all V6 Magna/Verada/Diamante models.

I am about to do this on my own car(front bank only for now), so the guidance provided in this video will be helpful.

Another video, from "Gav's Shed" :


details how to stop the gasket from falling out by bending the metal of the cover, whereas Billy Mason's method is to use "Superglue".

I have no hesitation in pointing out that I had a rather severe argument on the AMC forum, in the month or so before Billy's video was posted, with another AMC member who, wrongly, thought that I was proposing to use Superglue as the primary sealing method - which I did not.

I was only proposing using a few drops of Superglue as a method of stopping the new gasket falling out when the rocker cover was orientated the correct way prior to installation.

Billy's video shows what I would consider to be a correct interpretation of what I claim to be my own original thought on this matter.

I note that neither video mentions ensuring that the breather gallery passage linked to the hose at the gearbox end is clean.

From comments seen elsewhere, neglecting this might cause a buildup of vapours that can lead to continued oil weeping.

A good clean out with thinners/degreaser/carb cleaner should deal with this.
Last week the "normal" Australian forum aussiemagna.com has seemingly closed down.

I don't know if this is a temporary situation or not, but I wanted to put it out there to other Australian members that we might need to start another forum if the original one does not restart soon.

This forum seemed to be the logical place to keep in contact with others like myself who are potentially at a loss as to know how to maintain the knowledge base built up over the years.

My 2004 TL Magna(Diamante equivalent - except for the All Wheel Drive option that my car has) does everything that I want, and I was intending to keep it going for a lot longer yet, at least until it was 20 years old.

It has had a 6g75 transplant, and significant replacement of suspension and steering components, so it drives very well.
Thanks.

However some links appear broken.
And thanks for all the people who thanked me (0)

Im done here
Thanks?

See my post #'s 49 and 56 where I thanked you.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Are there any comments about the following short video?


He removes the positive/+ve battery terminal when the engine is running.

I remember that it was OK to do this on older cars, but AFAIK it was not to be done on modern cars as it might cause BIG problems with the ECU.

Comments welcome, particularly dealing with 2004 Magna.

There are comments either way in the comments attached to the video.

This is very confusing.
Hi leadfoot,

Like you i'd be pretty wary of unhooking the battery while running, but im far for an A/E expert.

In the past i've diagnosed a faulty alternator by idling the engine and sticking the multimeter (in voltage mode) on the battery terminals while it's hooked up normally, eg in parallel with the normal cables. I'm unsure to what extent a bad battery could affect this reading but if the alt is okay it should read ~13.8~14.4V (I can't remember the exact spec). I believe it can read a bit lower if the battery is full, and of course this doesn't tell you there isnt an intermittent issue. When my magna's alt's regulator was on the way out it was jumping between ~12.5V and ~13.3V which was the result of the brushes wearing out.

IIRC depending on the type of failure it may charge okay but allow a parasitic drain.

I've bought a bad new battery in the past, so always that possibility. Could take the battery back to get load-tested and see what CCA it puts out.

Lastly, if the alternator is fairly high km's (>200k) the brushes may just be worn, and even if it's okay it may not have much life left anyway, so IMO the "throw parts at it" route isn't as silly in this case. I replaced a regulator pack on an old high kms alternator and it worked out, but i think going the properly reconditioned route is worth the extra cost to ensure both the surface the brushes rest on and the shaft lubrication are refreshed.

Good luck with it, electrical issues can be headache.
 

· Super Moderator
2004 TL Magna(aka Diamante) AWD, 6g75 engine, F5A51 automatic trans.
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
Hi leadfoot,

Like you i'd be pretty wary of unhooking the battery while running, but im far for an A/E expert.

In the past i've diagnosed a faulty alternator by idling the engine and sticking the multimeter (in voltage mode) on the battery terminals while it's hooked up normally, eg in parallel with the normal cables. I'm unsure to what extent a bad battery could affect this reading but if the alt is okay it should read ~13.8~14.4V (I can't remember the exact spec). I believe it can read a bit lower if the battery is full, and of course this doesn't tell you there isnt an intermittent issue. When my magna's alt's regulator was on the way out it was jumping between ~12.5V and ~13.3V which was the result of the brushes wearing out.

IIRC depending on the type of failure it may charge okay but allow a parasitic drain.

I've bought a bad new battery in the past, so always that possibility. Could take the battery back to get load-tested and see what CCA it puts out.

Lastly, if the alternator is fairly high km's (>200k) the brushes may just be worn, and even if it's okay it may not have much life left anyway, so IMO the "throw parts at it" route isn't as silly in this case. I replaced a regulator pack on an old high kms alternator and it worked out, but i think going the properly reconditioned route is worth the extra cost to ensure both the surface the brushes rest on and the shaft lubrication are refreshed.

Good luck with it, electrical issues can be headache.
Hi fiveseven,

An auto electrical forum was also sceptical about the video, so I have dropped it.

Earlier I mentioned that I had battery troubles and also said that I had suffered a snapped bonnet hinge.

I am thinking it should not be the alternator as it and v/reg & accessory drive belts were genuine brand new 3.5 years ago from MitsFix fitted when the 380 conversion was done.

It was difficult to do any electrical troubleshooting whilst I had to hold the bonnet open with a broom handle.

It slipped once and the bonnet hit me on the head.

To add to that, it was raining strongly where I lived with rain coming into the carport.

My multimeter got soaked with rain when I put it down where the rain got to it and it was misreading.

AAAARGGGGHHHHHH.

I fixed that by putting the multimeter in the refrigerator overnight which dried out the insides, so it works again.

After the car being undriveable for 8 days due to the bonnet hinge problem, I have now had that fixed.

I urge all Magna/Verada/Diamante owners to check the condition of their bonnet hinges.

Mine was rusted badly enough that the hinge pin on the passenger side snapped.

The drivers side hinge was also showing significant rust.

(see images below)

I had to put a number of cable ties at the front of the bonnet to secure it enough so I could drive SLOWLY to the panel beaters.

My local panel beater was able to find 2 from the wreckers and resprayed them to match.

They charged me less than $100 to buy, paint and fit 2 hinges.

Gerringong Smash Repairs FTW.

New genuine hinges are available @ $125 each, but the Mits. dealer told me 3 months wait.

Oddly enough, my car has been starting without any problem today and yesterday.

The only electrical work I did was pour boiling water on the battery terminals.

Strangely, the two week old battery had developed corrosion on the -ve terminal for some reason.

But it is now starting normally again with me doing nothing more than add boiling water.

Strange.....but I am expecting troubles to happen again
 

· Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
But it is now starting normally again with me doing nothing more than add boiling water.

Strange.....but I am expecting troubles to happen again
You've really been in the wars lately.

I hope the problem corrected itself for you. Intermittent electrical problems can drive you crazy.
You have a new battery and relatively new alternator so it points to a parasitic drain somewhere.
It happened after changing your battery, so worth double checking for any small breaks in the
battery wiring insulation.

Your panelbeater seems like a rare breed charging $100 for that job. I would be sticking with him.

It appears your car may have lived on the coast a good part of it's life which can promote rust on unpainted parts.
It's worth grabbing a spraycan of lithium grease and apply sparingly to bonnet, door & boot hinges, locks, door checks etc.
each time you detail the car.

I hope things start turning around for you.
 

· Registered
2005 Mitsubishi Magna VR-X
Joined
·
11 Posts
Wow it's good to know some veterans from Aussiemagna have assembled here. I was surprised and sad to learn that the Aussiegmagna forum had shut down some months ago. So much awesome information gathered over the years were lost... so I thought. Anyway great to see some old faces, such as Leadfoot. If you recall I was sending you PMs several months back asking about Rear trailing arm part numbers. Good to be able to reconnect. There are quite a few Magna Facebook groups out there but nothing beats a true car forum where you can read in depth about people's experiences, part numbers, DIYs, members' rides etc.

I'll try to contribute as much as I can to this community :)
 

· Super Moderator
2004 TL Magna(aka Diamante) AWD, 6g75 engine, F5A51 automatic trans.
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
Wow it's good to know some veterans from Aussiemagna have assembled here. I was surprised and sad to learn that the Aussiegmagna forum had shut down some months ago. So much awesome information gathered over the years were lost... so I thought. Anyway great to see some old faces, such as Leadfoot. If you recall I was sending you PMs several months back asking about Rear trailing arm part numbers. Good to be able to reconnect. There are quite a few Magna Facebook groups out there but nothing beats a true car forum where you can read in depth about people's experiences, part numbers, DIYs, members' rides etc.

I'll try to contribute as much as I can to this community :)
@RedVRX,

Welcome.

Thanks for the kind words.

It is good to see that word is spreading that there is still a forum available for those of us that are determined to keep our beloved Australian made Magnas on the road.

I hope you can continue to contribute to the forum.

P.S. For those on any relevant Facebook pages(I am not on those or any Facebook media), it would be good if they could alert others of this forum.

Thanks.

P.P.S. I have some recollection of rear trailing arm discussion.

I have recently found some factory parts lists/schematics for Magnas.

Others may have already found them, but they are new to me.

For example:


If you are still looking, let me know and I will try to help if I can.
 

· Registered
2005 Mitsubishi Magna VR-X
Joined
·
11 Posts
Thanks for the catalogue. Many of the genuine Mitsubishi parts are no longer produced and only be sourced through places like eBay(Oz, US, UK etc) , Amayama, RockAuto who might still stock them. There was previously a long thread on Aussiemagna where people shared part numbers of almost every part.

As for these trailing arms, I ended up going for Superpro Polyurethane bushes. I'm aware Mitfix still have the genuine Mitsubishi Trailing Arm bushes in their ebay shop but I decided to use Superpro. In fact my Front lower control arm bush is Superpro as well, as it's very difficult to find any Genuine Mitsubishi ones.

Yes I'd be glad to contribute, in fact I'm compiled an aftermarket parts list for 3rd Gen. Magnas/Verada/Diamante.

Let me know if I can be of any help in that regard.
 

· Super Moderator
2004 TL Magna(aka Diamante) AWD, 6g75 engine, F5A51 automatic trans.
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Thanks for the catalogue. Many of the genuine Mitsubishi parts are no longer produced and only be sourced through places like eBay(Oz, US, UK etc) , Amayama, RockAuto who might still stock them. There was previously a long thread on Aussiemagna where people shared part numbers of almost every part.

As for these trailing arms, I ended up going for Superpro Polyurethane bushes. I'm aware Mitfix still have the genuine Mitsubishi Trailing Arm bushes in their ebay shop but I decided to use Superpro. In fact my Front lower control arm bush is Superpro as well, as it's very difficult to find any Genuine Mitsubishi ones.

Yes I'd be glad to contribute, in fact I'm compiled an aftermarket parts list for 3rd Gen. Magnas/Verada/Diamante.

Let me know if I can be of any help in that regard.
Yes, a parts list would be most welcome.

Upthread, I mentioned that my bonnet hinges were broken.

My research found that they are still available brand new.

I will look them up and post information about them.
 

· Super Moderator
2004 TL Magna(aka Diamante) AWD, 6g75 engine, F5A51 automatic trans.
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #75 · (Edited)
Yea surprised to see those hinges giving way. Good thing you got them welded.
The panel beater actually got a nearby wrecker to supply two second hand.

They were the wrong colour - red.

They were also held up due to the wrecking yard being cut off by floodwaters during the recent rain event.

Only one hinge was actually broken.

Even though I did not ask for them to be painted, or to replace both, Gerringong Smash Repairs painted both and fitted them in about 30 minutes drive in/drive out for $82.50 - including the purchase price of the hinges from the wreckers.

Their service and total price was excellent.

GSR said that in their opinion the reason for the rust was not enough paint applied at time of manufacture of the hinges.

These replacements should see me out until I retire my Magna.
 

· Registered
2005 Mitsubishi Magna VR-X
Joined
·
11 Posts
The panel beater actually got a nearby wrecker to supply two second hand.

They were the wrong colour.

They were also held up due to the wrecking yard being cut off by floodwaters during the recent rain event.

Only one hinge was actually broken.

Even though I did not ask for them to be painted, or to replace both, Gerringong Smash Repairs painted both and fitted them in about 30 minutes drive in/drive out for $82.50 - including the purchase price of the hinges from the wreckers.

Their service and total price was excellent.

GSR said that in their opinion the reason for the rust was not enough paint applied at time of manufacture of the hinges.

These replacements should see me out until I retire my Magna.
Wow for $82.50 you couldn't get a smash repairer in Melbourne to even step out of his air conditioned office for a chat!
 

· Super Moderator
2004 TL Magna(aka Diamante) AWD, 6g75 engine, F5A51 automatic trans.
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #77 · (Edited)
Hi leadfoot & other AMC refugees.

I've uploaded the partial backup I mentioned making above, which is a scraping of the technical section of the forum, plus a small subset of the images, circa 2016:

AMC_Technical_Forums_Archive_20160506_shared.zip ~200MB

If i need to search it, given that it's just a static dump, I usually do so by opening a cmd/powershell window at the folder and searching via findstr utility, eg:
Code:
PS C:\...blah...\AMC_Technical_Forums_20160506\www.aussiemagna.com\forums> findstr /snipc:"coolant drain" *.html
archive\index.php\f-10-p-23.html:161: <li> <a href="t-24940.html">6g72 - Engine block coolant drain plug location</a></li>
archive\index.php\f-10-p-72.html:241: <li> <a href="t-81462.html">Stuck rear engine coolant drain plug (TJ 3.5)</a></li>
archive\index.php\f-11-p-13.html:188: <li> <a href="t-64550.html">Where's the coolant drain plug</a></li>
archive\index.php\f-11-p-16.html:89: <li> <a href="t-81662.html">Coolant drain plugs.</a></li>
archive\index.php\f-39-p-7.html:272: <li> <a href="t-99750.html">380 Coolant drain plugs</a></li>
archive\index.php\t-10325.html:32:(I don't know where abouts on a V6 but on the 2.6L 4 cyl there is a coolant drain bung in the block on the exhaust side behind a cover near the oil light switch)</div></div><hr />
archive\index.php\t-14397.html:135:<div class="post"><div class="posttop"><div class="username">_x_FiReStOrM_x_</div><div class="date">06-02-2005, 02:18 PM</div></div><div class="posttext">Definately do the coolant drain, and carry at least a 5l bottle with you.<br />
archive\index.php\t-15827.html:64:<div class="post"><div class="posttop"><div class="username">Astr÷n Boy</div><div class="date">11-03-2005, 10:14 AM</div></div><div class="posttext">all the gauges cept fuel are fine. unless someone really screwed the car prior, ive had 6 gauges, long story, and they all read the same temp. when my heat gauge goes to just over the half way mark, so I.....I..o..I then the car spues its guts, and all the lovely puke brown water comes from the resevoir tank.... yes i know its not good, its only done it 2ice since ive owned it and i fixed that quick smart. but the temp is ideal, it seriously is. if the arm never left the left side of the gauge, and it is 100% functional. then id say to you, u have issues, the only way to get that kind of result. is a complete coolant drain, and only have coolant thru the system, no water mix, and the thermo removed.<br />
...
If anybody gets a copy of the proper forum backup from Mal (either just the DB backup or the full site) i'd be interesting in grabbing a copy of it, and could possibly provide some technical assistance if someone were to host it or otherwise make it usable locally.
I think I have just made some more progress with this material from 'fiveseven".

file:///C:/Users/User/Downloads/uphrio/AMC_Technical_Forums_20160506/www.aussiemagna.com/forums/archive/index.php/f-4.html

By doing a "Copy & Paste" of the above index I have been able to resurrect the Technical Archive that I used to repeatedly refer to in the AMC forum.

I can now search much easier across the spectrum of cars that used to be discussed at AMC.

I have posted it to the new thread about Archives.
 

· Super Moderator
2004 TL Magna(aka Diamante) AWD, 6g75 engine, F5A51 automatic trans.
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #78 · (Edited)
Third Gen. Archive

file:///C:/Users/User/AppData/Local/Temp/Rar$EXa1948.17560/AMC_Technical_Forums_20160506/www.aussiemagna.com/forums/archive/index.php/f-10.html


Here is a link to THE VERY FIRST EVER AMC POST from 2003:

It is not very important in itself, but it seems to suggest that it is possible to search posts all the way back to the beginning and find what you might be looking for using specific search terms.

If anyone finds this a bit daunting, please ask and I will be happy to help you search.

View Full Version : Car Detailing... Opinions Please



AussieMagna
02-02-2003, 03:31 PM
This isn't really a Tech problem but i was wondering if anyone out there knows much about car detailing?

I just wanted what is the best way to really make your baby shine? Wax vs Polish? Who uses what and what do you think of it

Cheers People
Killbilly
02-02-2003, 04:19 PM
I have the best article on this. Courtesy of the Detailling section of the ASOG Message boards

Waxes:

Waxes are primarily to seal and protect the paint. They will add some shine, but not as much as a polish will.
Meguairs High Tech Yellow wax #26, Meguiars Polymer Sealant #20, 3Ms Perfect it Show Car Wax (paste only), Mother's Carnuba Wax, Wax Shop's Super Glaze (desspite the name, it is a wax). Zymol is a good wax, but it is a bitch to use and leaves blue residue in the cracks and emblems. The other waxes listed won't.

Polishes and Glazes:

Polishes and glazes are used to add oils to the paint for more shine and smooth the surface for more reflection.
Meguairs Hand Polish (Pro Body Shop) and Meguairs Show Car Glaze or Machine Glaze (Mirror Glaze line), Wax Shops's Safe Cut and 3Ms Imperial Hand Glaze. None of these will dry white or haze the rubber or plastic. All will add shine and clarity to the paint surface, but will not remove serious paint defects-that is not their purpose.


Cleaners/Compounds and Swirl Removers

Cleaners and compounds are made to remove serious paint defects, like oxidation, scratches, etc, and swirl removers are used to smooth the surface after using a cleaner/compound and to remove any swirl or scratch marks made by the cleaner/compounds. Always start with the lightest cleaner or compound, and use a stronger one only when necessary. Try any of the following:
Meguairs Dual Action cleaner/polish and Diamond Cut cleaner (Pro Body Shop), Meguiars Fine, Medium or Heavy Cut cleaners (Mirror Glaze line), or any of 3Ms or Wax Shops cleaners and compounds.

For swirl removers, there is Meguairs Swirl Removal Polish and Swirl Remover or 3Ms swirl remover.

Spray Detailers

These are used to clean your car when it is only dusty (after dusting with you car duster), or after washing or waxing to make sure no residue is left on the paint. Meguiars Final Inspection, Quick Detailer, or Wax Shops Slick Stuff all work very well. Generally I use Final Inspection as show preperation and keep Quick Detailer in my trunk for everyday use & touch-up's.


Glass Cleaners

Eagle's 20/20 Glass cleaner. Works great, is cheap, and repels water almost as well as Rain X. It does seem to be rather hard to find though, as a substitute I use and reccomend 'Invisible Glass'. Most Pep Boys carry it.

Interior Cleaners

Woolite, the same Woolite used to gently wash sweaters and stuff like that. Mix it in a spray bottle at 6 parts water and 1 part Woolite. Spray liberally on the surface, use a small plastic brush, scrub the surface and dry with a cloth towel. It works great on all fabrics, carpets, vinyl and yes, leather-in fact, it will leave the leather very soft after using.

Vinyl, Rubber and Leather dressings

Vinyl and Rubber can use the same products; Meguairs Rubber and Vinyl cleaner and conditioner, Meguairs W-Dressing (PBS), STP's Son of a Gun, Armor All-I would discourage using the real shiny and greasy stuff on the interior-it attracts dust and makes the sun reflect the dash into the windshield while driving towards the sun.

For leather, use a dedicated leather conditioner, like Meguairs Gold Class for Leather, Tanners Preserves, Lexol or Eagles leather conditioner.

Clay Bars

Detailing clay is used to remove imbedded dirt, grime, overspray, etc from the paint without the use of abrasives. If after washing and waxing, you run your hand over the paint and it has a gritty feel, you need to use a clay bar. Meguiars, Mothers and Clay Magic all make good systems, and they come with everything you need except a towel to dry the paint after claying. Just follow the package directions and wax after finishing. Your paint will be super slick and smooth like glass.

Tires

I always prefered tire gel's to sprays and foam's. Sprays go on uneven, & foams often have a nasty overspray. Meguiars high endurance is the only thing i'd reccomend. There is the Natural Shine version, and the High Gloss version, depending on your taste's. But both are VERY long lasting, and its quite easy to spin your tires with some of it on the tread

Wheel's

I've tried many different products...never really found much difference between the meguiars and motheres. Just use whats appropriate for you...depending if you have chrome, or alloy, or steel, or whatever. I also reccomend taking your wheels off the car atleast once's a month to give a good and thorough clean to the inside.

Miscellaneous

When using Meguiars products, only use the Mirror Glaze or Pro Body Shop lines, not the burgandy bottle stuff like the deep crystal system or Cleaner wax. They are for the casual user, not someone who wants the ultimate in shine.

You do not have to glob on a bunch of wax or polish-a blob the size of a quarter should be enough to cover your entire hood-a 16 oz bottle of wax is enough to wax your car at least 30 times-use just enough to lightly cover the surface of the paint.

When using a polish or glaze, rub into the paint until it looks almost clear, and let sit for 20-30 minutes so the oils can soak in and it is easier to remove.

You do not need a buffer, especially one with a wool pad. The swirl marks are not worth it-and you can do just as good a job by hand without risking swirl marks, burnt paint and the mess the buffers make by slinging wax all over the place.

Do not waste your money on any wax that claims to have Teflon® in it. Unless you are able to apply the wax at 600+ degrees, the telfon is not a viable ingredient-and this is straight from Dupont.

_
-Distance
ASOG BoOsT jUnKiE crew

Abd this extra bit from another post in that thread:

Quote:

On 2001-10-17 15:40, 96SebringLXi wrote:
Hey can you add to that what order to do everything?



sure. although usually it has that info on the back of the bottles, i think.
washing is obviously the first step. & waxing is usually the last, wax being the selant.

wash
compound or scratch remover (if necessary)
glaze
swirl remover (if you compound)OR swirl free polish.
or regular polish if you don't compound or swirl remove
wax
then detail if you'd like with quick detailer, mothers showtime , or megiars final inspection.

i give my car a full cleaning weekly...
wash, glaze, wax, detail, wheels, interior.
once a month i polish & take the wheels off the car to clean the inside's.
every morning i use the california car duster to clean off the car & then use quick detailer to touch it up.

for drying the car i use the california wiper blade, then the absorber to get the excess off. don't use it like a towel. just lay it flat on the car, pull the end, & slide it.

for applying wax/glaze/polish i use wax aplicators. for removal use 100% cotton terry cloths. i don't reccomen the cheese cloths because they tend to flake yellow crap.

MAKE SURE YOUR CAR IS TOTALLY DRY AFTER WASHING!
cause when you do other stuff if theres any water at all its going to leave nasty streaks. i have that problem bad because of watter comming out of my hood scoop..

i can't think of anything else extremly important at this time, but i'll add if i do

these are just what i found work best. opinions vary of course. but i'm pretty proud of my paint. i wish i had some of the professional pictures from carlisle that are hanging in my room scanned but i don't. just as an example of the reflectivity...
AussieMagna
02-02-2003, 04:31 PM
Blardy hell... Will give it a shot!
Gone...
03-02-2003, 05:18 PM
heheh while my answer is nothing like killbillys i have a simple step by step and my car always looks like new , here's the things you need

1 a couple of chamos ( for different purposes)
2 a good car wash i use meguaires
3 a good intererior polish i use meguires vinal polish
4 a good wheel and exterior vinal polish i use Eagle one wheel polish or somthing

just wash your car as per normal Ie , from the roof and work your way down, then chamis the car down then you can start on the inside plish the dash and down desides the seats n that vacuum the carpet polish all the doors and plastic bits, then use Qtips to clean the vents and hard to get at places, then use another chamos to clean all the doors and door sills of dust dirt and grease , then move on and polish the door sills. then polish the wheels , mudflaps and all trimmings with the eagle one polish , then with kitten window wash i wash all the outside windows ( you dont use a cleaning agent inside since you will harm your nice tinting ) then since i really like a nice clean car and i like spending time with my car i take another chamis and with a small bucket of water i polish the engine bay so it looks like new , you dont really need degreaser. and that's all i do takes less then a few hours and you get a nice looking car. I dont really like using Wax or any of that crap one because i dont need to and ive heard bad things about waxing if you dont do it exactly right n that.
AussieMagna
03-02-2003, 05:23 PM
I lurve waxing my car, nothing more satisfying that standing back in the late arvo admiring how shinny your sexy ride is. Bloody hell yes!

Widow im gonna try that eagle one tyre gel stuff.
WhiteVRX
03-02-2003, 09:18 PM
i use the turtle wax stuff, the coloured ones!! its good
but im gonna try something for the scratches n swirl marks.

i had some blue stuff from my old car, and dad put it on his white car..
it stains!

had to re pollish it twice to get it off!
Powered by vBulletin™ Version 4.0.3 Copyright © 2016 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.
 

· Super Moderator
2004 TL Magna(aka Diamante) AWD, 6g75 engine, F5A51 automatic trans.
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Here is the VERY LAST AMC POST held by the archive in 2016:

file:///C:/Users/User/AppData/Local/Temp/Rar$EXa1948.17560/AMC_Technical_Forums_20160506/www.aussiemagna.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-106691.html

Of course, the above information is not as flexible as was the old AMC forum, but I am a bit happier that at least I can now search everything between 2003 and May 2016, instead of thinking that the task was just too hard.
 

· Super Moderator
2004 TL Magna(aka Diamante) AWD, 6g75 engine, F5A51 automatic trans.
Joined
·
350 Posts
Discussion Starter · #80 · (Edited)
You've really been in the wars lately.

I hope the problem corrected itself for you. Intermittent electrical problems can drive you crazy.
You have a new battery and relatively new alternator so it points to a parasitic drain somewhere.
It happened after changing your battery, so worth double checking for any small breaks in the
battery wiring insulation.

Your panelbeater seems like a rare breed charging $100 for that job. I would be sticking with him.

It appears your car may have lived on the coast a good part of it's life which can promote rust on unpainted parts.
It's worth grabbing a spraycan of lithium grease and apply sparingly to bonnet, door & boot hinges, locks, door checks etc.
each time you detail the car.

I hope things start turning around for you.
It is no longer intermittent.

After having the bonnet hinges fixed, I had almost 2 weeks of starting unaided not needing to recharge or jump it.

Well, today that ended with the alternator light glowing continuously.

At least I got home OK.

So, I will now source a new alternator......well, I would if Mitsfix was not away again until 31 March.

AAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHHH.

Even though I sourced the last one from him 3.5 years ago fitted when the 380 engine was installed, I am seeing a lot of potential "pirates" out in the market place.

Many, claiming that their products are "genuine" "Bosch", seem not to be to me.

Or their website do not work properly so I can't find out about the listed part even though it displays.

One retailer is only prepared to offer 6 months warranty on a "genuine Bosch" part.

Seriously????

I could pay $400 + from Ripco or somewhere like that, but MitsFix sells his for about $280.

I am at a loss as to know why the previously "brand new genuine" alternator that was fitted lasted only 30,000km.

AAAAARRRRRGGGGGHHHHH.

My only clue is the now small oil leak from the front rocker cover gasket, possibly contaminating the alternator or the regulator.

I took a photo of the regulator itself tonight, and it appears clean, but the alternator itself has an obvious oil deposit on it.

It was larger months ago before I tightened up the slightly loose bolts, which made the leak much less.

I have not actually heard of an alternator failing from oil contamination, but I suppose there is always the first time.

I start looking in earnest for a suitable alternator later today.

I am probably looking at being without transport for over a week.

Maybe longer, depending on postage to country areas like mine.

As Ned Kelly allegedly said just before he was hanged:

"Such is life."

I feel as positive right now as he did facing the gallows.
Gas Auto part Metal Close-up Automotive wheel system
 
61 - 80 of 128 Posts
Top