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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did the brakes on my 04 Outlander today. It was fun and easy. There is a right and a left rotor. I also added a 1" wheel spacer to widen the track. Painted caliper bracket with alumniblast and the caliper with lastblast. Rotor was already powder coated silver.
 

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I dont think we got them as option in Europe - pity as the look really cool

can you post up a few more pics of them please?
 

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Originally posted by recardo@Jun 17 2008, 09:07 AM
are those wheel arch (fender) extensions OEM?  or where did you get them from - they look quite aggressive :)
[snapback]173990[/snapback]​
They were delivered as factory equipment in european Turbo version, together with aluminium pedals and aluminium door-step ledges. So they are definitelly available in EU - may be you should ask some dealer in e.g. Netherland if in UK these are not available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This info is for do it yourselfers only.
I had an oops moment over the weekend. I took my last brake job appart to clean, service and lubricate only to find out that the caliper bolts were stretched. Replaced bolts and guide studs and this time I torqued at 17 ft/lbs. This seemed insufficient when I did the brakes the first time but it must have been right because I screwed-up the bolts by over torquing.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Outy @ Aug 23 2008, 04:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
This info is for do it yourselfers only.
I had an oops moment over the weekend. I took my last brake job appart to clean, service and lubricate only to find out that the caliper bolts were stretched. Replaced bolts and guide studs and this time I torqued at 17 ft/lbs. This seemed insufficient when I did the brakes the first time but it must have been right because I screwed-up the bolts by over torquing.[/b]

Hi Outy,
I am getting ready to change the front pads on my wife's 2004 Outy with AWD. I do my own brakes on my 94 Roadmaster wagon and was wondering if you could walk me through doing the Outy's front pad change. What tools will I need? What parts besides the pads and brake lube? (clips, etc.?)
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks
 

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Finally had a day above freezing and did the front pads on my 2003 today. Went with Oreily's Brake Best Ceramic and I really like them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You should replace the stainless slider guide clips (20$ well spent) if these are scored, scrathed or just plain to wore out. In Canada I found the best pads to be " Adaptive 1" a bit pricy (125$) but worth the extra cash. They put out very little brake dust. I have 110000Kms (68000 miles) on my last brake job as posted in this thread earlier. Original Mitsubishi brakes lasted 56000Kms. I will probably need new rotors and pads at the end of the summer before inspection date.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Last time people said I did not take enough pictures......This post dates from may 18th 2008, which is when I did my last brake job over 150,000Kms ago. Did them again today. (365,719Kms now).
Pic 1 shows wheel off.
Pic 2 I have a 1" spacer removed.
Pic 3 shows how far in pads have moved.
Pics 4&5 shows actual wear.
Pic 6 shows old pads with still a bit left before screamer hits rotor.
Pic 7 Two 14mm bolts hold caliper to caliper bracket.
Pic 8 Two 17mm bolts hold caliper bracket to hub.
Pic 9 shows old stainless steel guide clips, always replace these if possible.
Pic 10 I had installed drilled rotors back then, these are probably OK in southern US but here the salt gets in does holes and create a dimple around the hole (U can actually see the dimples in picture) causing them to become noisy when braking.
Pic 11 Good time to Tremclad the back plate.
Pic 12, I smother hub with anti-seize.
Pic 13 shows a good place to hang caliper while working and waiting for paint.
Pic 14 shows new rotor. I painted hat and fins to try and make it last longer and look better too.
Pic 15 Painted caliper with last blast cast iron colour.
Pic 16 need to clean guide pins with wire wheel and relubricate. After cleaning, pins looked good. Rubber boots come right out. They just snap over a small lip.
Pics 17 through 20 To clean holes I take steel wool and wrap it on a drill bit.
Pic 21 Caliper bracket is done.
Pic 22 I don't want to advertise for "Adaptive One" but these are the best pads I have found, available at NAPA. So I bought a second set.
Pic 23 These pads come with stainless steel guide plates also. Inside pad and outside pad are marked with blue and red dots. The outside pad minimizes brake dust.
Pic 24 Clips installed on caliperbracket.
Pic 25 shows spacer re-installed.
Pics 26 & 27 shows caliper bracket back on and torked at 70 ft/lb, guides are lubricated for pads sliders..
Pic 28 New pads are grooved differently.
Pic 29 shows inside brake pad with new screamer.
Pic 30 Pads are on caliper bracket and ready for caliper. Pads also come with poly grease to stop squeal. This grease is applied to pad backing.
Pics 31 & 32 Now you see the new distance with new pads.
Pic 33 Push piston back in cylinder with clamp or jaw pliers.
Pic 34 shows Caliper back on and torked at 275 in/lb or 17ft/lb. Took this time to paint shock housing (Tremclad rust paint).
Pic 35 Other side inside pad had wore down to screamer, you can see shinny spot on tip of screamer.
Very important to use torque ratchet to tighten wheel nuts evenly to avoid rotor warpage down the road......I torque at 100ft/lbs even though book says 80.
Still fun to do! Total cost 160$ 75 for pads and 85 for rotors. And a bit of paint that I already had lying around.
 

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i just did the fronts on my 07 outlander...
no rotors tho...i just turned my stock ones...they still had some left...


but i used Hawk brake pads..
unfortunately they dont make a rear pad for my car yet..so i will probably use akebono pads instead


and i use a synthetic caliper grease for the slides,pins and the pads...
 
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