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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

During my 72000km service the dealer noticed that my drivers side rear wheel has some play (you can wiggle it very slightly). His recommended fix was to replace both drivers and passengers side upper control arms in the rear suspension. His quote was $700. The warranty on that part expired at 60000km. This ticked me off a bit. I'm sure the problem was diagnosable at 60000km when I went in for my service. They just waited until now so that they can bill me.

I jacked the car up and it looks to me like just the bushing is worn out. Thats clearly where the linkage is moving around. So my question is: How hard is it to replace the upper control arm bushing?
 

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[attachmentid=3979]The rear upper control bushings and the dogbone bushings do wear out prematurely but 700$ is rediculous. The upper control arm cost is 80$ in Canada and is held in place by 2 bolts torked at 70 foot-pounds and takes 15 minutes if you take your time. There is no need to realign rear if it wasn't aligned with worn bushing. The dogbones cost 32$ but those are a little harder to change. Had mine changed at my local garage for 45$ including torch charges. You can see these pictures (with mods)in the suspension area of my garage OUTY.


Just noticed in the picture you even have the part number for the control arm but this one is for the AWD.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks a lot. Do you know where I can buy the arm in Canada? As well as other mitsubishi parts? I've had trouble at my local canadian tire in the past.

Also, I have the AWD as well, so the part number in your picture should be perfect.

Again, thanks for the help.
 

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Your Mitsubishi dealer is the best place for best price on those parts. If you replace the dogbones your also going to probably have to replace ecentric or toe bolts. 3.62$ at dealer 19.99$ a set at car part store.
 

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You will know quick enough when the dogbone outer pivot bushing is worn-out you will start to wear inside of tire and won't be able to align toe and it's not the cold it's the road salt that gets in past the seal on the pivot ball bushing.Thats why I added grease nipples on my new ones as seen in the picture I posted earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I finally got around to changing the upper arms about 2000km ago or so. Everything seemed fine at first, but now I get a lot of creaking. I've jacked up the car and I can't feel any play at all in the wheels, but they both creak, passenger side worse than the driver.

I notice someone said 70 ft lbs... I have a manual which says 90... Could they be over torqued?

Since there is no play, I can't visually see which bushing is worn. So how do I figure out what to change next?
 

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The dealer has this unit where they attach sensors to all these different bushings so they can tell which one is creaking. It might just be the saddle bushing on your swaybar if it sounds like an old school bus.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah its more a creaking/groaning noise rather than a high pitched squeek. Its also not entirely consistent. Sometimes I can reproduce it with the car parked and me just rocking it side to side. Other times I can't get the sound to reproduce until I drive a little bit (1km or so).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I had the situation with the obviously cambered in wheels. But that was due to the worn upper arm bushing. I've replaced the whole upper arm about 2 months ago. Now I've got a new creaking groaning sound. However, there is no obvious play, and no obvious camber problem.

So you think its the lower armbushing? Outy think its the dog bone. Possible the sway bar bushing.

No way to narrow it down?
 

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I just drilled all the way to pivot point and tapped for grease nipple. I just use regular grease everytime I get close to suspension. I have over 160000Kms on bushings now and still going. I last replaced them at 76000Kms. I know they will still wear eventually but they last a lot longer this way. My lower control arms just have a straight rubber bushing (no pivot ball or shoulder bushing) unlike US model.
 

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This is a personnal message I received and thought others would benifit.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
''Hi Outy, I was hoping you could help me out. I'm having some rear suspension issues. My lower control arm bushings and shocks were really shot, and it made the camber on the rear look really bad. I recently replaced the control arms and the shocks, but now when I drive, the rear of the car drifts. It also drifts very easily when I hit bumps. One thing I noticed on the instalation was that the endlinks on the sway bar were bad as well. I'm planning on replacing them on friday, but can they really make that big of a difference? If you have any advice I would really appreciate it. Thanks for your time. By the way, my car is a awd 03 outlander. ''[/b]
Lift rear and check for play at top of wheel. When dogbone outer bushing goes bad it affects toe so the rear tends to fishtail. Upper control arm bushings might also be bad....
I have over 366,000Kms and have not replaced upper control arms or dogbones since my modification. This means 290,000Kms without a rear suspension issue other than shocks.

It is not dangerous on bare pavement but if you have winters in your area you will definitely want to change these before icy conditions or before putting on a new set of tires because this condition will wear inside of rear tires pretty quick.
Having the rear wanting to pass you is no fun to drive.
 

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Just to keep this post going. I changed every arm in the rear suspension, and it took me 3 days of grueling work. Where I live the winters can be bad, and the road salt helps to add to rusting. I don't have a garage or air tools, just your basic hand tools, and an angle grinder. Basically, all of the parts on the rear suspension were so shot, they to be cut off. Next problem was getting to the top bolts of the dog bone. Since the nut is welded to the inside of the rear crossmember, one of them stripped on the inside. The remedy you ask? I first had to lower the rear cross member. It has 4 bolts on each side. I needed to remove the strut as well because its in the way. Once I cut out the rear upper link, I needed to cut a hole on the top of the crossmember, then cut that stripped welded bolt off. I finally put the link back on with a new bolt and nut and tightened up a little over snug. The next challenge was at the trailing arms where the link attaches to. Same deal, stripped, so I cut out the welded nut and replaced them with a new bolt and nut. It took me 3 days because I don't have any air tools, or a impact wrench or gun, and I didn't have any help. I first started out changing the lower control arms, and the struts. That made the rear end fish tail. I'm the person Outy wast talking about in the post. He told me I had to replace the all for upper connections and I did. I have had it running for 5 days now, and the car runs really great now. The toe or camber issue and squeaking I had all gone. Next thing that needs doing is replaceing all 4 tires and having the car alligned. I hope this was informative and that someone doesn't have to go thru the headache I went thru. It happened to me this way because I let it go for 2 years.
 

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Did you add grease nipples on shoulder bushings before installing upper control arms and dogbones?
No joke I have over 314,000Kms (195,274 miles) on my bushings since I added grease nipples. It works!
Passed inspection today no sweat but I need a gas tank...... I have a little over 367,000 Kms on my Outy and I need for it to hold on for one more winter.
Maritime Sea salt and road salt taking it's toll on my OUTY.
 

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Just thought I would update on my attempts to re-condition my control arm because of noise and uneven tyre wear. I replaced one with a new arm but because of the cost in the UK I decided to play with the one I removed. I drilled out the outer bush and pushed in a new one with a vice and large sockets.
I have found that after 2000 miles replacing the outer bush only with a Landrover Freelander bush gsx101010 (you need 2x 12mm washers each side of this bush as the crush tube is narrower) will stop the uneven tyre wear but does'nt stop the noise. I decided to remove the arm again to drill the inner joint and add a grease nipple as Outy did. I decided not to replace this bush as I could feel no play in it as the outer one takes all the strain.
The niose did stop for a few miles after greasing but returned later. At least the tyre wear has stopped. I can put up with the noise as the job cost me £10 compared to £160 for a new arm.
I shall replace both bushes on the spare one I have when I start hunting for a cheap way of replacing the rear diff mount bushes and get back to you on that.
 

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I think am in the right place for my question:
Now i had some noise when i go into a rough roads and feeling like something loose in the front side both driver and passenger side, also its making a funny noise with bumps sounds like an old door while you open it..
Went for the garage to check it out, then been told to replace the following:
1-Stabilizer links front and rear
2-Stabilizer links bushing front and rear
3-Ball joint
4-tie rod ends

Also i noticed that the front tires are wearing from outside
Do i need to replace anything else?
Also been told to enhance my chocks with a heavy duty coil for rear and front, since roads are really bad here in Kenya
 

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Somehow, i dont think the dealership would get $700. I would bet most dealerships would rather charge you $700 than get $600 from Mitsubishi Motors. BTW I do realize this is an old thread, came here for this exact issue. Pity about not being able to replace only the bushing
 
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