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Hi,
I had the same problem on my car and at around 50,000 miles I removed the sump to check. The drive coupling was worn as expected. My engine had been making a loud ticking noise that was very loud at tick over speed and reduced as the engine speeded up. If the noise was the only Issue I would have left it. However as I have researched this problem elswhere on Youtube and Facebook 4N14problems, it was obvious the problem was much more serious than just a loud ticking noise. The same forces that cause the wear on the coupling also act on the teeth of the drive gear and its always the same teeth. There are many examples of the teeth breaking. It is iresponsible of Mitsubishi not to accept this is part of the same problem. and tell you its not serious. I suggest you collect further evidence of broken gears and tell them about it. So your problem is then to have a very expensive repair due to their design fault. In my case I decided on an alternative solution at my own risk that Mitsubishi are unlikely to accept or carry out for you.
As many other have done I decided to remove the coupling. This part is a cube with a tonge on one face and a slot on the opposite face. To do this you need to remove the oil pick up (2 bolts), remove the balance shaft module (4 bolts). As the module is removed the coupling is released for removal. I also removed the bearing housing for the drive shaft at the input end(2 bolts) This allows the shaft and gear to be removed for inspection. In my case, as milage is relatively low, the teeth were unbroken and so I replace the gear and balance shaft module but WITHOUT the coupling. As the gear no longer drives the module and therefore has extreemly low tooth forces I expect the geat to last without damage. Changing the coupling alone is not a good solution, the mating parts are also worn. This is why the repair is so expensive. Mitsubishi are supposed to have redesigned the parts for later engines. Mine is 2012 In the UK. I understand the same problem is present on much later models so I am not sure Mitsubishi have cured the fault. My engine is now running well with no loud ticking noise and only a very slight increase in engine vibration and no risk of the gear breaking. I suggest you do as much research as possible and present your findings to Mitsubishi. From what I found many engines with balance shafts in different makes of cars also have similar problems. Please post what happens to your car.
Hi.
Thanks for the detailed advice, I'll have a listen to see whether I hear a ticking noise at idle. I don't have the ability/confidence to de-couple the balance shaft module but one of my mates may have a go!

Realistically I may sit on it for the time being as I don't really use that car much at the moement and £2200 is still a lot IMHO.

The Mitsubishi quote is only valid for a month but if they don't honour it later in the year I'd probably give the work to a Mitsubishi specialist. I'll check with them to see whether the new parts fix the problem or whether it's like to fail again soon but I guess they're hardly likely to tell me either way.
 

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The new parts will fix the problem, but you will need all of them.

i have heard of people just removing the coupler, and leaving all the other parts in place, to preserve oil pressure, but have not driven one ( not that i noticed )
 

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The new parts will fix the problem, but you will need all of them.

i have heard of people just removing the coupler, and leaving all the other parts in place, to preserve oil pressure, but have not driven one ( not that i noticed )
Thanks for your help, I'm glad the new parts will fix the problem.

Yesterday I spoke to a manager of a garage (not dealer specific) and he thinks the noise and vibrations should slowly get worse so I'm thinking get it done in 6 months unless I'd be damaging other parts of the engine.

Are these DN14 engines unreliable? I am still hoping to keep the car and run it into the ground tbh as I like it.
 

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I am about to have the same problem.
Does anyone have a picture of the coupler?
Is it essentially a square block with grooves in it? Sorry not overly technical.
Has anyone had the timing chain replaced as well? Mine has now done about 170,000km
Been happy with it, but starting to have a few issues, but if it's a simple fix, more than happy to keep this one going for a while longer
 

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If anybody has the shaft with the broken teeth let me know. I know it's not much of an offer (considering the total cost of replacement) but I would give £50 + postage for a faulty shaft.
 

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There are 3 pieces that wear out. They only offer 2 for replacement. The other is the driver shaft for the coupler. Using their parts would only be a temporary fix, as the driver shaft will still be worn. the noise may not even go if the driver shaft is in that bad a condition. And if the wear on the coupler is that bad as in their picture, then i guarantee the wear on balance shaft and driver shaft will be considerable.
 

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Im in 2 facebook groups. People complain about the coupling and the balance shaft only. Noone has ever mentioned wear on driver shaft. Have you got a link or pic of it? I looked up on Ebay and some sellers sell only the genuine coupling. The balancing coupling is made some softer material. People seem to buy the genuine Mitsubishi coupling on Ebay (for £98ish). I assume that it gives them only a temporary fix. I think the drive shafts aren't as soft as the coupling.
 

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Look at my pictures in previous post. On the cloth is the balance shaft assembly on the left, and on the right is the driver assembly. Both have the same style dog drive, to the coupler, and both wear out the same
 

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Has anyone actually done a step by step guide to removal of the coupling? I have read all the above but some bits seem to contradict each other a bit (as well as other internet searches) Or a simple idiot guide (ideally with pics) as to what to remove to remove the 'ticking' noise I have from around the crank pulley that I guess is the balance shafts. That wont cause any low oil pressure. If indeed simply disconnecting it will not affect oil pressure.
Chris
 

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Hi there everyone,
I joined long time ago but this forum didn't let me login , anyway.I got a Outlander 2268cc DI-D , GX4 AWD , UK model, 177HP, 4N14 engine fully made in Japan ( massive difference from one I owned previously with 22 manufacture faults). I bought the car from new ( and the previous one ). I changed, still do today, oil and filters every 7000 miles no matter what, oil only MOTUL or LIQUI MOLY 5W-30 .
So, I used to get same problem couple of teeth went broken ( luckily the sump pipe has a mesh so I found them in there) .You will recognise the wrong sound because it is aggravating in the higher gears not as much as idle. We quite lucky as well because the balancer is not connected to gearbox or 4x4 shift button so can rest and stop fronting the oil for nothing. I didn't notice any vibrations since removal so the car is driving fine . I wrote on the YOUTUBE a response for one of the videos uploaded by some good guys . I propose to get in a bigger group with same issue to complain to Trading Standards and DVAS otherwise MITSUBISHI it won't give a flying fig. They are only replacing parts . I got so many small issues recently then I realise by replacing the parts on your car by dealer suggestions you will produce actual a new one ...hilarious but not...also remember they were bought by RENAULT so we are doomed.
So here is my experience with dealers:
Car broke down in Austria ,EGR stop working , imbeciles of Mitsubishi Alpendorf replaced my manifold pipe for £1000 instead of EGR then I broke down again at Eurotunnel ( I payed by credit card so I'm waiting for my money back). I manage to replace the motor of EGR with one from EBAY L200 £50 because all above 2 liter engines have same EGR motor.
My local dealer Cwmbran, Wales , ask first to replace DPF (3000 pounds), I said no so I sent mine to be clean ,it was 40% clogged now pristine clean only for 90 pounds. Then they said lets replace the all sensors £350 so I said no again because I will not make the car new on my expense so I fixed myself the EGR for £150.
My silencer or muffler get rusted and need replacement dealer £450 , the one I purchase made from stainless steel by custom guys , cut pipe after DPF and all together cost me only £260 . No brainer guys , shop around , choose a good trusted private mechanic and save money .
Also I will share all my experiences with my Outlander because we are stronger together !
18227
18228
18229
 

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Hi, I am also a U.K. member of a facebook group called Mitsubishi 4n14 problems. The balance shaft drive coupling failure is an extreemly common problem with this engine world wide. It is probable that ALL unmodified engines (Diesel 2.268cc MIVEC 130KW) of this type are effected to some extent but not all owners realise. Some who have contacted Mitsubishi dealers report that Mitsubishi claim they are not aware of any such fault. However it appears that the original replacement parts that were available do NOT cure the problem and the fault reoccurs and so now the original parts are now longer available. A new design of parts is now being supplied at great expense. The most obvious symptom is a loud ticking noise from the sump area at idle. This general dies down when the engine accelerates. The ticking is sever wear of the drive coupling of the balance shaft module and mating components. If no action is taken the gear driving the shaft may also suffer tooth failure which will cause sever immediate engine failure. I consider this is potentialy a dangerous fault. Many people have removed the sump to gain acces and then removed the drive shaft coupling to the balance module. The balance module is left in place but no longer rotates. If not already damaged the drive gear and shaft can be left in place. It is reported there are no sever engine vibrations as a result of removing the balance shaft. I have not yet removed my coupling and consider this is a Mitsubishi engine design fault and should be a recall due to the risk of dangerous engine failure. I would be interested to hear about others with this engine fault
I own a 2014 mitsubishi outlander 3 2268 diesel with 90,000 miles, balance shaft went from making a noise to catastrophic failure almost immediately whilst on a motorway. Firstly a rattle followed by loud grinding noise and dashboard lighting up like a Christmas tree. It has been main dealer serviced since purchase. Not happy quote of £3500 to fix incl parts and labour. Happy to pursue Mitsubishi for a blatantly dangerous design flaw.
 

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I own 8yo Outlander 2013 diesel 120.000km in Norway. I have always serviced the car according to producer's recommendations. Just a few days ago independent mechanic identified the balance shaft problem. Contacted two Mitsubishi dealers. Both are asking for equivalent of ca 5000 Euro to replace the shaft with a new one. Not offering any responsibility or financial help. This is a very popular car in Norway. Since I started searching I found many posts in the Norwegian Mitsubishi club FB page related to this problem. It is a disgrace that Mitsubishi is not taking any responsibility or informing customers of the possible problem. I could have at least insured better.
I am thinking about finding a mechanic who could remove this part from me. I am a DIY guy but not when it comes to cars. Consequences can be quite bad.
Will post again when I have more info.
 

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Same here. Bought the car 2 years ago used, it is now with 120.000km and it's from 2013 , 2.2did and went to the mechanic that thought it was the dual mass flywheel and clutch and so I bought it. It cost me 700€ the part and 250€ to install. Then, the problem: it was the balance shaft that broke. Mitsubishi doesn't have a recall and gave me 2600€ just for the part.

Waiting on Mitsubishi's answer although after what I read here I'm very sad and sorry I've bought this car.

Don't know what to do. I was told the the removal might not be safe for the engine.

Can anyone tell me what happened to the engines without balance shaft, those who removed it?

Cheers,
Paulo
 

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Important update on my case with balance shaft issue. Through Outlander owner who experienced the same problem I managed to track down Mitsubishi dealer in Norway. This dealer is admitting the balance shaft is badly designed and the best fix is to remove it. They have already done it for a number of customers. My car is scheduled for this procedure next week. I am told it will take 2 hours and will cost about 500€.
The Outlander owner who informed me about this dealer has been driving fail free for 6 months now with the shaft removed.
For me this is a breakthrough. Before taking to this dealer I spoke to two others in my area. Both of them claimed this is a procedure which can cause big damage. They didn’t want to take any responsibility.
If not arranging for a recall of this engine at least Mitsubishi should accept the fix of removing the shaft as a safe one and instruct its dealerships to perform it.
 
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