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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. I am trying to figure out my options for swapping the engine in my lancer 2005. The engine is a worn out 4G13. What are my options for swapping the engine with the least amount of modifications. Any help would be highly appreciated.
 

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Least amount of work is a direct swap - that way cables, connectors, gearbox, drivetrain and electronics fit.

But I think what you are trying to ask is how much work would a bigger engine be
and which one would generate the least amount of work.

No luck - as soon as you go for a bigger engine - it´s huge.

Engine needs electronics and therefor cables and connectors - you might end up replacing half the cables in your car.
Clutch and transmission are next - have to match the torque of the engine.
Don´t forget to swap brake system too (booster, discs, calipers) - the list goes on and on

Only possibility might be same engine with slightly more bore and / or stroke which still uses same clutch and trans
Go through the models of your car and try to find one.
Maybe your lucky and the electronics you have still work ...

IMHO - cheapest way to get a faster car is to buy one ... unless you consider proper maintenance :laughing:
 

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Xrx has this quite right. The cost of any swap on such a vehicle is going to cost more than the value of the vehicle unless it is a direct swap. Even if you were to take an alternate lancer engine from that generation it would fit etc but the cost of the new mounts and potential wiring changes buying a used one with such would be cheaper, oh and a potential re-tune or ECU swap. Another 4G13 is really going to be your best value and least work.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
XRX and Izerous, thank you for your consideration, but here in pakistan we have very cheap labour. For, Instance the complete engine swap would cost me around $100 in terms of labor. the engine would cost me between $ 500 to $800 maximum.
My current engine has almost 200k on the odo. It now gives white smoke and i have to top up the lubricant oil every now and then. In other words, the engine is done. the overhauling would also cost me around around $500 but it is not a good option in my opinion as the parts used available are not genuine.
In pakistan, two variants of lancer were sold, the 1.3 model (which i own 4G13) and the 1.6L one.
Now what i want is to change the engine such that the mods are minimal. Like i would only have to change the engine block and not even the tranny if its possible. because the rest of my car is 100% trouble free.
Therefore, i would like to know what are the engines i can swap for 4G13 which have the same mounts, tranny etc..
Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After some search, i have reason to believe that the following engines are suitable for swap:

4G13 1.3 L SOHC ~ 80 hp
4G15 1.5 L SOHC ~ 92 hp
4G15 1.5 L DOHC ~ 100 hp
4G18 1.6 L SOHC ~ 105 hp
4G92 1.6 L MIVEC DOHC ~ 170 hp

I think the least work required would be in 4G13, 4G15 (SOHC), and 4G18.
All of these engines came in Lancer. So i'm guessing no need to change the mounts. Only Engine Assembly/ Block, maybe tranny and/ or ECU.
I would research 4g92 also. If no major work is required, i would definitely go for 4G92. But i think when swapping from SOHC to DOHC, i'll face issues won't I?
I need suggestions brothers.
 

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Actually I was assuming you were going to do it yourself.
Labour here in the Philippines is cheap too - I just don´t trust the quality of workmanship.

Like I said - a mild increase in horsepower might just work.
Looking at your list I would take a closer look at the 4G18 1.6 L SOHC ~ 105 hp
That engine might be the same block - just bigger bore and stroke.
The MIVEC sounds tempting - but you will definetly have to change a lot more.
First thing would be the electronics because it´s a MIVEC engine.
Next is definetly trans and clutch - your clutch would just burn.
Everything else related to power would have to be changed - brakes, drivetrain, etc.


SOHC - Single Over Head Cam
DOHC - Double Over Head Cam

Cam or camshaft is what opens the valves - in OHC engines - as name indicates - it´s on top of cylinder head.
You can either have one or two cams - intake and exhaust valves - performance engines have two cams
- needed because valves are so far apart due to design of combustion chamber (Hemispherical)

Two cams are more expensive than one ... so standard engines / cars get one cam

Bottom line - SOHC or DOHC has nothing to do with it.

Your sole concern should be amount of power.

Take a look at the rear brake discs of a heavy fast car - let´s say a BMW M5 - they have the size of a pizza.
Yours are probably drums ...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do all the engines of the same family have the same block??? Like 4G13, 4G15, 4G18 etc..
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am hearing some good stuff about the 4G15 engine in the local market. My mechanic is highly recommending the 4G15. He says that this engine is the best engine in terms of durability and reliability. the hp is also livable. Its easily available too.
 

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Sounds good.

Now all you have to do is confirm it´s easily swapable.

Hope somebody else here can confirm it´s the same block - just more bore and stroke. EDIT: According to wikipedia it is

That way engine mounts fit - maybe even transmission too. EDIT: Check car with 1.5l engine - what trans does it have?

Quote from wikepedia:

"The 4g15 is known as one of the longest lived japanese engines ever produced there was a recorded instance of the engine exceeding 997.000 miles in a 1998 mitsubishi mirage sedan."
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok . . So now i have finalized my decision to go for 4G15 after confirming availability in the market.
The problem i'm facing now is regarding the decision to go for SOHC or DOHC.
My mechanic says that if i go for SOHC, he would only require the engine assembly (block and head). He says that the rest of my engine is absolutely perfect and that i should not change/ swap any other thing e.g ECU, Air Conditioning Compressor, Water Pump etc...
But if i go for DOHC, neither my mechanic nor I am sure of exactly what further changes i would require. My mechanic says that he can only figure that out while actually swapping . . not in advance :(

For instance,

Engine block,
Engine Head,
ECU.

Are these the only components or the intake manifold and other stuff would also have to be replaced?
If the SOHC and DOHC have the same block but different heads only, then is it safe to assume that the ancillaries would fit to both?

Thanks in advance.

P.S i was surprised by the variety of engine availability in the market and would for sure post pics next time.
 

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Like I said - SOHC - standard
DOHC - more power.
I would assume intake plenum amd other things regarding air intake are different if you compare SOHC to DOHC.
The reason to have DOHC is more power - probably also due to two intake valves instead of one.
And that probably makes the intake completely different.

My advice - go with the SOHC
 

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Discussion Starter #12
4G15 SOHC is 12 valve and DOHC is 16 valve
both have 2 intake valves
However, SOHC is 1 exhaust valve per cylinder and DOHC is 2 exhaust valves per cylinder.
 

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I was referring to your 1.3 engine.
Does your 1.3 SOHC have 2 intake valves?
If yes - maybe intake plenum fits. If 1 - I guess it won´t fit.
If your engine has 1 exhaust valve and the DOHC engine has 2 - exhaust manifold will probably not fit.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally swapped the 4G13 with 4G18 assembly . . . First Click Start.
All i changed is the block and the head. Same Tranny, water pump, generator, belts, compressor, water body, ECU. Everything fit perfectly. Took about 4 hrs at the workshop.
Now facing some minor issues which i will figure out on Sunday. Currently enjoying the upgrade from 1.3L to 1.6L :)

Issue # 1

The car was running just fine the first day but the second day i'm facing idling issues. First of all, the car idles at 3k rpm when cold starts in the morning till it warms up. Then, throughout the day, whenever it idles, it fluctuates between 1k and 1.5k a couple of times and then stays at 2k rpm!!! WTH??? But when i switched on the Air Conditioning, the idling stables at 1k.

Issue # 2

The engine does not gain the right power when the engine speed is between 2k - 3k rpm. after that . . bam. It's almost a MIVEC right now :p
The mechanic says its the coils . . he says that the car is "missing" due to coils. My question is why don't the coils malfunction at higher engine speeds and only in this spectrum?

P.S Any questions regarding engine swap from 4G13 to 4G18 in cs2A lancer are more than welcome!
 

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At higher speeds your alternator might be pushing out more voltage allowing the coils to fire properly. At idles speeds lower voltage thus issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So the problem might be with my alternator or with the coils???
Also, how can i determine the origin of my swapped engine???
And how come the ECU of 4G13 1.3L engine is working perfectly fine with 4G18 1.6 L engine???
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (AaDi @ Jan 20 2016, 05:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Also, how can i determine the origin of my swapped engine???
And how come the ECU of 4G13 1.3L engine is working perfectly fine with 4G18 1.6 L engine???[/b]
my thoughts only

ECU working because ..

.they are both 4G series... SOHC engines ...only 300 cc capacity difference
I think you used the same engine bay loom

how to find an engines origin

check out this 05 Mitsubishi vin decoder link ....

.. lancer is listed ..use your vin and you wont be too far off your question

https://mcarsstatic.cachefly.net/pdf/owners...tion/05VINs.pdf

engine numbers at stamped at the engine building factory ...(possibly japan ?)
then the engine number is added to the VIN plate during assembly

not sure what happens in Pakistan

most country vehicle registrations places may offer a vehicle history search form to fill out .

helps if you knew the rego plate of the donor vehicle...

the vin number of the donating chassis (depends on state laws supplier may add this info on the receipt )
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thank you for your input Chain Rattle

My question still remains:

As of my understanding, the ECU is responsible or trained to adjust fuel input to the engine with respect to throttle position, engine speed/ rpm, and MAF sensor input etc.. Now, the 1.3L engine will require less fuel under same circumstances as compared to the 1.6L engine. So, how is it running perfectly?

The link that you provided is not of any help to me because i dont have the VIN of the engine, i only have the engine serail embedded into the block : 4G18 GQ7925.
Furthermore, my 4G13 was silver top whereas the 4G18 i swapped is black top. Maybe this helps to narrow down the origin? The reason i'm asking is because the 4G18 had three different valve timings/ angles for three different regions!!! only one of em matches with the 4G13. So . . . !!!
 

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you ask very good questions

wait and see if someone else comes into the conversation

xrxaa01 and Izerous are doing better than me these day s

I dont know how you can track the engine origin from what information you have

for your valve timing information see attached .... 4G13 and 4G18 valve timings are the same


source
4G engine series engine repair manual link 99 page pdf
http://mitsubishi-motors.kiev.ua/Manuals/E...wee9520/11A.pdf


ECU

I am no ECU guru ... you are in to dyno technology to answer this question ..they can read everything out of an ECU through your diagnostic port

agreed here . the ECU is responsible or trained to adjust fuel input to the engine with respect to throttle position, engine speed/ rpm, and MAF sensor input etc..

if you fitted a different (say twin cam or mirvic ) G series engine then you would have had to change ECUs

my understaning of this
that the ECU mapping for both theseECUs 1.3 and 1.6 cc engines from factory will be almost identical.... you use the same sensors maf idle control valve injectors etc

its only 300 cc difference for the 4 cylinders ..thats only 75 cc of fuel per cylinder .. so fuel consumption and other factors are not so different

the ECU with the 1.3 would compensate more than that on ....say a 600 rpm increase at an acceleration.. the 1.6 wont even notice a change


the ECU and all the related sensors pushing their data into the ECU must be working ..to process all that data and it can that well for you
 

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Most cars from the factory run a touch rich, it is a little safer than running lean and it allows the car to drive a bit smoother.

Your fuel amounts are also in part controlled by your O2 sensors so it measures before and after to help make adjustments.

This combined with what chain rattle has already mention about the truly small difference allows the ECU to mostly adjust just maybe running a touch lean.
 
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