[GLBEARINGS]

🌟Balance shaft removal kits available for sale🌟

I have now sorted out postage worldwide, the EBay listing under this item number will allow worldwide postage when selected

353867794201

Grab your kit if you were outside of the normal postage zones as it is now available to you wherever you are

Hi, I am also a U.K. member of a facebook group called Mitsubishi 4n14 problems. The balance shaft drive coupling failure is an extreemly common problem with this engine world wide. It is probable that ALL unmodified engines (Diesel 2.268cc MIVEC 130KW) of this type are effected to some extent but not all owners realise. Some who have contacted Mitsubishi dealers report that Mitsubishi claim they are not aware of any such fault. However it appears that the original replacement parts that were available do NOT cure the problem and the fault reoccurs and so now the original parts are now longer available. A new design of parts is now being supplied at great expense. The most obvious symptom is a loud ticking noise from the sump area at idle. This general dies down when the engine accelerates. The ticking is sever wear of the drive coupling of the balance shaft module and mating components. If no action is taken the gear driving the shaft may also suffer tooth failure which will cause sever immediate engine failure. I consider this is potentialy a dangerous fault. Many people have removed the sump to gain acces and then removed the drive shaft coupling to the balance module. The balance module is left in place but no longer rotates. If not already damaged the drive gear and shaft can be left in place. It is reported there are no sever engine vibrations as a result of removing the balance shaft. I have not yet removed my coupling and consider this is a Mitsubishi engine design fault and should be a recall due to the risk of dangerous engine failure. I would be interested to hear about others with this engine fault

 

[ryanvercoe]

4n14, thanks for posting. Donsybid man what a drag🥵. I guess the 86 Rolla with low mileage sounds good now. Hey, my car is **** too. 4g64, some say Evo engines can get 600 hp. All I want is no rattle and smoke. Nevermind, I know what not to buy 🤭😀. See you at the finish mate🏁.

 

[Buchie]

Important update on my case with balance shaft issue. Through Outlander owner who experienced the same problem I managed to track down Mitsubishi dealer in Norway. This dealer is admitting the balance shaft is badly designed and the best fix is to remove it. They have already done it for a number of customers. My car is scheduled for this procedure next week. I am told it will take 2 hours and will cost about 500€.
The Outlander owner who informed me about this dealer has been driving fail free for 6 months now with the shaft removed.
For me this is a breakthrough. Before taking to this dealer I spoke to two others in my area. Both of them claimed this is a procedure which can cause big damage. They didn’t want to take any responsibility.
If not arranging for a recall of this engine at least Mitsubishi should accept the fix of removing the shaft as a safe one and instruct its dealerships to perform it.

Hi. i have just got the quote from the mitsubishi dealer in aalesund regarding this issue. can you you share the mitsubishi dealer that can remove this?

 

[danbby]

These are all the parts needed for repair. The coupler is at the bottom on the right of the gear

Hi!
Where I can find this repair kit? Thanks!

 

[Mielina]

Hello, I'm from Spain. Does anyone know if repairing with Mitsubishi (even if it is expensive) the problem disappears forever? Or he will go out again over time. That is, the repair kit has the manufacturing fault corrected or because it is poorly designed everything will break again? Sorry for my English, I'm using a translator, if you don't understand me well, I'll try again.

 

[DevelopedBug]

Hi everyone, new member here. I bought a 140k mile 2013 2.2 Di-D 4N14 GX-5 Outlander off Copart a few weeks ago. One of the keys had a tag with an ominous "DO NOT START" written on it. Thanks Copart.... I took it for a brief drive around my housing estate and as soon as the oil began to warm up the low oil pressure light came on and I babied it the few hundred metres home. So it's got oil supply issues.

I had already ordered the Zedperformance shaft and coupler to replace the soft Mitsubishi one, so today I removed the sump expecting to find either a sludge filled pick-up or worst case a damaged pump. However, prior to reaching the pump it was apparent that dynamic balancer's coupler shaft has failed big time - it looks like perhaps the missing teeth have jammed the drive gear and the resultant shock has caused the crack to the ali castings. Such a terrible design.

I ran out of time and haven't yet manage to get the timing chain cover off (any tips for removing the crank pully bolt?). How likely is this to have also physically damaged the oil pump? Is the loss of oil pressure likely due to the housing in the first photo being snapped in half (it does seem to have what is usually a fairly restrictive oil feed incorporated into it so I the fact this is now cracked open that it is dumping pressurised oil straight back into the sump rather than around the engine).

The bottom photos shows some bits of metal fished out of the sump - any clues as to their identity?

Thanks!

 

[dobbswright]

I've just been reading through this thread as I've not been here for a while but WOW!
Now I know what to do to my car as it's been noisy since we bought it and 5 years later still rattling! I went to a main dealer for a normal annual service and when I asked about the noise they basically lied to me and said it's normal! This was a 4 year old car with 55k on the clock! My 25 year old Toyota Surf sounds much quieter than this !
Fxxxing Mitsubishi should never have been able to get away with this!
Maybe it's just as well they're now out of business in Europe. I won't but another that's for sure.
Anyway back to the rattling, what's considered the best way to deal with this fault? Just remove the cube / coupler and put the sump back on or take the whole mess out and block the oil ways?
Do the oil way plugs screw in or are they fixed with the sealer in the kits? I'm not keen on just an interference push fit with some Loctite to hold the plugs in.
What are your thoughts?
Rob

 

[DevelopedBug]

Anyway back to the rattling, what's considered the best way to deal with this fault? Just remove the cube / coupler and put the sump back on or take the whole mess out and block the oil ways?
Do the oil way plugs screw in or are they fixed with the sealer in the kits? I'm not keen on just an interference push fit with some Loctite to hold the plugs in.
What are your thoughts?
Rob

Hi Rob.

I refitted the balancer to occupy the volume within the sump and hence not require more oil. I then removed everything else up to the gear on the crank as it was all so broken there was no reason to refit it. In the photo below I'm pointing at the oil feed for the drive shaft, in the second photo you can see the hole caused by the cracked casing that was allowing oil to escape. With this casting removed from the engine (it bolts into the lower 'ladder brace' part of the engine case with 6 bolts) the oil feed hole is exposed. Fortunately though it is already threaded. So you can Loctite a bolt and insert it into the hole. If you refit the balancer, and block this hole you should be ok to disable the balancer. There might be a slight increase in vibration, but as I bought the car knackered it's impossible for me to know.

 

[dobbswright]

Thanks for that!
That's well smashed
I'm assuming you had to block the oil way as you removed the drive shaft and casing.
So if my gear and casing are ok is it ok to just take out the coupler?

I was going to change the oil anyway as I have an engine management light, ASC / 4x4 service required message on the dash at the moment which has caused the DPF to not regenerate hence filling the sump with diesel.
so I might as well do it all together

Thanks.
Rob

 

[dobbswright]

@DevelopedBug
I have just done my car, I'll do a write up on a separate thread.
Thanks for all the advice

 

[product review]

Hi I have just joined today and have a 2013 plate having done 94000 miles with a full service history. I thought my timing belt was on its way out but the engine specialist garage I have put the car in says that our local Mitsubishi dealer tells him it will be the balance shaft that has gone and is a common fault

 

[João Paz]

Olá a todos, novo membro aqui. Comprei um Outlander 2013 2.2 Di-D 4N14 GX-5 de 140k milhas na Copart algumas semanas atrás. Uma das chaves tinha uma etiqueta com um sinistro "NÃO COMECE" escrito nela. Obrigado Copart .... Eu o levei para um breve passeio pelo meu conjunto habitacional e assim que o óleo começou a esquentar, a luz de baixa pressão do óleo acendeu e eu cuidei dele algumas centenas de metros para casa. Portanto, tem problemas de abastecimento de petróleo.

Eu já havia encomendado o eixo e o acoplador Zedperformance para substituir o Mitsubishi macio, então hoje removi o reservatório esperando encontrar um coletor cheio de lodo ou, na pior das hipóteses, uma bomba danificada. No entanto, antes de chegar à bomba, ficou claro que o eixo do acoplador do balanceador dinâmico falhou muito - parece que talvez os dentes ausentes tenham emperrado a engrenagem de acionamento e o choque resultante tenha causado rachaduras nas peças fundidas. Um design tão terrível.

Fiquei sem tempo e ainda não consegui tirar a tampa da corrente de distribuição (alguma dica para remover o parafuso da polia da manivela?). Qual a probabilidade de isso também ter danificado fisicamente a bomba de óleo? A perda de pressão do óleo é provável devido ao alojamento na primeira foto ter sido partido ao meio (ele parece ter o que geralmente é uma alimentação de óleo bastante restritiva incorporada a ele, então eu o fato de que agora está rachado que está despejando pressurizado óleo direto de volta para o cárter e não ao redor do motor).

As fotos de baixo mostram alguns pedaços de metal retirados do reservatório - alguma pista sobre sua identidade?

Obrigado!
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[/CITAR]
Boa tarde que reparação realizou após esta avaria anulou este módulo e não teve mais problemas?? Estou com o meu problema 😵‍💫

 

[neilgeorge504]

Hello, I'm from Spain. Does anyone know if repairing with Mitsubishi (even if it is expensive) the problem disappears forever? Or he will go out again over time. That is, the repair kit has the manufacturing fault corrected or because it is poorly designed everything will break again? Sorry for my English, I'm using a translator, if you don't understand me well, I'll try again.

Hi .hola. my 2011 2.2 emgine suffered damage as a result of the small balancer wearing and coming out of place.. it cracked the side cover so had to repair the whole lot.. I purchased the updated parts from a dealer in uk who got original parts from mitsubishi in Japan.. there were 3 major parts to replace and cost almost 3000€! I belive mitsubishi should have cobered the parts ir at least give discount because its a common fault and really should require a recall... won't be buying mitsubishi again due to the high cost and no help! I almost replaced the whole engine cheaper but the delivery guy ****ed up the order and dropped a wrong engine so ended up just buying the new updated parts to repair.

 

[4n13]

Hi does anyone know please if the 4n13 engine (1.8 diesel) suffers this same problem? Or is it specific to the 4n14 ?
I am looking at buying a used 4n13 and want to go in eyes open. Thanks.

 

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

The 4N13 does not have a balancer

 

[4n13]

The 4N13 does not have a balancer

Thanks that's good to know. I see a lot of high kilometre (250+km) 4n13 for sale so I assume that these engines are fairly robust. I'm looking at one with 150km for sale, I'm hoping it has a bit of life left in it.

 

[DonnaG90]

I have had the same issue in am in 2016 GX4 75000 miles the fault has been noticed i have had to replace timing chain, but with the cost of the balancing shaft parts and labor and the current vehicle valuation they pretty much cancel each other out. I have notified watch dog and also DVSA for the UK for see if they can sort out a recall for this issue. The fact Mitsubishi UK told me nothing they could do and it was Mitsubishi EU that were the manufacturers of the vehicle they were not willing to take any responsibility or assist with obtaining any further knowledge. It is a massive safety issue especially as the car is a workhorse it certainly should not be malfunctioning at such a low millage.

 

[nic.willcocks]

Similar situation, 2013 Outlander ASX. Split hose led to DPF regen fail and sump filling with diesel. Then engine sounded like someone had dropped a bucket of nails in it. Main "stealership" charged some £200 for an inspection then said needed new engine and turbo some £8,000 cost 6 or so years ago. On leaving one of their mechanics said he would give me £1500 for it on a punt that a mate might want to try to fix it. Took it home left it in a shed until now when doing research and a bit of common sense and lateral thinking, led me to investigate the balance shaft. Some of the teeth on the shaft side of the drive were badly chipped and the coupler had some chatter. Took out balancing unit, removed shaft and receiving gear, blanked out oil port to balance chaft installed busing to gear housing, cleaned it all up, new gasket sealant and wow a new car. Cost to me DIY £40 plus oil and oil filter say £60 in total as opposed to £8k and about 5 hours of work. Now just need to MOT and Tax