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does anyone have any suggestions for expo mod's? i haven't been able to find(though i've not been going crazy about it) any info on parts specific to the expo,
i guess because it's old and no longer in mitsubishi's usa line-up. like most of us,
i'm interested in simple intake and exhaust mod's, and also some suspension tweaks, though i'm afraid i won't be able to find heftier sway-bars. i wouldn't mind some sportier, rallye-type struts and possibly raising the whole thing a couple of inches. granted, not what a rallye-wannabe needs for handling, but with all the pot holes and road construction going on around here, and in the absence of any kind of skid plate, two or so inches would help a great deal. y'all should see my oil pan w/ all its creases and dents and all the scratches on the engine cross-member....anyway, any thoughts/ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Hi, new to the forum, and kinda' resurrecting an old post here, but here's what I'm thinking of doing to get aabout an inch and a half of lift on mine.

NOTE: This is an un-tried idea and I DO NOT recommend anyone else try it.

What I'm thinking of doing to the front is getting some "coupling nuts" - like a regular nut only about an inch and a quarter tall - with the same size and thread as the front McPherson strut mounting studs, some heavy-duty washers that will fit over the studs, and some short grade 8 bolts that will thread into them.

Unbolt all 3 of the studs to allow the strut to be lowered. Install a washer over the stud, and screw on the coupler and tighten it down. Then put a washer on top of the coupler and put one of the short bolts down through the McPherson strut mounting hole and thread it into the coupler. Basically this will create three one and a half inch tall spacers between the McPherson strut and the body. The washers will help to spread the weight and stress over a larger area than the coupler nuts would by themselves so that the body and McPherson strut flange don't deform.

For the rear I plan on using a set of those overload coil springs that go around the shocks and adjusting them to give it an inch or so of boost. An inch in the rear and an inch and a half up front ought to make it pretty much level front to rear since it is slightly higher in the rear than in the front right now.

As stated above, I DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT ANYONE ELSE TRY THIS! I haven't tried it myself (yet) so I can't say how well it will work. I'll let you know once I give it a try :D
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (BobC92 @ Jun 17 2005, 11:48 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
WOW! I've never seen an auto enthusiast forum that was so DEAD!

5 days and not a single comment. Hmmmmmn.....[/b]
Hello there BobC92. How's your expo? I've been reading your posts and found it quite interesting. I saw on other forums you were planning on installing a bigger throttle body after you installed the cone filter. Have you done this already? What else have you done to increase the power of the engine?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (mcclement @ Dec 9 2008, 01:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Hello there BobC92. How's your expo? I've been reading your posts and found it quite interesting. I saw on other forums you were planning on installing a bigger throttle body after you installed the cone filter. Have you done this already? What else have you done to increase the power of the engine?[/b]
Do not even bother with those "mods". Whatever power you might (or might not) get with them will be minimal! 10-15hp at best!

It is relatively easy to bolt-on a turbo from an Eclipse, Galant VR4 or EVO1-3. Along with bigger injectors, fuel pump and a simple fuel computer. And that can give you some MAJOR power boost! That can easily give you 50-60hp!
 

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There are many things that can be dun to many opf These models as other models. many things that bolt on frum many a model. Some are simple and other more thorough work needs to be dun depending on wut it is yu plan to do. It also depends on the engine to which yu are using. Suspension is an easy trick depending on wut yu are planning and the year model yu have. If yu are also planning doing rear wheel disc conversions , 5 wheel lug conversion , larger brake conversion its also simple to do also.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (KiT TeUnG 2549 @ Dec 11 2008, 07:42 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
There are many things that can be dun to many opf These models as other models. many things that bolt on frum many a model. Some are simple and other more thorough work needs to be dun depending on wut it is yu plan to do. It also depends on the engine to which yu are using. Suspension is an easy trick depending on wut yu are planning and the year model yu have. If yu are also planning doing rear wheel disc conversions , 5 wheel lug conversion , larger brake conversion its also simple to do also.[/b]
You peaked my interest with the mentioning of 5 lug conversion... Do you know which hubs can be used on LRV (RVR) for rear 5 lug conversion?
 

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Just as chassis wise the Eclipse and LRV, RVR Expo started frum the basis of the Galant , depending the year. The 5 lug hub frum the Eclipse or the GTO , according to the year will swap out.

If dealing with the beam axle rear end and non multilink or AWD the 5 lug Eclipse will fit (1990-1994 USA Eclipse) The rear brake caliper frum the Eclipse will fit also, but the 1987-1991 Mitsubishi Galant rear disc brake rotors and calipers are a direct bolt up. Getting the hand brake cable to attatch to the caliper to convert frum the drum is not hard at all.

When dealing with AWD , the same goes , yu will have to get hub for AWD Eclipse or Galant and press in the 5 lug hub to bearing or use the complete Eclipse hub.(not spindle) If yu have a wreckers near yu can simple go and compare.

If yu arte dealing with a ..i want to say possibly 1993 up LRV RVR Expo etc , the rear disc brake set up will be diff.

If yu are converting to rear disc yu will need rear disc components frum a 1992-1996 Mitsubishi Galant (1994-1995 Galant USA with rear disc brakes) If yu are staying with 4 Lug just get rear brake rotors for that year Galant , The same goes if yu are converting a Galant with rear drum brakes to disc.

On models with this rear brake system yu can use the following caliper and backing plate (the backing plate has the hand brake shoes on them) Since the chassis and suspension of all these models derived frum the Galant (except the Diamante)
The 1995-2000 Chrysler Sebring and Dodge Avenger, 1995-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse and Eagle Talon 1996(1997 american market )-2003 Mitsubishi Diamante. or Mitsubishi Galant with rear disc brakes. On the inside of the spindle there are 4 bolts that hold the hub to the spindle. After yu remove these the backing plate that holds the caliper and the handbrake shoes(emergency brake assy.) Its very easy. If yu are staying with 4 lugs yur original spindle will be used and a 4 lug brake rotor. if yu are converting to 5 lug , yu can simply use the 5 lug spindle frum the Diamante , Eclipse/talon , Sebring or Avenger, they bolt up directly.

Yu will need the cable bracket that holds the hand brake cable on the backing plate. Also leave the brake hose on the caliper as it screws into the line at the frame as did yur original brakes. The Diamante is the onlee one that the Caliper uses diffrent rear brake caliper (a beefier one) than the others. The others all use the same brake caliper.

Converting the frunt to 5 lug isnt terribly hard but in sum situations require a little more work. . Also converting to beefier frunt calipers is a sinch also because most of the calipers(minus ) the mounting bracket will bolt on. Like dual piston calipers on the 3000Gt/GTO and Diamante and Eclipse with Turbo. I will be doing a step by step with pics , ill will upload it in the 7G Galant section , for converting to rear disc and bigger brakes or 5 lugs , i can here also since its the same principle as teh Galant if there is interest
 
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