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Discussion Starter #1
I just drove my 2004 Endeavor home tonight, and I am already thinking of adding on to the stock stereo. Its an LS model with an adequate sound system, but after trading in my puny Toyota pickup, I have long awaited the chance (room) to install a substantial sound system. I will retain the stock head unit because I don't want to hack up the dash as of yet, but I would like to add an aftermarket amp and sub(s). Has anyone had any luck "tapping into" the stock connectors in a resonably accessible fashion on one of these vehicles? If so, I would love some details! I made the typical trip to Best Buy to consult the standard $8 an hour high school kid who could barely follow what I was talking about as I described what I was thinking. Plan B is to go to a pro audio store to have it done professionaly, but my wallet is still smoldering from the initial purchase of the vehicle. I also like installing my own gear, since I have been bitten by shoddy / overpriced install jobs performed by a Bubba whose idea of a wire splice is 1/4 inch of twisted wire and an inch or so of electrical tape. Anyone out there know what I mean?
Thanks, Mike
 

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questioin is does the stock head unit come with amp connections? if it doesnt then your going to have to get a aftermarket head unit. theres no way around the access to the wirting you gotta take the trim off then the radio out
 

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Tonight I took off the kick-panel and crawled under the dash with a flashlight. I discovered that the entire center section / front silver "robot" panel pops out with ridiculous ease- Anyway, I believe that I have no external amp, which will make this project a few degrees more complex. I am thinking of ordering a dash modification kit, but I am not just ready to take a dremel moto tool to the dash of a vehicle that I have owned for two whole days! I have done crazier things, so who knows. I did stop by a reputable shop and get some opinions, and they seemed to think that it would be easy to tap into the stock speaker-level outputs in order to graft in a line-level amp / splitter. This would then route rca line inputs to the front & back, left & right, & sub inputs of aftermarket amps. The line level amp is about $160 for openers. I'll keep you posted as this all develops. I might even take a few pics and post them on the web- since I cannot seem to find one single google hit that addresses the exact flavor of project I am thinking of getting myself into.
Later, Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A little more-
I have an LS model with no apparent external amp. Here is another big question- does anyone know the diameter of the door speakers?
By the way, I may have located a salvaged radio bezel that could possibly be used as an experiment... Its only 35 bucks, so why not?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I called the dealer today and spoke to their parts department- I had the guy do a lookup on the stock door speakers, and he showed them as 16cm. I also found a compatibilty link on ebay that showed the door speakers to be 6.5". I ordered a set of Infinity Perfect 6.1 components for the front (ebay $187, $424 local retail store), and a pair of 62.5i for the back(ebay $64, $148 local retail store). The thickness of the door makes me imagine that mounting depth won't be a problem, but you never know until you actually try it. Phase 1 of this project will be the installation of these speakers, powered by the stock head unit's speaker-level outputs fed into an Alpine V12 four channel amp ($140 local pawnshop). Phase 2 will be to run an Adcom 2 channel amp off the preamp outputs of the V12, used to power the front speakers. The 3 + 4 channels of the V12 will then be bridged and run to a single 12" sub in a hand made enclosure. Phase 3 is a head unit swap. I have ordered a "spare" radio cover from an auto salvage company. I am going to see if I can graft an adapter for a standard DIN head unit into it without making it look like junk. If I can make it look good, I will install it in the vehicle. The install shops I have talked to would not be willing to touch such a job. I'm reasonably crafty with my trusty Dremel Moto Tool, so we will see.
Later, Mike
 

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This is perfect, thanks mikkojay! Please keep us updated with how you make out. You're doing everything i hope to do in the future. I plan to tap into the existing wire leads so i can run some RCA's to some amps without changing the stock head unit. My plan is to add an amp to power the existing speakers and i'd like to add an 8inch sub. I have an LS model which doesn't come with the 8inch sub, but the XLS model has one doesn't it? i'd like to find out where they put the sub in the XLS model so hopefully i can use the same location?

we'll see how it sounds with the stock speakers and an 8inch sub but with better power going to them. i may have to replace the rest of the speaks too.

let us know how it sounds!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here is the latest update-

Let's see how many pics I can stuff in here-
[attachmentid=225]
The first set is the Sony head unit I installed in the factory pocket.
Note on this one, the Metra pocket adapter works SLICK and fits perfectly.
[attachmentid=226]
[attachmentid=227]
I don't have a power seat, so I borrowed some juice from the hot
lead under the driver's seat that was not being used to power the
Alpine amp under the passenger seat.

The little red light / knob by the driver's knee is a volume knob
that runs to the Fosgate subwoofer amp.

Next are a few pics of the sub & its amp- check out where I decided to
stash the amp...
[attachmentid=228]

There is a decent place to get nearby power under the left-side floor
panel, near the net bag (red arrow).
[attachmentid=230]
There are two plastic clips in the middle of the tie-down anchor hooks on the panel. These can be popped open with a screwdriver to reveal a 10mm bolt. Take both anchors out, and the floor panel will come out readily. This will reveal your "spare" trailer disconnect socket. It is just tucked into a plastic recess. The brown/thick wire is a dedicated 20 amp, unused wire. This seems to be plenty for a modest amp.
[attachmentid=229]
If you want to shatter glass, you will probably want to run a 10ga wire from the battery like many people do. Mine sounds fine, so I probably won't bother unless I have absolutely nothing better to do-

Next will be the install of the new door speakers & tweeters.
The stock ones actually don't sound too bad when backed up by the sub,
but I already have bought the new ones- so out they go.

If I discover anything worth mentioning while doing that, I'll post it here.

Oh, I almost forgot- it sounds mm mm good so far.
The extra beef of the two amps lets the sound really breathe.
I am in NE, and it is cold like a mofo right now- about 20 degrees with snow on the ground. Total crap weather for stereo installs! Hurry up Spring!

Later, Mikkojay
 

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Any advice on getting at the exsisting subwoofer? I'd like to use the stock stereo just upgrade the sub in the rear and if possible add an amp to power it. What was the verdict on tapping into the sub outputs on the stock unit?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Do you have an LS (6 speaker, no amp), or XLS/LTD (7 speaker, with amp)?
I have an LS, and I do not know if there are any wires running to that area. Even if there were, I probably wouldn't use them anyway. If you get the trim panel off to mount a new driver, you could just run new wires to your new amp location. I'll try to upload the manual's trim panel diagram for that panel just in case it can help. If I were going to run a sub off of the stock stereo (LS), I would tap into the right and left rear speaker-level outputs behind the head unit. I would then run them to a pair of line-level converters that would convert the signal to a line-level rca output. I'd then run rca cables to an amp that has a built in low-level crossover. I'd bridge the amp and run an 8" single voice coil sub in the stock location. If I had the stock sub already, I'd only need one line-level converter or an amp that allows for speaker-level inputs (also applies to above scenario). It kind of depends on what you are starting with.

[attachmentid=272]

Later, Mike
 

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yeah i've got the 7 speaker system with the sub. there's a nice square opening where the stock sub now resides so i'm thining an amp with a kicker 8" solobaric L7 would do nicely. I'll have to check out the amp situation and find one that runs off the speaker wire or get a converter. Thanks for the help.
 

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OK, due to my Day job, i have access to some folk at the Mfg Plant. I too have an LS version with a stereo that is just barely enough. I dont need earth shattering volumes or earth ratteling subs....I just need a bit more.

So, after much talk with many different folk here is what i have been advised to do.

Add a more powerful amp to what i already have, and keep the speakers. The speakers for the LS are Panasonic Speakers and are 'Tuned" for the truck, so putting different speakers with the existing 'Head' Unit could sound a bit funky.

Here are the speaker specs from an email at Mitsu:


The head unit is made by Mitsubishi Electronic:
35 Watt Peak x 4 Channels (20 Watt x 4) (probably RMS)

I/P speakers (Tweeters) (2 LH, RH):
Ohm = 6
Rated Input Power = 3 Watt
Allowable Input power = 25 Watt

Door Speakers (16CM) (4 - same):
Ohm = 4
Rated Input Power = 15 Watt
Allowable Input power = 30 Watt

The LS has the less expensive (lower specification) speakers which are made by Panasonic. The XLS/ LTD models have the Infinity speakers and amplifier made by HarmanBecker/JBL.

Infinity is a (7) speaker system with a subwoofer. Yours is a (6) speaker system without the subwoofer.

Infinity:
(2) I/P Tweeters = 10 watts (RMS) 20 watts peak
(4) Door Speaker (16cm) = 30 (RMS) 60 watts peak
(1) Subwoofer (20cm) = 20 (RMS) 40 peak (behind rear seat above wheel well on XLS/LTD)


What i need to find out is if the extra wire for the sub, is actually there in the LS models. See if the dealer that mentioned that (See above posts) is feeding us good info. I wonder if there is a frame for the sub just waiting for a speaker?

Looks like i will be assulting my Endeavor this weekend with Screwdrivers and crow bars!!!!

My source said adding a medium size amp and a sub may be all i need to kick it up a notch.

Hope this additional info helps. Lets keep this thread going with info and pix....and thanks to all for sharing!!!!

D
 

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Well I am glad we are talking about this topic. I bought a Rockford Fosgate P28S4
stage 2 with 200watts rms

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-fgLYyI0NnBe/c...7500&I=575P28S4

And I am gonna buy the amp on the 28th, Rockford Fosgate Model:RF2002/P2002!

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id...=product&cmp=++

Best Buy is installing everything for me; I am still using Stock Radio and all. They will be using dyno mat or what ever its called and everything. This is my first real nice vehicle and I want it done professional. I am just looking for nice additive bass, but the guy did say by me buying that amp it leaves room for future upgrade!

O, one more thing where should they put the amp!? I want it hidden, not just laying in the back or stuck on the wall, any suggestions?
 

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Mikkojay,

Travelling back and forth between IA and Toronto... I agree! These mods *should* be done in warmer weather.

Nonetheless, I have my new Rockford Fosgate car mp3 system (802.11b option sucks the songs off my home PC when I park in my garage... It's sweet) and I want to get it working *soon*.

I went with a Pyle FM modulator (yes, I know the downsides, but... I will slice and splice <hardwire> later once I find an amp solution to tap into the factory speakers/setup).

Question for you: Can you give me the model # of the Metra Pocket Adapter that you used? I want to use the same one that you already praised.

Thanks!

DDalby
 

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Hey, what do you know- its on sale even!
http://www.autotoys.com/x/cust/product.php...64&cat=0&page=1

Update on mine- I think I finally have it about where I want it.
In another thread, I installed Infinity Perfect 6.1 speakers. They sound pretty good, but don't believe all the hype in the audio magazines. The highs are a bit harsh, but after trying the -3 crossover point, they toned down within reason. I put a pair of Infinity coax in the rear doors. That was a dramatic improvement. My pawnshop Alpine V12 amp was not cutting it, so I bought an MTX 400 watt 4 channel amp. I know the watt thing is all relative, but in a few words it eats the Alpine amp for breakfast! It also really brought the 6.1's to life. After it is all said and done, I really must say that the stock speakers are really not too bad. Replacing them is a real pain!!! If you have the lower-end LS type system like I had, and want to blast the volume, you might blow the originals- so you might be better off replacing them. I might suggest this to people on the fence- just leave the stock ones in and power them with good, clean power. If you fry one, oh well, replace them. I didn't want to mess around with trying to stuff an 8" sub in the stock location, so I bought a single 12 in a cube enclosure that leaves room for groceries. If I need to take it out, it takes about 5 seconds using the spring loaded disconnects. Its loud as you could want, but it also sounds awesome at low levels. That's the nice thing about having amps with plenty of power- even when the volume is low, you still get a big sound that consumes you.
CD's in the visor:
Beck, Herbie Hancock, Burning Spear, Wattstax, Jamiroquai & Stevie Ray
Later, Mikkojay
 

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Hey Mikkojay,
Your after market headunit install looks great.
I went to Circuit City and another local car radio installation place today, both said they could install a unit in the spot that you did, but it would cost me hundreds of dollars for the install alone because they consider it a custom job. The guys at Circuit City told me that there is no Metra wiring harness or install kits available yet and they would have to make custom parts for it to fit which could easily cost three hundred dollars and take 6 hours. How'd you install it? I would like a aftermarket headunit so I can connect my XM radio directly thru an aux input instead of using the FM modulator which sounds horrible even on my Endeavor Infinity system with subwoofer. The installers even recommended that I stick with what I have and wait for some aftermarket installation parts to come up.
 

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Originally posted by mratch@Jan 3 2005, 03:05 PM
This is perfect, thanks mikkojay!  Please keep us updated with how you make out.  You're doing everything i hope to do in the future.  I plan to tap into the existing wire leads so i can run some RCA's to some amps without changing the stock head unit.  My plan is to add an amp to power the existing speakers and i'd like to add an 8inch sub.  I have an LS model which doesn't come with the 8inch sub, but the XLS model has one doesn't it?  i'd like to find out where they put the sub in the XLS model so hopefully i can use the same location?

we'll see how it sounds with the stock speakers and an 8inch sub but with better power going to them.  i may have to replace the rest of the speaks too.

let us know how it sounds!!!
[snapback]4457[/snapback]​
Did you ever figure out how to get the ols stereo to light up at night?
 

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Hello everyone, can anyone tell me where the stock external amplifier for a 2004 Endeavor XLS is located? thanks I searched all over this forum but can't seem to find the answer
 

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so by adding this new headunit, how does that affect your little display on the top of the dash? how easy was it to install the aftermarket radio??? do you think i could fit a pop put DVD player in there? i have an 04 endeavor..... :liebe011:
 
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