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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So had my convertible colt since Oct 2019 and not had any issues until today when I put my roof down, the rear windows would not close so it means I can’t get my roof back up. It clicks and I can hear a whirring when pressing either the window open switch and the roof up switch. I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how much a mechanic charged them to sort it out? This is my first car and I am in love with her so any help at all would be appreciated, thanks!
 

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So had my convertible colt since Oct 2019 and not had any issues until today when I put my roof down, the rear windows would not close so it means I can’t get my roof back up. It clicks and I can hear a whirring when pressing either the window open switch and the roof up switch. I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how much a mechanic charged them to sort it out? This is my first car and I am in love with her so any help at all would be appreciated, thanks!
Hi sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I would say that it is probably a very major problem - common to many Colt CZCs including my daughter's!

The most obvious problem is likely to be that the wire rope is mangled inside the motor, probably caused by the plastic housing that retains the rope nipple on the glass carrier has broken. I can tell you exactly how to get the window regulator out and then you can try to repair the cables - can be bought online if so badly mangled.

However there is also the possibility that there is a logic (CANBUS) problem - the motor did not recognise the end stop and carried on winding the motor which is why the housing broke. This happened to me first on my daughter's car last year - I have had all 4 regulators out and repaired them all but still not managed to fix the problem permanently. In fact I just wedged up the rear right window yesterday after the above problem!!

You cant just put the rear window back in the closed position and disconnect the rear motor - if you do the front one wont operate properly.

I have spent the last year trying to find a CZC2 wiring diagram for the windows and roof - no idea why the front motor needs about 6 wire connections. Trying to see if I can remove all the logic and replace everything with manual switches. Might even get the roof down (and back up) again for the first time in a year or so!

Happy to advise more if you need it - even via phone or email if it would help.

Good luck

PS I wrote a full description of doing this on another Colt Forum (possibly coltuk.org) but it seems to have disappeared anyone know if it has moved or closed down. Sadly I didnt keep the text and the pictures
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks so much for the advice. I suspected this might be a common problem even if the the Mitsubishi service support line said they had not heard about it before.

I’d love to give fixing this a go myself but I’ve not got any tools or know anything about electrical wiring so am going to try and get it booked it in at an auto spark tomorrow. I have it covered at the min hoping it does not rain too badly overnight!

I’ll give an update soon and pray that my little colty hopefully can get fixed!
 

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If your mechanic has access to a wiring diagram for the windows and roof for the CZC i'd love to see those pages. However in the first instance its a mechanical problem with the regulator not an electrical fault.

If the problem is the same as mine the small rear window wont go up as the plastic housing retainer for the wire rope nipple is broken. I moved the window carrier so that I could retain the nipple on the retainer used by the "down" wire rope. This means the down wire rope is not connected. This doesnt matter as you only want the window to go up until it stops then the front window will go up. You just need to make sure the door window doesnt go down all the way in case it tries to lower the rear one. My experience is that the rear motor must be connected otherwise the front window wont operate correctly. Hope that was clear - it's a bit complicated to explain succinctly!
Best of luck

PS If you get it sorted I would really like to know exactly what was done!!
 

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Thanks for explaining further, it’s very much appreciated! I’ll see what I can do on the pic front and resolution front, might be a while. I’m based in Northern Ireland, and all the places I tried Friday were saying there’re booked up for at least two weeks. Some until September!!!
 

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So had my convertible colt since Oct 2019 and not had any issues until today when I put my roof down, the rear windows would not close so it means I can’t get my roof back up. It clicks and I can hear a whirring when pressing either the window open switch and the roof up switch. I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem and how much a mechanic charged them to sort it out? This is my first car and I am in love with her so any help at all would be appreciated, thanks! your roof will lift back up manually the wire has broken i got wire kit off ebay fix it my self and i am not a mecanic
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, weirdly enough the windows went down when I tried this morning so roof is now back up but the front passenger window will only got up in increments so there is defo a short circuit somewhere. The mechanic I took it to earlier referred me to an auto spark and got booked in for tomorrow. I’d love to give a go myself but I can’t risk the roof going down and not being able to bring it up again if I can’t sort the windows as I’ve got nowhere to store it and it’s raining a lot atm where I am. Not sure about the plastic sliders sorry!
 

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Hi sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I would say that it is probably a very major problem - common to many Colt CZCs including my daughter's!

The most obvious problem is likely to be that the wire rope is mangled inside the motor, probably caused by the plastic housing that retains the rope nipple on the glass carrier has broken. I can tell you exactly how to get the window regulator out and then you can try to repair the cables - can be bought online if so badly mangled.

However there is also the possibility that there is a logic (CANBUS) problem - the motor did not recognise the end stop and carried on winding the motor which is why the housing broke. This happened to me first on my daughter's car last year - I have had all 4 regulators out and repaired them all but still not managed to fix the problem permanently. In fact I just wedged up the rear right window yesterday after the above problem!!

You cant just put the rear window back in the closed position and disconnect the rear motor - if you do the front one wont operate properly.

I have spent the last year trying to find a CZC2 wiring diagram for the windows and roof - no idea why the front motor needs about 6 wire connections. Trying to see if I can remove all the logic and replace everything with manual switches. Might even get the roof down (and back up) again for the first time in a year or so!

Happy to advise more if you need it - even via phone or email if it would help.

Good luck

PS I wrote a full description of doing this on another Colt Forum (possibly coltuk.org) but it seems to have disappeared anyone know if it has moved or closed down. Sadly I didnt keep the text and the pictures
Recently rear window (UK, Right side )cable damaged and stoped working. At one point I lowered front window and it's not coming up ,yes that's normal because of faulty rear window. So repaired the rear window ,now the rear window works fine but front window still not working , so bought a used front window regulator with motor fitted it , pressed the switch ,window gone down fully but not coming up . Now the front window is fully open, will not come up, rear window works fine ?!Where is the fault ? rear window motor(module) ?Obviosity roof is also not working ,boot can open and close , Any idea please?!
 

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Recently rear window (UK, Right side )cable damaged and stoped working. At one point I lowered front window and it's not coming up ,yes that's normal because of faulty rear window. So repaired the rear window ,now the rear window works fine but front window still not working , so bought a used front window regulator with motor fitted it , pressed the switch ,window gone down fully but not coming up . Now the front window is fully open, will not come up, rear window works fine ?!Where is the fault ? rear window motor(module) ?Obviosity roof is also not working ,boot can open and close , Any idea please?!
What did you do to repair the rear window?
Was the new regulator identical to the one you took out?
That's a weird problem and I dont expect I can help as you seem to know a lot about how it.
To me there is either a problem with the signalling wires ie the logic somewhere has not "realised" that the rear window is fully up (but has realised the front window is fully down) or possibly there is no power to the front window. I bought some connectors that tap into the wire to try and check voltages.
One thing I did do to eliminate things was swapped the regulators between the front doors to see what worked - I guess that might be worth trying? Of course you cant mount them - just hold them - so watch out for your fingers.

Good luck and keep us updated with progress.
 

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Thanks for explaining further, it’s very much appreciated! I’ll see what I can do on the pic front and resolution front, might be a while. I’m based in Northern Ireland, and all the places I tried Friday were saying there’re booked up for at least two weeks. Some until September!!!
How did you get on with the windows??
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How did you get on with the windows??
Sorry, meant to come back to this thread! Auto spark sorted it for me - he didn’t have any diagrams, said he didn’t use them! But he said it was defo the regulator and new it would be £450 but he’d sort something out on eBay for me and he did! So all in, including fitting, it was £230 which in fairness I think was very reasonable. Just hope the other side doesn’t go now
 

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What did you do to repair the rear window?
Was the new regulator identical to the one you took out?
That's a weird problem and I dont expect I can help as you seem to know a lot about how it.
To me there is either a problem with the signalling wires ie the logic somewhere has not "realised" that the rear window is fully up (but has realised the front window is fully down) or possibly there is no power to the front window. I bought some connectors that tap into the wire to try and check voltages.
One thing I did do to eliminate things was swapped the regulators between the front doors to see what worked - I guess that might be worth trying? Of course you cant mount them - just hold them - so watch out for your fingers.

Good luck and keep us updated with progress.
Just replaced the steel wire cable on rear . Rear window works fine now , but nothing on the front window,( not coming up).
 

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What did you do to repair the rear window?
Was the new regulator identical to the one you took out?
That's a weird problem and I dont expect I can help as you seem to know a lot about how it.
To me there is either a problem with the signalling wires ie the logic somewhere has not "realised" that the rear window is fully up (but has realised the front window is fully down) or possibly there is no power to the front window. I bought some connectors that tap into the wire to try and check voltages.
One thing I did do to eliminate things was swapped the regulators between the front doors to see what worked - I guess that might be worth trying? Of course you cant mount them - just hold them - so watch out for your fingers.

Good luck and keep us updated with progress.
Main power is there ,(I mean 12v on the thicker 2 wires), swaped the front window like you said , it wont work the other side . Tried the rear motors(window) swap ( remember both rear windows work fine)but both stoped work on wrong side , that means ,you cant swap the module (from the motor) left and right
 

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Sorted the front window issue . The acutual problem was with rear window even its working fine after changing the steel cables. I done a scan with Wurth obd scan tool and it showed me that there is a fault ( some thing like initiation failed ) , so bought a used rear motor fitted it , everything working fine , no fault code . But waisted money to buy a front window motor and regulator (used).
 

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Sorted the front window issue . The acutual problem was with rear window even its working fine after changing the steel cables. I done a scan with Wurth obd scan tool and it showed me that there is a fault ( some thing like initiation failed ) , so bought a used rear motor fitted it , everything working fine , no fault code . But waisted money to buy a front window motor and regulator (used).
Glad its sorted. How easy was it to find the rear motor and how much did you have to pay. When I looked before they were scarce and exhorbitant!! Which front regulator do you have left or right? MIght be interested if its the correct one at a good price!!
 

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Sorted the front window issue . The acutual problem was with rear window even its working fine after changing the steel cables. I done a scan with Wurth obd scan tool and it showed me that there is a fault ( some thing like initiation failed ) , so bought a used rear motor fitted it , everything working fine , no fault code . But waisted money to buy a front window motor and regulator (used).
Paid £100 for the motor without regulator . I’ve front right side motor and regulator for sale now , (used)£150 for both , thanks
 

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Hi sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I would say that it is probably a very major problem - common to many Colt CZCs including my daughter's!

The most obvious problem is likely to be that the wire rope is mangled inside the motor, probably caused by the plastic housing that retains the rope nipple on the glass carrier has broken. I can tell you exactly how to get the window regulator out and then you can try to repair the cables - can be bought online if so badly mangled.

However there is also the possibility that there is a logic (CANBUS) problem - the motor did not recognise the end stop and carried on winding the motor which is why the housing broke. This happened to me first on my daughter's car last year - I have had all 4 regulators out and repaired them all but still not managed to fix the problem permanently. In fact I just wedged up the rear right window yesterday after the above problem!!

You cant just put the rear window back in the closed position and disconnect the rear motor - if you do the front one wont operate properly.

I have spent the last year trying to find a CZC2 wiring diagram for the windows and roof - no idea why the front motor needs about 6 wire connections. Trying to see if I can remove all the logic and replace everything with manual switches. Might even get the roof down (and back up) again for the first time in a year or so!

Happy to advise more if you need it - even via phone or email if it would help.

Good luck

PS I wrote a full description of doing this on another Colt Forum (possibly coltuk.org) but it seems to have disappeared anyone know if it has moved or closed down. Sadly I didnt keep the text and the pictures
What did you do to repair the rear window?
Was the new regulator identical to the one you took out?
That's a weird problem and I dont expect I can help as you seem to know a lot about how it.
To me there is either a problem with the signalling wires ie the logic somewhere has not "realised" that the rear window is fully up (but has realised the front window is fully down) or possibly there is no power to the front window. I bought some connectors that tap into the wire to try and check voltages.
One thing I did do to eliminate things was swapped the regulators between the front doors to see what worked - I guess that might be worth trying? Of course you cant mount them - just hold them - so watch out for your fingers.

Good luck and keep us updated with progress.
Hello ceemjay! Did you solve this? I have the same problem now :( the plastic housing that retains the rope nipple on the glass carrier has broken - is there any way you know of to replace this broken plastic housing?
 

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Assuming I am understanding your problem correctly you might be able to use a bicycle brake adjuster like this. I used one as it allowed me to adjust the tension after replacing the cable. I think I had to slightly enlarge the hole in the metal housing. Should be easy to source from a bike shop or an old bike in the garage perhaps??

Grey Tints and shades Font Wood Electric blue
 
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