[The Holden Guy]

I have hijacked a thread, but it's easy to explain it from the start.

My TL Magna wagon has done 230,000 kays and until recently it has been trouble free.

On occasions when at running temperature I get a 'stutter' or a 'skip' during take off,
-Never above 1,200rpm, put the foot down further and the problem disappears.
-There is no shortage of power; squealing tyres isn't problem.
-Accelerates smoothly without any jerking
-Fuel isn't too bad average 11 litres/100kms around town including stop start driving
-Never stutters when gently taking off stone cold

While I hijacked a previous thread; the air flow meter and the coil could be the problem. I've ruled out the air flow meter as I've test two used air flow meters and a according to Murphy's Law problem still existed.

I'm not 100% convinced it's the coil; I've found personal experience coil either work or they don't. Plus I drive under load up steep driveways and uphills at 80km/h to 100km/h in overdrive would never fault. I'm open for discussing regarding symptoms of coil failures in these cars.

What else could be causing this problem?

 

[Leadfoot6]

Have you tried driving it gently with the Air Flow Sensor(AFS) connector cable unplugged?

The car will then be in "limp mode", and apparently will eliminate the AFS from the equation.

A local mechanic diagnosed my slowly failing AFS this way.

If the symptom persists, that should eliminate the AFS as a probable suspect.

If the symptom persists, then it might be worthwhile looking closer at the AFS.

It is easy to do, and worth a try.

 

[The Holden Guy]

I unplugged the AFS and the problem didn't show up after a 10 minute drive, I didn't want to drive to far as the auto trans shifts are rather abrupt.

I tried two other AFS I have as spares and all show the same problem, possibly may have three faulty sensors?

However, upon generally inspection I did find an the Earth Cable on the throttle cable bracket wasn't tight, while tightening the bolt I snapped in the manifold. I put the earth on another bolt, until I get around the pulling out snapped bolt.

I understand a poor earth can cause strange problems, but I'll see if this was the problem.

 

[Leadfoot6]

Good feedback.

Please advise any further steps.

P.S. Drive gently.

The mechanic advised me to whilst the AFS cable was unplugged.

I was able to drive gently quite well for the three days I waited for the replacement new AFS to arrive.

Once I fitted the new sensor, about 6 years ago, all driveability is perfect.

No stalling, no hesitation.

Remove neg. battery cable to clear "check engine" light that will appear once driven with AFS cable unplugged.

 

[Leadfoot6]

At $47 including postage,it might be worthwhile taking a "punt" on a brand new item, which in this case displays the "338" number that is normally seen on the correctly calibrated genuine units.

I can't vouch for the accuracy of the calibration of this item, only point out that it has the correct "338" marking applied to it.

It might just be a clever forgery, but I have no way of knowing.

I you do try it, please give feedback on the forum as to the result.

AU MAF MASS AIR METER FLOW SENSOR FOR MITSUBISHI TRITON PAJERO MAGNA TJ VERADA | eBay

 

[RomanG]

At $47 including postage,it might be worthwhile taking a "punt" on a brand new item, which in this case displays the "338" number that is normally seen on the correctly calibrated genuine units.

I can't vouch for the accuracy of the calibration of this item, only point out that it has the correct "338" marking applied to it.

It might just be a clever forgery, but I have no way of knowing.

I you do try it, please give feedback on the forum as to the result.

AU MAF MASS AIR METER FLOW SENSOR FOR MITSUBISHI TRITON PAJERO MAGNA TJ VERADA | eBay

I am also interested in the result. Because I also do not know what is better. Or buy a new one and not think about it anymore

 

[The Holden Guy]

I am also interested in the result. Because I also do not know what is better. Or buy a new one and not think about it anymore

I've found it's a lottery; majority of the time new sensors work and sometimes they don't. For example I once had a problem with oxygen sensors on my LS1 ute and I bought a pair of so-called 'Bosch' sensors from ebay and barely last a few months. Genuine GM sensors fixed the problem, but they weren't cheap.

If I have any more problems I may considering taking a 'punt' and buying a new one. The unit in the above ebay link has a 30 day return policy too; good to know if the new unit is faulty.

 

[Leadfoot6]

Speaking of Oxygen Sensors the following NTK sensor:

NTK NGK OXYGEN SENSOR MITSUBISHI Magna TL TW 3.5L 6G74 V6 Cyl SOHC 06/03 - 2004 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NTK NGK OXYGEN SENSOR MITSUBISHI Magna TL TW 3.5L 6G74 V6 Cyl SOHC 06/03 - 2004 at the best online prices at eBay!

www.ebay.com.au

is the exact type with the correct genuine 4 pin connector.

NTK
Manufacturer Part Number:
OZA548-M5


"Plug & Play", no headaches.

It is even the same supplier that I purchased from about 5 years ago.

It has been perfect, and I was very happy with the supplier.

It is also at the right price.

 

[The Holden Guy]

While on the topic of Oxygen sensors, I unplugged it and went for a drive and no stuttering at all. Plug it back in and problem is back straight away.

According to the factory workshop manual the heating circuit on the sensor should have 7-40 ohms -mine has infinite ohms meaning an open circuit. BTW... I believe there is no check engine light for a malfunctioning oxygen sensor?

 

[Leadfoot6]

AFAIK, from discussion @AMC there is no CEL displayed for a faulty o2 sensor on a Magna.

 

[Leadfoot6]

How is your fuel consumption?

Try to start recording measurements now, and then some after sensor replacement.

 

[The Holden Guy]

Averages 11 litres/100 kays around town, on the highway around 9 litres. Stop starting has been up to 14 litres/100 kays.

 

[Leadfoot6]

Please update these readings after o2 replacement.