[NoogaboX]

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This is what I had to start with. The run of the mill 420a Motor with a mildly blown head gasket.

I had many parts powder coated and to date I actually need to recoat one ( I didnt judge hood clearance and scraped the Tial wastegate) This is mosly what I am relying on to clean up the Engine bay to show acceplable street class.

For every smartie out there who thinks that powdercoat wont work on a turbo I have been running the turbo for three months with no problems.

Funny enough the hardest part of the Turbo install I did was getting the Exhuast manifold off. Every bolt was already stripped by previous owner or shop and made it a **** of a time to get the heat shield off! I actually had to chisel them off and it took all night



Here is the manifold unbolted finally, Oh and the manifold uses a couple different sizes of studs, dont ask I was scratching my head too.

Here is the turbo manifold lined up on the block, this is the old stainless exhaust gasket. It was very rusted and no I wont use this one agian.


Here is the Turbo bolted up and I painted the Manifold and turbo High temp semigloss black. This is temporary because the gloss will not stay through the heat. I will need to have this manifold coated with powdercoat later. I was already a week behind and my GF was mad the car was still in the garage so the Coating of the manifold will be a different day.

Here is a Day shot of the fresh T3/T4 Turbonetics turbo. The VROG FMU from Hahn was installed at a place down the street. I didtn have line wrenches and I was tired from being up all night from all the other work. While I was there I had them install the oil line supply for the turbo too.

The car says I eat HOndas ! no really when I was takin him apart I swear there was a 1.8 l tranny in the back of the intake ......JK

This is the larg version of me working in the rain, If I could stand jessi wanted me working on it

Here is the used intercooler I installed. I got this with the BOV and piping on ebay. It is dented but holds boost and is fint until I can afford the 600 dollar Spearco intercooler I want for the car.

Yes I know its a little crooked , I took the picture just to see what it would look like but you gotta loosen the mounting screws to get the IC piping to spread far enough apart to get the couplers on! Everything was bent very tight.

This was the single bent pipe that I used to run down to the cool side of the intercooler. I didnt want any couplers on this portion since the engine rocks back and forth. So insteead the pip will flex slightly and only two coupler flex. I have been boosting since Dec 2007 like this and I have not had a problem yet.

This was the hardest connection to make. It looks easy but the coupler is weak and doesnt have alot of strength for tension. I had to rap it with electrical tape and seal it with silocon on the inside. I didnt have time to wait on a coupler I was in somone elses garage. However on a lighter point this fix also seems to have worked very well and is still holding up even today ( yeah I should get a new coupler)

This is what the pipes connecting the intercooler looked like at first. They werent perfectly lined up with the IC. However this was how it had to be because the pipe had to make such a tight curve. I wish I still had my welder and I would just make all new piping myself.

Later that day I still could not get the pipes to hold in what I believe would be permenant. I beet my head agianst the wall for another 6 hours until I realized that Radiator hose is rated at 45 Psi and thats alot more that the boost I would run. My solution ended up being to make a coupler that was 2 inches longer and signifigantly beefier to handle the torque from the engine tuggin on it.

This is the end result of cutting a new section of hose for a coupler to tame the difficult high tension piping. I painted the piping black just becuase It looked wierd to have some chromed piping and some stainless steel that not polished beside each other. this realy cleaned it up.



I put a Small Red Tial Spring in which regulated the boost to 5 psi. That is until I purchase injectors and a calibration unit for the FMU.



I agian banged my head agianst the wall because no matter what I did I couldnt get all four mounting holes on each side of the tial to line up. At best I could get 3. What happened is that the Tial wastegate flange was welded outside the car, before it cooled the guy sprayed it with water.... ANYTIME you spray somthing with water that was jsut molten will warp slightly so when I unbolted the parts and tried to put them back together they didnt fit. However I leaned the fuel out a bit and let the car idle, the manifold got hot enough that the metal ( metal has memory) moved back to the way it was before it was sprayed with water and I screwed the one bolt in. I also too the time to tighten the other studs while it was warm.

This is the FMU idle screw, the darn shop that installed the FMU had the dile pressure set at 4 psi, what morons! no wonder it ran like ****



I used this supplied guage and threaded it to the FMU to moniter fuel pressure when tuning.

I adjusted the fuel till it was 55 psi, stock pressure
The momen of truth I started the car and had somone follow me around the block. The car overheated. For some reason the stock clamp wasnt making a seal, so I put a Worm gear clamp above it on the hose, added more water and tried agian and it drove fine. the car felt like a different machine all together. It probably has arounf 200 whp right now and I will bump the Boost as soon as I get the new injectors and intake in!