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bought a lancer oz rally (auto), just wonderin if there is any way to modify anything on it? and if so, What? I put some 18 in. icw racing wheels on, a 10 in. monitor, put an xbox 360 inside and that is all for now but just wonderin bout performancewise what i can do to it?
 
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just about anything you want to do to it. as long as your willing to spend the money on it. i'd suggest getting either a ram air or cold air intake(cold air if your going with a turbo). toss in a new cat back exhaust, also get some ceramic headers. upgrade the ignition system with racing spark plug wires. if you decide to get a turbo i suggest you upgrade your fuel system with a bigger fuel pump racing fuel rail and enlarged fuel injectors. if your planning on pushing more than 8psi out of the turbo. new upgraded ECM and ECU,

i would rebuild the motor put in racing sleeves, maybe titanium piston heads with racing piston shafts. have your head poly port polished upgrade your timing from a belt to a chain if you can. make sure to get re-enforced ultra light timing gears and pulley wheels. put in a light weight fly wheel, i'm not sure if your engine is SOHC or DOHC but i would look into getting DOHC if your engine is SOHC. i think that should be pretty much everything you can do to upgrade your mechanical Horse Power.

anything else would be lightening up your car, and adding displacement to the wheels with a racing tranny. puttting in race seats, pulling out the stock interior and putting in lightweight panels, light weight windows, pulling out your rear door innards and bolting the back doors shut, taking out your back seat ect.

i guess it all depends on which way you want to go. anyways i hope this might have helped you out a bit.
 
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Originally posted by Lewiman06@Feb 11 2008, 09:11 PM
your in the audio electronics asking about performance, try the performance section. good luck  :57:
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i don't mean to correct the moderator or anything, but we are in the performance section. i even double checked to make sure i wasn't hallucinating lol

i keep thinking i'm hallucinating and sadly i never am. especially when cops are writing me tickets. when that happens, i really wish i was hallucinating.
 

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Originally posted by bullet_bike_syke69@Feb 26 2008, 05:50 PM
i don't mean to correct the moderator or anything, but we are in the performance section. i even double checked to make sure i wasn't hallucinating lol

i keep thinking i'm hallucinating and sadly i never am. especially when cops are writing me tickets. when that happens, i really wish i was hallucinating.
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Well you are right and so is the MOD. This topic was in the audio section, and I moved it to the Performance section (after the MOD made his comment).
 

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Originally posted by bullet_bike_syke69@Feb 26 2008, 04:46 PM
just about anything you want to do to it. as long as your willing to spend the money on it.
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You started off like you knew what you were talking about

i'd suggest getting either a ram air or cold air intake(cold air if your going with a turbo).
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NO. If you go turbo your intake will be 100% different then any nonturbo intake.

toss in a new cat back exhaust, also get some ceramic headers.
Ok, and what about the pipe that goes from the headers to the cat. I am happy though that you didn't recommend the use of a test pipe to eliminate the cat.

upgrade the ignition system with racing spark plug wires.
Just go 8.5mm wires and NGK plugs.

if you decide to get a turbo i suggest you upgrade your fuel system with a bigger fuel pump racing fuel rail and enlarged fuel injectors.
correct although the terminology isn't great. I can live with it. However, if you upgrade all this with out the turbo it is a waste. Adding more fuel with out more air will slow you down.

if your planning on pushing more than 8psi out of the turbo. new upgraded ECM and ECU,
On what turbo, You can push 800 PSI out of a turbo that is super small. Think of it this way. Take a garden hose push 8 psi through it now point and spray your little ten year old sister. She gets a little mad and gets you back by running up to you and kicking you in the shins.

Now take a fire hose and push 8 psi through it and point it at her. She will get you back after she gets out of the hospital.

And the ECU, it really isn't a new one its just a secondary one piggy backed into the original if I'm thinking correctly. And you could get away with just a Fuel controller. The difference, $2000 or $200

i would rebuild the motor put in racing sleeves,** maybe titanium piston heads ** with racing piston shafts.** have your head poly port polished** upgrade your timing from a belt to a chain if you can.** make sure to get re-enforced ultra light timing gears and pulley wheels.** put in a light weight fly wheel,** i'm not sure if your engine is SOHC or DOHC but i would look into getting DOHC if your engine is SOHC. .
I stared where each statement ends
ok?
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Connecting rods
Ported and polished what is poly?
Why?
And be sure to get them tuned correctly
Nice upgrade
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anything else would be lightening up your car, and adding displacement to the wheels with a racing tranny.
What!?!?!?!!?

puttting in race seats, pulling out the stock interior and putting in lightweight panels, light weight windows, pulling out your rear door innards and bolting the back doors shut, taking out your back seat ect.

i guess it all depends on which way you want to go. anyways i hope this might have helped you out a bit.
lightweight windows would be lexan, not sure if its street legal yet and it scratches super easy.

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sorry about the misunderstanding about the wrong thread area i did not know that the moderators could switch the topic over. thats pretty cool, but how come after it was switched the moderators message wasn't erased? i mean its not like he needed it anymore right?



how come everyone seems to dog on my advice, and the advice they agree with they cut into pieces? you could have just agreed with me rather than cutting my paragraphs apart. i mean its nice that you have something to say about it but if your just going to agree with it. why not just say that you agree with it, and then just add whatever else that you feel needs to be added?



a test pipe to eliminate the cat? i suggest using a high flow cat we want street legal don't we? throwing on straight piping in this day and age is not only illegal, but its also a waste. our cars are all fuel injected now, that means the computer will add hp more than your additions. the computers are programmed to read with a back pressure on the O2 sensor. to cut out your back pressure means to get a high oxygen count. now your computer will dump more fuel even if it has nowhere to go causing strain on your fuel pump. ever wonder why when guys put in 3 1/2 inch exhaust with no cat they are constantly changing their fuel pumps? thats why no matter what you do, your pump is going to try to over pressurize the fuel lines. sometimes it causes your injectors to leak, or your fuel rail to give out. its a mess to not use some kind of back pressure, plus you lose HP at the top end of your RPM application. your HP peak will be sooner than you want it. i don't really know why you do, i just know that you do. that in addition to causing problems for your fuel system. it happened to me when i straight piped my 71 ford pickup. she was an ugly truck, but man, when i drove by in that thing people would always watch. but as i was speeding up i noticed that right before my transmission switched gears the engine would lag a little. never happend before i straight piped it.



i don't even know what the technical term for it is. but if you ment by the flex pipe i would assume that if someone upgrades their exhaust system they would buy the correct flex pipe to connect the catback to the headers. it only makes sense. and its not like performance flex pipes are made so just get the correct sizing. if you go with 2 and 1/4" piping then get a 2 and 1/4" flex pipe.



yes cold air or ram air intake for a turbo is a actual term. one has a down pipe, and one stays in the engine compartment, both using a high flow air filter. normally people use the short half sphere types because the cylindrical types tend to collapse under such high vacuum pressures.



poly port polished, i guess you'd have to know some really old race car guys to hear it called that or read hotrod magazine. i'm from utah i lived just a hour and 15 minute drive from the boneville salt flats so sorry if the terminology is slightly incorrect or different. its the same thing potato, potawto, pajama, pajawma.



the windows you can use thin plexi glass plates for racing windows. plexi glass wheighs a lot les than glass does. you simply get a large square plate of plexi glass then heat it up with a propane area heater (you know the ones you use to heat your garage when your working on your car in the winter they have the huge steel cage surround it and the burner is about 2 1/2 feet tall or taller) heat it by hanging the piece next to the burner for about 10 minutes about 3 feet to 4 feet away. let it get nice and hot make sure its all going to bend before you take it off or you'll have to wait for it to heat up again. if you don't its ok as long as you don't burn the plexi glass your fine. then take your stock window out and form the plate to your stock window. then trace and cut out the exact shape of your window remembering to leave 1/8" extra so you can sand and form the edges to round out. drill out the retaining holes. then put on invisible bra coating on to keep them from scratching i believe its clear vinyl. then attatch, i'm pretty sure they aren't street legal per say, but as long as you keep your windshield stock and then replace everything else i think you'll be ok. i mean i have never heard of anyone getting pulled over because they had the ever so often clear film duct taped to their side windows when the stock ones were shattered from being broken into right? i mean as long as they see a window there i don't think they are going to go flicking it to see if it sounds like glass or plastic. plus the windshields on bullet bikes are plexi glass and the back of soft top convertibles cars are just thick vinyl. so who's to say they have less protection than those things hmm? some DOT regulations are set up to help out the economy not because they are actually proven to be a necessity. if its not true then why require seat belts fro everyone? it leaves nothing on the Department Of Transportations hands if you choose not to wear it. it helps cops make money, judges, it also helps to regulate insurance claims and so on and so on down the hill it rolls. but what personally does it help, other than the supported claim you won't die in a accident ff your wearing one? no, so i think that this rule might just be one of those lame rules to hook up businesses with customers.



also for interior i know this guy who removed all of his internal plastics and back seats, modded his doors to have the doors open with little turn nobs so he could open and close his doors with the nobs themselves. he then had a upholstery shop upholster over all the interior with a small layer of padding and fabric. it looked really good and was super light weight. he weighed his plastics and rear seat verse the material they used, it wasn't a ton different but was definitely lighter by about 20 lbs. i know that doesn't mean that much to most people but he was into racing a little more than most people are. it looked like a street legal modded car but wasn't even close to being street legal.


anyways not to get off point but you have all this great information on how to mod an engine yet i have heard nothing on my thread about my throttle body problem. do you happen to know anything about that? its topic is in G3 00-05 eclipse thread is "fuel problems" description says "engine will crank but won't start." check it out and give me the correct thread to go to. so i can get a answer please. i'm still very new to this forum myself.
 

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I asked what you meant by poly because I thought it may be different.
 
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ias far as i know you basically replace your head for a head that has a poly spherical top just below the inlet and outlet ports. i was told its a gas guzzling air breathing monster of a head for a motor. then you take your intake mainfold off and head grind down the inlet and outlet ports to match your intake gasket, using a dye to mark the places where you need to grind so you don't over grind or under grind. because most intakes normally have overlay or extra metal hanging out making the inlets and outlets smaller than what they are technically supposed to be at . you then put your intake into a bead blaster and use the soft plastic beads to polish the insides of your intake manifold. and use light sand paper and emery cloth dremil for your head and valves polishing them to a shine. but don't quote me on it as i have never done it myself and only seen it in progress like 2 or 3 times.
 
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