Hi I have just joined today and have a 2013 plate having done 94000 miles with a full service history. I thought my timing belt was on its way out but the engine specialist garage I have put the car in says that our local Mitsubishi dealer tells him it will be the balance shaft that has gone and is a common fault .they can supply a modified repair kit at an exstorsionists cost of £2500 plus vat. Having looked on the internet it appears that cars all over the world have been suffering this problem with the 4n14 engine and I agree its a dangerous fault which appears to me should be a recall due to it being a design fault otherwise why supply a modified kit .Cars of all ages up to and including 18 plates are affected. I am thinking about contacting the BBC Watch Dog program to see if they can help highlight the problem and put some pressure on Mitsubishi to get this sorted, so if any other owners want to do the same lets see if we can get this problem rectified at Mitsubishi,s exspense.

 

 

l had not finished replying when page crashed so my previous post continues below.
Safety recall can be checked at I www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-recall.. There is not one for this serious 4n14 engine fault and I wonder if there is a method of informing DVSA of safety issues that the Mitsubishi are not notifying them of. It is probable we do need somone like Watchdog to assist.

 

I've just joined today as the balance shaft has gone on my 2015 2.2 outlander. 90k miles on the clock. Quoted £3,300 for replacement kit and repair and Mitsubishi won't contribute anything as out of warranty and not dealer maintained grrrr. Is there any case to go to watch dog on this and if so what do I need to do. Tia.

 

Hi, I have also just signed up for the same reason! I bought my 63 Outlander (61k) from a dealer and have maintained it's dealer only service record. The issue with the balance shaft was picked up during a free health check. I am a little disappointed that the car I bought for it's rugged reliability could leave my facing a bill worth several thousand pounds. What is worse is that this appears to be a reoccurring fault that could have impacted on my family and my personal safety.

The chap at the local dealership was a good enough guy with his advice and took a photocopy of my service record and was is contacting Mitsubishi on my behalf to see if they are willing to contribute towards the repairs. Depending on how Mitsubishi respond will determine whether I buy Mitsubishi again...

How has everyone gone about dealing with this situation? Has anyone else had help from Mitsubishi? Does anyone have any advice for me... Please!!!

Rich

 

I have a 2013 plate outlander with the balance shaft issue. Bought it second hand and the problem started within two weeks. Mitsubishi Australia will also not assist with anything. For such a known problem worldwide, it’s very disappointing that Mitsubishi aren’t even at least contributing to this inferior costly part and repair. Can’t even drive my car because now I have to save a crapload of money to fix it.

 

Did you buy from a dealer? How many Kms? Does it have Full service history?

 

Sadly, I bought privately. It has 143K on it and all services were done at a Mitsubishi dealer apart from the last 3. Been back and forth emailing MMA but they just keep making other excuses to get out of it. Just have to bite the bullet and get it fixed. Any idea on what it costs?

 

if it had Full dealer history it would have been more likely.

I have heard of people removing the drive coupler, this is the item that wears causing the noise.This means the balance shaft will not turn anymore and engine might feel rougher. i have never seen this done though.

Cost wise? I have heard around $4000 to replace.. but cannot confirm this is correct. it is about 8 hours labour to do.

parts needed are

Balance shaft assembly and 4 bolts
Drive coupler
crankshaft drive gear
drive adapter and bolts
timing cover
thrust washer
2x oil seal rings
threebond sealer for sump and timing cover
engine oil
sump washer
Rocker cover gasket
4 injector seals
4 return seals
8 injector bolt washers

 

Thank you so much for your expertise with this. F-me!! 4 grand!!. Better save up some more. Lol. Cheers again for the info. I work at another dealership and they will look after me so hopefully won’t be quite that much. Wishing now I had spent the extra and bought from a dealer because it would still be under the stat warranty. Oh well. Ya live and learn.

 

Mitsubishi Australia did not assist me at all. Even with a full service history. Pretty disgusting that this has never been a recalled part because if it fully went while doing 110kph on the highway, it could be very dangerous. Anyway. Mine is sorted now but it set me back $3300. And I was lucky enough to get the parts at cost price through work. I’d imagine retail repair cost being upward of $4000. I actually have a little video of what causes the problem. Will see if I can upload it. Good luck everyone. Mitsubishi...... you should be very ashamed of this. Most people don’t have this sort of money just laying around to fix something that is obviously an inferior part and a danger to those who trusted in your brand.

 

Thanks for the reply although I was really hoping for some positive news! Definitely makes me consider selling this car back to mitsubishi and buying something else... at least the problem will then be their issue to deal with. Will wait and see what Mitsubishi say first.

 

Im happy to buy your faulty 4N14 (Outlander 2.2 DiD) FAULTY/BROKEN balance shaft if you have one.
I can pay £40 + postage for it but I need pics first to confirm. I don't need the whole assembly. Faulty shaft only.
If you are happy to sell it please PM me.

 

Im happy to buy your faulty 4N14 (Outlander 2.2 DiD) FAULTY/BROKEN balance shaft if you have one.
I can pay £40 + postage for it but I need pics first to confirm. I don't need the whole assembly. Faulty shaft only.
If you are happy to sell it please PM me.

07983702003 call me

 

I've just been told by Mitsubishi that my car (Outlander 2.2 diesel 2014) has this issue.. £3300 to fix but then said £2200 as I've taken it there since new etc. I'm not sure about getting it fixed as it's always sounded agricultural and the service department didn't think it would be a major problem just that it would become more noisy as it wears but this forum makes it sound more dangerous..so not sure what to believe.

I'm guessing you have to get it fixed at a main dealer if you need the new parts that fix it permanently rather than a Mitsubishi specialist?

I like the car and have had it from new but does anyone have an opinion if this could be the start of more problems if it's not reliable?

 

Hi,
I had the same problem on my car and at around 50,000 miles I removed the sump to check. The drive coupling was worn as expected. My engine had been making a loud ticking noise that was very loud at tick over speed and reduced as the engine speeded up. If the noise was the only Issue I would have left it. However as I have researched this problem elswhere on Youtube and Facebook 4N14problems, it was obvious the problem was much more serious than just a loud ticking noise. The same forces that cause the wear on the coupling also act on the teeth of the drive gear and its always the same teeth. There are many examples of the teeth breaking. It is iresponsible of Mitsubishi not to accept this is part of the same problem. and tell you its not serious. I suggest you collect further evidence of broken gears and tell them about it. So your problem is then to have a very expensive repair due to their design fault. In my case I decided on an alternative solution at my own risk that Mitsubishi are unlikely to accept or carry out for you.
As many other have done I decided to remove the coupling. This part is a cube with a tonge on one face and a slot on the opposite face. To do this you need to remove the oil pick up (2 bolts), remove the balance shaft module (4 bolts). As the module is removed the coupling is released for removal. I also removed the bearing housing for the drive shaft at the input end(2 bolts) This allows the shaft and gear to be removed for inspection. In my case, as milage is relatively low, the teeth were unbroken and so I replace the gear and balance shaft module but WITHOUT the coupling. As the gear no longer drives the module and therefore has extreemly low tooth forces I expect the geat to last without damage. Changing the coupling alone is not a good solution, the mating parts are also worn. This is why the repair is so expensive. Mitsubishi are supposed to have redesigned the parts for later engines. Mine is 2012 In the UK. I understand the same problem is present on much later models so I am not sure Mitsubishi have cured the fault. My engine is now running well with no loud ticking noise and only a very slight increase in engine vibration and no risk of the gear breaking. I suggest you do as much research as possible and present your findings to Mitsubishi. From what I found many engines with balance shafts in different makes of cars also have similar problems. Please post what happens to your car.

 

The new parts will fix the problem, but you will need all of them.

i have heard of people just removing the coupler, and leaving all the other parts in place, to preserve oil pressure, but have not driven one ( not that i noticed )

 

Thanks for your help, I'm glad the new parts will fix the problem.

Yesterday I spoke to a manager of a garage (not dealer specific) and he thinks the noise and vibrations should slowly get worse so I'm thinking get it done in 6 months unless I'd be damaging other parts of the engine.

Are these DN14 engines unreliable? I am still hoping to keep the car and run it into the ground tbh as I like it.

 

I am about to have the same problem.
Does anyone have a picture of the coupler?
Is it essentially a square block with grooves in it? Sorry not overly technical.
Has anyone had the timing chain replaced as well? Mine has now done about 170,000km
Been happy with it, but starting to have a few issues, but if it's a simple fix, more than happy to keep this one going for a while longer

 

These are all the parts needed for repair. The coupler is at the bottom on the right of the gear

 

Thanks mate. It was the piece I suspected.

 

If anybody has the shaft with the broken teeth let me know. I know it's not much of an offer (considering the total cost of replacement) but I would give £50 + postage for a faulty shaft.

 

Someone just posted this link in 4N14 facebook group: https://shop.zedperformance.co.uk/outlander-2.2-did-4n14-balance-shaft-timing-chain-kit

Apparently they sell balance shaft and its coupling.

 

There are 3 pieces that wear out. They only offer 2 for replacement. The other is the driver shaft for the coupler. Using their parts would only be a temporary fix, as the driver shaft will still be worn. the noise may not even go if the driver shaft is in that bad a condition. And if the wear on the coupler is that bad as in their picture, then i guarantee the wear on balance shaft and driver shaft will be considerable.

 

Im in 2 facebook groups. People complain about the coupling and the balance shaft only. Noone has ever mentioned wear on driver shaft. Have you got a link or pic of it? I looked up on Ebay and some sellers sell only the genuine coupling. The balancing coupling is made some softer material. People seem to buy the genuine Mitsubishi coupling on Ebay (for £98ish). I assume that it gives them only a temporary fix. I think the drive shafts aren't as soft as the coupling.

 

Look at my pictures in previous post. On the cloth is the balance shaft assembly on the left, and on the right is the driver assembly. Both have the same style dog drive, to the coupler, and both wear out the same

 

Has anyone actually done a step by step guide to removal of the coupling? I have read all the above but some bits seem to contradict each other a bit (as well as other internet searches) Or a simple idiot guide (ideally with pics) as to what to remove to remove the 'ticking' noise I have from around the crank pulley that I guess is the balance shafts. That wont cause any low oil pressure. If indeed simply disconnecting it will not affect oil pressure.
Chris

 

Hi there everyone,
I joined long time ago but this forum didn't let me login , anyway.I got a Outlander 2268cc DI-D , GX4 AWD , UK model, 177HP, 4N14 engine fully made in Japan ( massive difference from one I owned previously with 22 manufacture faults). I bought the car from new ( and the previous one ). I changed, still do today, oil and filters every 7000 miles no matter what, oil only MOTUL or LIQUI MOLY 5W-30 .
So, I used to get same problem couple of teeth went broken ( luckily the sump pipe has a mesh so I found them in there) .You will recognise the wrong sound because it is aggravating in the higher gears not as much as idle. We quite lucky as well because the balancer is not connected to gearbox or 4x4 shift button so can rest and stop fronting the oil for nothing. I didn't notice any vibrations since removal so the car is driving fine . I wrote on the YOUTUBE a response for one of the videos uploaded by some good guys . I propose to get in a bigger group with same issue to complain to Trading Standards and DVAS otherwise MITSUBISHI it won't give a flying fig. They are only replacing parts . I got so many small issues recently then I realise by replacing the parts on your car by dealer suggestions you will produce actual a new one ...hilarious but not...also remember they were bought by RENAULT so we are doomed.
So here is my experience with dealers:
Car broke down in Austria ,EGR stop working , imbeciles of Mitsubishi Alpendorf replaced my manifold pipe for £1000 instead of EGR then I broke down again at Eurotunnel ( I payed by credit card so I'm waiting for my money back). I manage to replace the motor of EGR with one from EBAY L200 £50 because all above 2 liter engines have same EGR motor.
My local dealer Cwmbran, Wales , ask first to replace DPF (3000 pounds), I said no so I sent mine to be clean ,it was 40% clogged now pristine clean only for 90 pounds. Then they said lets replace the all sensors £350 so I said no again because I will not make the car new on my expense so I fixed myself the EGR for £150.
My silencer or muffler get rusted and need replacement dealer £450 , the one I purchase made from stainless steel by custom guys , cut pipe after DPF and all together cost me only £260 . No brainer guys , shop around , choose a good trusted private mechanic and save money .
Also I will share all my experiences with my Outlander because we are stronger together !

 

Hi, I am also a U.K. member of a facebook group called Mitsubishi 4n14 problems. The balance shaft drive coupling failure is an extreemly common problem with this engine world wide. It is probable that ALL unmodified engines (Diesel 2.268cc MIVEC 130KW) of this type are effected to some extent but not all owners realise. Some who have contacted Mitsubishi dealers report that Mitsubishi claim they are not aware of any such fault. However it appears that the original replacement parts that were available do NOT cure the problem and the fault reoccurs and so now the original parts are now longer available. A new design of parts is now being supplied at great expense. The most obvious symptom is a loud ticking noise from the sump area at idle. This general dies down when the engine accelerates. The ticking is sever wear of the drive coupling of the balance shaft module and mating components. If no action is taken the gear driving the shaft may also suffer tooth failure which will cause sever immediate engine failure. I consider this is potentialy a dangerous fault. Many people have removed the sump to gain acces and then removed the drive shaft coupling to the balance module. The balance module is left in place but no longer rotates. If not already damaged the drive gear and shaft can be left in place. It is reported there are no sever engine vibrations as a result of removing the balance shaft. I have not yet removed my coupling and consider this is a Mitsubishi engine design fault and should be a recall due to the risk of dangerous engine failure. I would be interested to hear about others with this engine fault

I own a 2014 mitsubishi outlander 3 2268 diesel with 90,000 miles, balance shaft went from making a noise to catastrophic failure almost immediately whilst on a motorway. Firstly a rattle followed by loud grinding noise and dashboard lighting up like a Christmas tree. It has been main dealer serviced since purchase. Not happy quote of £3500 to fix incl parts and labour. Happy to pursue Mitsubishi for a blatantly dangerous design flaw.

 

I own 8yo Outlander 2013 diesel 120.000km in Norway. I have always serviced the car according to producer's recommendations. Just a few days ago independent mechanic identified the balance shaft problem. Contacted two Mitsubishi dealers. Both are asking for equivalent of ca 5000 Euro to replace the shaft with a new one. Not offering any responsibility or financial help. This is a very popular car in Norway. Since I started searching I found many posts in the Norwegian Mitsubishi club FB page related to this problem. It is a disgrace that Mitsubishi is not taking any responsibility or informing customers of the possible problem. I could have at least insured better.
I am thinking about finding a mechanic who could remove this part from me. I am a DIY guy but not when it comes to cars. Consequences can be quite bad.
Will post again when I have more info.

 

Same here. Bought the car 2 years ago used, it is now with 120.000km and it's from 2013 , 2.2did and went to the mechanic that thought it was the dual mass flywheel and clutch and so I bought it. It cost me 700€ the part and 250€ to install. Then, the problem: it was the balance shaft that broke. Mitsubishi doesn't have a recall and gave me 2600€ just for the part.

Waiting on Mitsubishi's answer although after what I read here I'm very sad and sorry I've bought this car.

Don't know what to do. I was told the the removal might not be safe for the engine.

Can anyone tell me what happened to the engines without balance shaft, those who removed it?

Cheers,
Paulo

 

We could make a lawsuit to Mitsubishi if we could gather all of us.

Is this totally stupid?!

 

Important update on my case with balance shaft issue. Through Outlander owner who experienced the same problem I managed to track down Mitsubishi dealer in Norway. This dealer is admitting the balance shaft is badly designed and the best fix is to remove it. They have already done it for a number of customers. My car is scheduled for this procedure next week. I am told it will take 2 hours and will cost about 500€.
The Outlander owner who informed me about this dealer has been driving fail free for 6 months now with the shaft removed.
For me this is a breakthrough. Before taking to this dealer I spoke to two others in my area. Both of them claimed this is a procedure which can cause big damage. They didn’t want to take any responsibility.
If not arranging for a recall of this engine at least Mitsubishi should accept the fix of removing the shaft as a safe one and instruct its dealerships to perform it.

 

Important update on my case with balance shaft issue. Through Outlander owner who experienced the same problem I managed to track down Mitsubishi dealer in Norway. This dealer is admitting the balance shaft is badly designed and the best fix is to remove it. They have already done it for a number of customers. My car is scheduled for this procedure next week. I am told it will take 2 hours and will cost about 500€.
The Outlander owner who informed me about this dealer has been driving fail free for 6 months now with the shaft removed.
For me this is a breakthrough. Before taking to this dealer I spoke to two others in my area. Both of them claimed this is a procedure which can cause big damage. They didn’t want to take any responsibility.
If not arranging for a recall of this engine at least Mitsubishi should accept the fix of removing the shaft as a safe one and instruct its dealerships to perform it.
[/SITAT]

Hey Marcomint!
I read your post, and I wonder which Mitsubishi dealer you have been in contact with. I live outside Oslo, and have a short way to Ski and Oslo. I have contacted both departments, and been given a price of approx. NOK 9,500 (about 956 Euro). This is robbery in broad daylight. In labor costs, this is very expensive. Parts consumed are new oil, oil filter and sealant. I can do this job myself, but I do not have access to a car lift.

Do you have the opportunity to state which Mitsubishi workshop fixed your car? Du må gjerne kontakte meg på fjesboka. Søk bare på navnet mitt.

Thank you in advance!
Regards Paal Falang

 

Hi all,
I have signed up to simply add to the discussion re balancer unit faults. I bought a 2013 Outlander in early 2021 with 65k miles on it only to discover shortly afterwards the rattle you often get with cold diesels was clearly something other than normal. It got progressively worse and was diagnosed by a local dealer as being a timing chain issue but I wasn't convinced. A little bit of research and I strongly suspected the balancer unit or coupling was the source of the noise. I spoke with a Mitsubishi dealer who were very vague and suggested a repair was likely to be approx £4500 with the VAT. Anyway, that led me to more research and this forum site and in particular the comments from SAMESGonzo. Fortunately I have some mechanical experience but still had reservations about taking it to pieces with the intention of disabling the balancer until by removing the coupling cube if found to be faulty which in deed it was. Separately, I bought a small modification kit from Ebay for £60 Mitsubishi Outlander 4N14 Balance Shaft Removal Upgrade Kit 2.2 Diesel 2012-2019 | eBay which included a brass bush that I used in place of the drive gear to block off an oil way. Also and most usefully to me were the instructions included in the kit. My drive gear, the coupling and the adjacent components all had significant wear and so I left the gear and the coupling out. It all turned out to be rather simple in the end and that's the reason for joining this forum, to be able to tell you that, a thousand miles later, it is simply as sweet as a nut right across the rev range.
All in it took about 6 hours (and that's including having to reseal the sump because I didn't successfully do it the first time) it cost approx. £120 and that was for the kit, oil, oil filter, RTV sealant for the sump and a sump splitting tool. Good luck and thanks for the information and guidance.