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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone. I have just bought my first Mitsubishi and it hasn't been the best car I have owned. It didn't pass emissions because of 2 codes it had stored. Of course the check engine light was burned out so I had no idea when I bought it. I managed to fix both codes and just got it to pass Emissions today. The problem I am having is the alternator wasn't charging and I had no light on the dash. I removed it and had it bench tested and it failed. I purchased a new one and installed it but I still have no charge to my battery. I remove the battery cable and it continues to run even with the headlights on. My voltage at the battery and directly form the Alternator is 12.33. Every 4-5 days my battery goes dead. I charge it and it goes good for another 4-5 days. I have been going over wiring diagrams and I see a generator relay but I cannot find it to test it. Anyone seen this trouble before? It seems to me that an alternator is pretty basic. Power in\ More Power out to the battery. Some wires go to the ECU to adjust idle at start up. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Ive had 2 issues on a similar model , it was a 94 Galant VR-4 and the other was a Galant GSR , in the first case in the fuse panel under the hood , there was a maxi fuse for the alternator which was sorta broken but not totally broken, which would cause intermiten charging of the battery while its running , the other was where the the (not hot wite screws) but the wires that plug in to the back of the alternator to regulate the voltage regulator , one the main wires was broken in one area thus the alternator was onlee charging at most about 12 volts, its base output which is onlee enough to keep every electronic on the car working without much load , but wasnt putting out enough charging power to charge the battery back up. Every time yu start yur car it takes a large power draw frum the battery. In adition when a car is running under normal load it puts out 12 volts for every working thing on teh car (normal daytime) and an aditional 1.5 volts which is 13.5 , that additional extra volt is supplied back to teh battery to keep its max charge. Check the alternator plug in and wiring and maxi fuse in the underhood fuse panel. I hope it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just thought I should update this. Last week I finally had it and pulled out my new alternator and took it down to auto zone where I bought it to have it checked out. It passed their test. I went home and checked all the wiring throughout my car that had anything to do with the alternateor and charging system. I cleaned all my earth grounds replaced my cables and still I only had an alternator output of 12.33 volts. I took the alternator back out of the car and went to auto zone. I told them it was bad and I needed a new one. They wanted to check it and I said dont bother I just need a new one. I went home and installed it and presto, I am now getting 13.50 volts and it has now been over a week and my car runs great. It really bugs me that it passed their test but would not charge the battery. Anyways thats the story, so when troubleshooting dont always assume the parts you install are good ones. :grin:
 
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